Yea, im aware of the lift and tire thread just didnt want to read thru 19k posts! Dont have time for all that! lol

 

it really takes quite a bit of work.. and googling around half these questions is a good start since theres about 3.14159265359 threads on this

I had about $2000 into my axles and steering before it was worth a crap on 35" tires offroad and still streetable

 

I have rubicon express 4.5" coils, lower control arms, relocated track bar, extended brake lines and swaybar links. T case drop and pinion shims. 3" add a leaf and a 1.5" block. Basically all the wrong ways to do it but I run 33x12.50s on stock wheels with spidertrax 1.25" spacers. Works fine for me and I don't have trimmed fenders. Small amount of trimming needed to the front bumper and the rear of the front flare

 

Disregard my comment I thought you asked about 33 not 35

 

yeah. 33's are relatively easy to run. should have gears but no ones going to yell at you for not having them. you dont need all the upgrades in the world. but 35's are noticeably larger. 33x10.5 on alloys are the best size tire to run (being almost 17lbs lighter per tire than most 35's) on a mild wheeler or for someone who doesnt want to buy gears

 

If you are gonna DD this and want 35s, I hope you have the bank roll to pay for gas. Right now at 5.5" with 33x12.50s I get around 15 highway and 10 city. I have stock gears. It's not a big problem to run stock gears with them on the trail, but on the street, you'll see a huge drop in your mpg. I also have upgraded injectors and a 3" H1 style intake. Best bet is do your lift, sell the 35s and pick up some 31s. That way you'll be fully street able, and still functional offroad. If you are set on running a 33 or 35, add about $1000 or more into your budget for a regear whether its in the near future for 33s or instantly for 35s. Gear wise, you'll want minimum 4.10s for 33s and 4.56s for 35s. But for your offroading as you stated, you could get a way with a 3-4" lift and 31s and be perfect.

Edit:

Keep in mind that 35s would need better axles shafts to. 30 splines would be sufficient for 35s. Maybe even truss the front 30.

Just my $0.02.

 

I was doing about 17 hwy 14 city with 4.56 gears / Aw4 4.0 / 35's.. gears make a big difference

no need for 30spl D30. ever. in fact I was running a stock long side shaft with my 35's very successfully. the other side was chromo tho

 

I guess it depends on his plans. If he were to lock the front, I'd do the 30 spline upgrade. I just got a set of ARBs for a 30 front and 44 rear and I'll be buying the super 30 kit. Rear already has Alloys. But then again he said mild trails so I guess stock shafts will be ok

Edit:
If your an auto, and don't already have a tranny cooler, get one. They are much cheaper than a rebuilt tranny.

 

All you need is a half-dozen hockey pucks and some glue.

 

that is so much dollars for a dana turdy

if you are doing 30 spline for strength you are building the wrong axle. plain and simple

 

16 highway, 10 city here... 5.13s and 35s. but my jeep weighs over 5000 lbs fully loaded w/ gas and gear. i'm at the point where if i want more MPGs, i need more motor.

 

ya mine was very light. no bumpers, no cage, no doors, and alloy wheels. I only had 2x6 rockers and a little gear weighing me down

 

For 850 bucks, I got a 30/44 from a TJ, both have arbs and a compressor, I'm not going to complain. I'll truss the 30 and be done with it. I'm not going to a bigger tire until I got 60s.

 

oh hell yeah that's a steal of a deal then. I still dont see the use in getting the 30spl kit though. you're just making it impossible to do a trail repair. just keep it 27spl and save yourself the hassle. 27spl chromos are already over-beef for a D30

 

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