My question is about what else to replace, upgrade while installing a lift kit. Buying an expensive lift kit doesn't rebuild your suspension.

Okay, so I bought a lift kit, it comes with control arms, leaf springs, shocks, shackles... the works. But there are a lot of suspension parts not included with any lift kits. I have added these to my list:
UCA axle side bushings
Hardware for leaf springs, shackles and control arms
Bump stops; front stock, adjustable that mount to the front axle and rear extended
Flag nuts for the upper rear shock bolts because this is a common problem
Sway bar bushings

I think this should get me riding and handling like new again. But while I am on my back under the XJ I want to get it all done...

Anything else you guys recommend? steering and drivetrain will be after the lift install.

How much lift?

4" short arm premium kit from Iron Rock,
I think I have about everything that moves covered, haha!

steering, ball joints, u joints, SYE will all come later. focusing on the suspension right now. No rock crawling in my future, but was thinking about the JCR uni-body kit... on second thought I should hold off on that until the front bumper is chosen, I think there is some overlap with aftermarket front bumpers tying in the the uni body in that area and may be a waste of coin.

Is your rear main seal/oil pan leaking? If so, you might as well remove the front axle while doing the suspension upgrade so you can have easier access to those parts. Just a thought.

I like to get all new hardware from BelMetric & BoltDepot. Download your FSM for fastener size and pitch. Rear Sway Bar Links and axle side bushings would be smart to replace, MOOG K750132 & QUICK STEER K3160. Scotch Brite pads and some flat black Rustoleum on hand for rust. If your brakes need work, this would be a good time to address that. The most important of all would be alignment. Jeep forums don't need anymore death wobble/poor steering after lift threads. Get a digital angle finder, 2 Measuring tapes, and 2 straight edges (32" long & drilled to lug pattern). Center your axle, straighten the steering wheel and set caster & toe correctly the first time.

You Tube

You Tube

Rear main seal, excellent idea! It's easier to drop the oil pan when the axle is out. I will do the front while I'm at it.

Yes, will do the best I can on the alignment, I plan to do some homework here. With adjustable control arms I know I need to start with recommended lengths, but need to tweak for wheel base, clearances and caster.
Thanks for the hardware sites and videos, excellent info. But I have to ask... what is FSM? factory service manual? Is there a PDF linked somewhere? that would be sweet!

Alignment is pretty simple. You just have to have the right tools. Grainger carries flat stock at great prices https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...ar-Stock-2EYW7 . I like this angle finder . I should have said parts list, not FSM. The FSM is loaded with specs and repair instructions. The parts list has all of the part numbers and most fastener sizes.

10-4, mine is a 91 but still grabbing this for reference. Thank you!
did a search and found the 91-93,

I'd check ball joints before going ahead and running what you have.


I agree oil pan but isn't a deal breaker you can do oil pan and main when you do long arms.

at 4" steeringdrag link and track bar can be improved. Do tons of research here before touching either.

You can bokt on all lift stuff but screw the drag link and track bar and youl think you ruined your jeep


Pay attention to how bump stop looks in coils set new arms to match. Also check castor before lift with a cheap angle finder on top of one ball joint.. set arms to match that number

You can get by foing your own alignment oince already is located straight on the frame its then just toe and castor.


Good luck read lots

I would definitely recommend addressing the drive shaft/ rear pinion angle, as you'll almost certainly have driveline vibrations if you dont do something. SYE is definitely the way to go, but a t case drop could get you by for a little while. Other than that, extended rear break lines, and an adjustable track bar.

Agreed. Sye and rear shaft shouldn’t be put off. Anything over 3” a tcase drop just won’t work.

Track bar and steering, I have that covered. I didnt take a castor reading before taking it apart, that may come back and bite me... I do have upper and lower adjustable arms, so hopefully I can get that sorted quickly.

I was going to try the transfer case drop, but think I will go ahead and do the SYE and drive shaft while it's half way torn apart and on stands.
So about pinion angles. If I stay around 4-4.5" of lift, from what I have read, seems a SYE and driveshaft should fix any vibrations, no pinion shims needed. Sound right? I know every Jeep is different but this should be the normal.

Dang XJ is like a BOAT (break out another thousand) haha, not quite that bad...

You won’t have a problem with caster/pinion angle. Unless you have double adjustable uppers you’ll have to take them off at the axle side a couple times to get the angle you want anyway. That’s my experience atleast. As for the rear you will need shims to get your pinion angle up. It has to be pointing directly at the tcase output shaft. There are plenty of threads on how to set that up. If the driveshaft company you go with requires a measurement for length, follow their directions. Remember if you change to a different rear axle your driveshaft length is effected. You probably know this but just a reminder to think down the road a bit. You’ll need a speedo gear to.

Yes, swapped from D35 to 8-1/4" so new shaft required anyway. Instead of JY swap, I'll go ahead and do the SYE and custom shaft. Most of these appear to be CV type or double cardan style shafts. I'll do my homework on this, I know a double cardan gets set up different from a stock type u-joint driveshaft and will need shims for sure. I'll get it all together and the driveshaft will probably be the last thing...

speedo gear on order, brown truck should bring it this week.

BTW. I noticed the lift you’re installing has add a leaves. Are your springs in good shape at this point? If they are you should be ok for awhile. If you do your research, you won’t have a problem with your drive shaft and pinion angle in the rear. The only problems I’ve had was when I assumed something and didn’t research enough. By JY swap are you referring to using a front driveshaft in the rear? It may be a more affordable option at first if it’ll work. I didn’t take that route so I don’t know much about it. My XJ is my DD and I just went with a custom driveshaft. Opinions differ on that topic it seems.