I know this probably get's beaten to death, but I figured it'd be worth asking.
I'm not really final on my build plan yet. I know I have to regear and all that no matter what due to my wimpy little 3.07's, however I'm just wondering exactly how big I need to go on my upgrades?
I will not be going over a 33" tire. Period. I refuse, since it is my daily driver. Most likely, it will be a 31" tire going on, but I do want to be able to wheel it without worrying about breaking things.
What are your thoughts on what the axles would need? I'm planning on probably lincoln locking the rear and throwing an aussie up front.
I've been looking for chromos for the 8.25, and these are the only one's I've found. Would they be good at all?
http://www.driveoffroad.com/axle/axl...loy-usa-21118/
I'm not really final on my build plan yet. I know I have to regear and all that no matter what due to my wimpy little 3.07's, however I'm just wondering exactly how big I need to go on my upgrades?
I will not be going over a 33" tire. Period. I refuse, since it is my daily driver. Most likely, it will be a 31" tire going on, but I do want to be able to wheel it without worrying about breaking things.
What are your thoughts on what the axles would need? I'm planning on probably lincoln locking the rear and throwing an aussie up front.
I've been looking for chromos for the 8.25, and these are the only one's I've found. Would they be good at all?
http://www.driveoffroad.com/axle/axl...loy-usa-21118/
Member
truss it, weld the pumpkin to the tubes, get those axle shafts, a rebuild kit, regear, weld it or lock it, and call it good.
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Engine, Tranny, Axles?
1997 Jeep CherokeeOriginally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Year, make, and model?Engine, Tranny, Axles?
4.0L AX-15 HPD30 27-spline C8.25 29-Spline
Completely missed the product on your site, I was just looking at your shop yesterday.
CF Veteran
No worries.
Unless you or the PO swapped axles, you'll have a 29 spline 8.25" axle.
By using www.grimmjeeper.com and doing a side by side comparison of various gear sizes you'll find that 4.11 gears and a 33 tire will be the best otion. It will keep your speed/RPM the closest to stock performance.
Welding the rear is an option, but not one I'd ever do on a DD. A PowerTrax NoSlip out back is a great option. Outstanding road manners and great performance off-road.
Unless you or the PO swapped axles, you'll have a 29 spline 8.25" axle.
By using www.grimmjeeper.com and doing a side by side comparison of various gear sizes you'll find that 4.11 gears and a 33 tire will be the best otion. It will keep your speed/RPM the closest to stock performance.
Welding the rear is an option, but not one I'd ever do on a DD. A PowerTrax NoSlip out back is a great option. Outstanding road manners and great performance off-road.
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Unless you or the PO swapped axles, you'll have a 29 spline 8.25" axle.
By using www.grimmjeeper.com and doing a side by side comparison of various gear sizes you'll find that 4.11 gears and a 33 tire will be the best otion. It will keep your speed/RPM the closest to stock performance.
Welding the rear is an option, but not one I'd ever do on a DD. A PowerTrax NoSlip out back is a great option. Outstanding road manners and great performance off-road.
4.11's even with the 5-speed?Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
No worries.Unless you or the PO swapped axles, you'll have a 29 spline 8.25" axle.
By using www.grimmjeeper.com and doing a side by side comparison of various gear sizes you'll find that 4.11 gears and a 33 tire will be the best otion. It will keep your speed/RPM the closest to stock performance.
Welding the rear is an option, but not one I'd ever do on a DD. A PowerTrax NoSlip out back is a great option. Outstanding road manners and great performance off-road.
CF Veteran
Yes, especially with a 5-speed.
Keep in mind that auto tranny's have a different final drive ratio and therefore require a taller set of gears at the axles than a manual tranny equipped rig.
Click on the link I provided and play around with the various options available via the pulldown menus. It's a great tool for folks looking for the correct R&P sets for their rig.
Keep in mind that auto tranny's have a different final drive ratio and therefore require a taller set of gears at the axles than a manual tranny equipped rig.
Click on the link I provided and play around with the various options available via the pulldown menus. It's a great tool for folks looking for the correct R&P sets for their rig.
Seasoned Member
An AW-4 has a 0.75:1 overdrive and the AX-15 has a 0.79:1 fifth gear. 1st gear is where you'll notice the difference between the 2, not 5th/overdrive. You'll love 31's with 4.10s in the axles. 33s will be bearable with 4.10s. If you're only going to 33s at most, you should have no problems with the factory HP30 and 29 spline 8.25. You might want to spend that money elsewhere...
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Yeah, I know it'd be overkill, but I really just want to do it right if I'm gonna do it at all. Maybe not all at once, but I'd like to have a list of what I want/need. Originally Posted by MWildmann
An AW-4 has a 0.75:1 overdrive and the AX-15 has a 0.79:1 fifth gear. 1st gear is where you'll notice the difference between the 2, not 5th/overdrive. You'll love 31's with 4.10s in the axles. 33s will be bearable with 4.10s. If you're only going to 33s at most, you should have no problems with the factory HP30 and 29 spline 8.25. You might want to spend that money elsewhere...
I like to over-build, lol.
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You think the stock shafts would be fine with 33's and the rear welded or locked? How about the front?Originally Posted by cdawall
Don't need chromo's out back for 33's...
I've never dealt with the XJ rear, but I've broken a shaft in a D35 (I know it's weaker) on a 33x10.5 with an open diff.
CF Veteran
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It depends on the driver, the rig, and the terrain. Blanket statements like this don't help the OP.Originally Posted by cdawall
Don't need chromo's out back for 33's...
CF Veteran
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I've never dealt with the XJ rear, but I've broken a shaft in a D35 (I know it's weaker) on a 33x10.5 with an open diff.
With a locker you should be fine plenty of people run that combination without breaking shafts. If you smoked a D35 open on 33X10.50 I don't know how I manage to make mine last with 33X12.50 bias plys which weigh more than most radial 35s. For the front locked I would bump up too chromo shafts or carry spares. Either way carry spares.Originally Posted by -Rudy-
You think the stock shafts would be fine with 33's and the rear welded or locked? How about the front?I've never dealt with the XJ rear, but I've broken a shaft in a D35 (I know it's weaker) on a 33x10.5 with an open diff.
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Correct the 8.25" will never last I recommend 1-tons all around. In fact those break as well might want to look into 2.5 tons. Most people can use an 8.25 without breakage and stock shafts. As has been said in other threads it is about as strong as a D44 and F8.8 yet no one recommends chromo shafts in either of those for locked 33's. A 29 spline 8.25" is plenty strong for those small tires. Assuming the OP doesn't use his right foot as a replacement for driving ability.Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
It depends on the driver, the rig, and the terrain. Blanket statements like this don't help the OP.
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Correct the 8.25" will never last I recommend 1-tons all around. In fact those break as well might want to look into 2.5 tons. Most people can use an 8.25 without breakage and stock shafts. As has been said in other threads it is about as strong as a D44 and F8.8 yet no one recommends chromo shafts in either of those for locked 33's. A 29 spline 8.25" is plenty strong for those small tires. Assuming the OP doesn't use his right foot as a replacement for driving ability.
Uphill + Snow + Spinning + One wheel finally catching hard = Seeya Originally Posted by cdawall
With a locker you should be fine plenty of people run that combination without breaking shafts. If you smoked a D35 open on 33X10.50 I don't know how I manage to make mine last with 33X12.50 bias plys which weigh more than most radial 35s. For the front locked I would bump up too chromo shafts or carry spares. Either way carry spares.Correct the 8.25" will never last I recommend 1-tons all around. In fact those break as well might want to look into 2.5 tons. Most people can use an 8.25 without breakage and stock shafts. As has been said in other threads it is about as strong as a D44 and F8.8 yet no one recommends chromo shafts in either of those for locked 33's. A 29 spline 8.25" is plenty strong for those small tires. Assuming the OP doesn't use his right foot as a replacement for driving ability.
I threw some chromos in it and never had an issue again.
I don't have a heavy foot when I'm offroad, but some situations occur and you never know what'll happen. I've ripped control arm mounts off, twisted stock arms, unseated springs, broken shafts, etc. It comes with the territory.
CF Veteran
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You read a lot more into my reply than what I actually posted.Originally Posted by cdawall
Correct the 8.25" will never last I recommend 1-tons all around. In fact those break as well might want to look into 2.5 tons. Most people can use an 8.25 without breakage and stock shafts. As has been said in other threads it is about as strong as a D44 and F8.8 yet no one recommends chromo shafts in either of those for locked 33's. A 29 spline 8.25" is plenty strong for those small tires. Assuming the OP doesn't use his right foot as a replacement for driving ability.