What is the best locker
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 79
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From: alberta
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I got an arb locker already in an 8.25 with compressor and wiring for 800. Simple axle swap and I love the flip of a switch action. I wouldn't want to half *** a front locker so one day soon I'll go for an arb front.
Just comes down to how much you want to spend to be honest. 900 for an arb but then cost of air hose, switches/compressor/wiring. And install.
Just comes down to how much you want to spend to be honest. 900 for an arb but then cost of air hose, switches/compressor/wiring. And install.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,529
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From: somewhere Gee oh Dee cant find me...
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 30
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From: Riverside, CA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you drive in the snow and it is your daily diver Then I would go with select-able for sure. ARB is the best in my book but there aren't many out there that that dont work well.
If you live in icy/snowy areas of the country and your rig is dual purpose, I recommend the ARB
If you live in the south or your rig is a trail rig only I recommend a full case locker for the front (Detroit) due the fact that stock D-30 carriers are weak.
For the rear I recommend a full case as well but I have had good luck with the Aussie. The 8.25 carrier is strong and holds up well to a lunch box locker.
If you live in the south or your rig is a trail rig only I recommend a full case locker for the front (Detroit) due the fact that stock D-30 carriers are weak.
For the rear I recommend a full case as well but I have had good luck with the Aussie. The 8.25 carrier is strong and holds up well to a lunch box locker.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
havent heard a single bad thing about the E's
they are cheaper and easier to install I believe. and you dont need a compressor just a battery
theyve got my vote check it out
(these links were given to my by a vendor)
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=88001
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=87997
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
instead of thinking locker you could go limited slip. yeah the clutch packs wear out but they are rebuildable, hookup in about an eighth to a quarter turn. had an Aubern one loved it.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,381
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From: EAFB, SD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Ive been doing a lot of research on this matter too
havent heard a single bad thing about the E's
they are cheaper and easier to install I believe. and you dont need a compressor just a battery
theyve got my vote check it out
(these links were given to my by a vendor)
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=88001
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=87997
havent heard a single bad thing about the E's
they are cheaper and easier to install I believe. and you dont need a compressor just a battery
theyve got my vote check it out
(these links were given to my by a vendor)
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=88001
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=87997
Its not the same. Clutch packs suck dealing with an LSD is more pain than its worth in an on/offroad vehicle. Pick a wheel up with the LSD and it still spins. That being said you can stand on the brakes and gas and get some lockup, but no matter what you do its still just a LS.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I've been dd mine welded for almost a year now. Has about 7k miles on it like that and a ton of abuse mud racing and wheelin. It's not the greatest thing ever in parking lots but really doesn't bother me. The looks you get crack me up. Everything from women and children running away to guys that know what the deal is giving you thumbs up. Helps a ton to keep 20+ psi in the tires on the street, let's them slide a lot easier. The wear on the tires isn't as bad as you would think. My km2s have 6 or 7k on them as well and look really good, especially considering I do mostly city driving with less than 15 psi in them cause I'm too lazy to air up. The only time I don't like it is when there's a very small amount of snow on the road and there's bare spots and slippery spots. When the traction is that uneven it tends to pull around a little in 4wd, but if you leave it in 2 it goes just fine. If I had more money than I knew what to do with, yea, I'd probably put selectables in it front and rear. But it works mint for me.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 611
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX/ Atlanta, GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I plan to go either Detroit locker in the rear because its strong as nails. and an EATON E-LOCKER up front or maybe E-LOCKERS all around. I don't see why everyone always jumps to ARB. It doesn't really make sense to me. why would you want to complicate things so much as to send an airline into your deferential housing and run compressors and lines all through your cab when you would simply run two wires from a switch to a TINY hole in your dif and have a just as reliable if not more reliable locker. also if it breaks..which most select able lockers will break a line or cable....it is SUPER easy to test and replace!
I read frank z talk about this once and came up with the really good point about the replacing electric cable.
Also there is a reason LANDROVER and the POWERWAGONS have electric lockers. and they are cheaper.
But to answer your question.....go with select-able or Detroit if you have the $.
I read frank z talk about this once and came up with the really good point about the replacing electric cable.
Also there is a reason LANDROVER and the POWERWAGONS have electric lockers. and they are cheaper.
But to answer your question.....go with select-able or Detroit if you have the $.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I've been dd mine welded for almost a year now. Has about 7k miles on it like that and a ton of abuse mud racing and wheelin. It's not the greatest thing ever in parking lots but really doesn't bother me. The looks you get crack me up. Everything from women and children running away to guys that know what the deal is giving you thumbs up. Helps a ton to keep 20+ psi in the tires on the street, let's them slide a lot easier. The wear on the tires isn't as bad as you would think. My km2s have 6 or 7k on them as well and look really good, especially considering I do mostly city driving with less than 15 psi in them cause I'm too lazy to air up. The only time I don't like it is when there's a very small amount of snow on the road and there's bare spots and slippery spots. When the traction is that uneven it tends to pull around a little in 4wd, but if you leave it in 2 it goes just fine. If I had more money than I knew what to do with, yea, I'd probably put selectables in it front and rear. But it works mint for me.
Yesterday. But some people can deal with things that others can't. I really don't care how a vehicle drives down the road, I can adapt and drive it. As long as it performs well for what it's built for.
Last edited by ClaytonXJ; Dec 12, 2011 at 05:41 PM.


