In my case both bolt heads snapped with very little torque...so I had to drill them out and retap to 7/16". Not a big deal if you have Cobalt bits, but it did stress me out for 30 minutes until I fixed it. lol

 

Okay, this paired with the thread title, just made me lose my ****, LMFAO!!!

 

OK guys, double-nutting worked on the left side and I got that stud out, but no dice on the right side, stud will NOT come out. Jammed the nuts together so hard the threads started stripping. I considered trying vice grips, but that would totally bugger the threads up then I'd be hosed. Any other clever ideas on how to get that stud out of there? I'd rather not "Dexy" it and have to drill and re-tap.

 

I was wondering how it was gonna go, both of mine were a PITA

My suggestion is a good penetrant, soak, heat, vibe, and repeat until it works loose. If that doesn't work, be prepared to drill, tap and all that good stuff. I ended up remounting a nut flush with the rail and welded in. Good luck.

 

LOL You might try heat on it...it's something I didn't try and probably should have.

 

glad ya got a laugh out of it........

here's one for ya from work.....I learned that day if you are gonna email a problem to the engineers, make sure it is worded in an appropriate manner for company wide distribution, not using any slang terms...engineers are lazy !!


We were having issues with a large motor (440 vac, 450 hp) not working correctly and tripping off line from time to time. I went to check it out, and see if the problem was obvious (I am a mechanic, not an electrician).

Well, at work, the connection box where the power feeds into the motor is commonly called a 'peckerhead', and in this case, it was very hot, so much so you could not touch it. Turns out there was a loose ground wire in it that was causing the problem.

Well, I emailed the engineers and said "the motor keeps getting too hot and overheating, and the peckerhead is too hot to touch".

Well, in the report they sent out for review for a solution, they literally cut & pasted my email........and of course, they put my name in as the POC. When my boss read it, he laughed so loud people came from all over the shop to see what was so funny...and I got at least 25 calls from people I know ribbing me about it...one of whom was my bosses bosses boss........




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Back to the original post tho.........I didn't have any issues with mine....but I would recommend wd-40ing them every day for a few days prior to attempts to remove if you think you will have an issue

I believe there is enough metal in the welded nut to tap them the next size up tho...I have heard of people successfully doing that.

Personally, since I have the tool, I'd just drill them out to 1/2" and put in a steel nut-sert/riv-nut & be done with it.

When I put on my frame stiffeners, I will be in all likelihood putting a custom made nut strip in the place of the factory welded in nuts somehow until I replace the cross member completely.




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So all weird noises and "thump thump thumps" seem to have gone away on their own. Maybe things just settled into each other and any driveline misalignment is now being tolerated. But, the fact that it started out with the noise and vibration has me thinking it's on the margin.

But the Kidlett and I are taking Frank II on a road trip up to the cabin this weekend, with a bit of mild wheeling on the back roads. When we get back, I'll decide whether I want to tackle the stuck stud and do the TC drop or not. If I do decide to do the drop, I'm thinking of grinding flats onto the stud and seeing if I can free it with a wrench or vice grips, after of course soaking, heat, tapping etc. I figure I've got a 50% chance of snapping it off, in which case I break out the good drill bits and teach the kid even more new words!