What size tires
Originally Posted by brookhart63
Either this guy doesn't know what he is talking about, or he did a axle/transmission/gear swap. I might be wrong but I thought the 3.07's came with the ax15 not the aw4.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 245
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From: GA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6
okay I am completely confused. i want like 32 inch tires or even 32.5 some where round there. do i have to change any gears? i heard that with 32 you dont have to trip at all. How hard it is to trim? Im in high school have a job of 20 hours a week and have to pay everything but the house i live in. Im just looking for best way to put 32.5 tires on my jeep but also have decent gas mileage.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Lubbock, Tx.
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I I were you, I would save for college or other schooling. 33's need more than your basic 3" lift to work correctly. I would grab a set of 31's (true 31's) and run those. You'll be paying less at the pump as well. You'll thank me
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 245
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From: GA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: V6
Im not going to collage first of all. I have a job at the sheriff center. All i need to know is what do i need to run 32s and not trim anything. do i need new gears? what exactly do i need i dont want 31 i want 32 and half tell yeah truth
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
3" lift with bumps and trimming would be ideal IMO, 4.5" with trimming and bumps is good with 33's. but no trimming then 32's and 4.5". lots of info on this in the build section. it really comes down to how much work you want to do, cutting, bump stopping, researching....
as far as gearing goes... I don't think its worth going to 4.10's. I would wait to re-gear for 33's+ just my 2 cents.
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
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From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
with out trimming, a 4.5" lift and bump stops. even with a 4.5" lift I would rub with 32's. the correct back spacing is key as well, the less lift the more bump stop. If you don't want a trial/error setup go with 4.5" lift and 4" BS
3" lift with bumps and trimming would be ideal IMO, 4.5" with trimming and bumps is good with 33's. but no trimming then 32's and 4.5". lots of info on this in the build section. it really comes down to how much work you want to do, cutting, bump stopping, researching....
as far as gearing goes... I don't think its worth going to 4.10's. I would wait to re-gear for 33's+ just my 2 cents.
3" lift with bumps and trimming would be ideal IMO, 4.5" with trimming and bumps is good with 33's. but no trimming then 32's and 4.5". lots of info on this in the build section. it really comes down to how much work you want to do, cutting, bump stopping, researching....
as far as gearing goes... I don't think its worth going to 4.10's. I would wait to re-gear for 33's+ just my 2 cents.
Better or worse.....didn't quite understand much about BS.
Thx....thought op might like to know as well .
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Back spacing is the distance from the hub mounting face on the wheel to the inner lip.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 692
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From: Tempe, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 242
x2, this will most likely be the biggest you can fit without trimming and or lifting it again.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 692
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From: Tempe, AZ
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 242
try recalculating the miles driven vs the miles clocked on the odometer by doing this. (current tire diameter/stock tire diameter) x miles clocked.
...okay im done thread jacking, good luck murfanator.
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L


