upgrading alternator - is it worth it?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
From: spring grove il
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
If your gonna isolate a battery I'd do it all at once I wasted so much cable when I finally installed an isolater but now my accessories run on there own battery and I can self jump.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 279
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From: Leesburg GA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
thats what i was thinking, iv run dual batteries on fourwheelers and side by sides and we ran all assc. of second battery and used the other battery just for starting using an isolator, but on my little center console i ran a battery selector switch, but they are kind of bulky so on my jeep i was just going to use a solid state isolator, run 2 die hard batteries, upgrade the cables, and i guess just get another stock alternator.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 23
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I of course would upgrade my cables if i upgrade the alternator -
correct me if im wrong but it seems like most of yall are saying that it is better to just replace it with a stock alternator and to upgrade the cables at the same time and to add a secondary battery, that way if i did mess up another alternator it is easy to find a replacement, and i wont be out as much $. So - i would get more benifit from replacing cables and adding secondary battery (id be running dual DIE HARD MARINE PLATINUM batteries / same as an ODYSSEY battery) and running a stock alternator - correct?
correct me if im wrong but it seems like most of yall are saying that it is better to just replace it with a stock alternator and to upgrade the cables at the same time and to add a secondary battery, that way if i did mess up another alternator it is easy to find a replacement, and i wont be out as much $. So - i would get more benifit from replacing cables and adding secondary battery (id be running dual DIE HARD MARINE PLATINUM batteries / same as an ODYSSEY battery) and running a stock alternator - correct?
The advantage to using a larger-gage conductor is twofold:
- Reduced conductor loss (smaller-gage wires have a higher intrinsic resistance.)
- Greater ampacity in the larger conductor (this makes the system more efficient, allows for something closer to full system voltage at the consumer, and allows for a greater duty cycle at full output.)
But, really, how much do you need? What do you plan on doing? It's amazing how many people I end up talking out of getting 1AWG wire, once we've had a chance to discuss their needs (some end up getting 1AWG anyhow when they don't need to - there's only so much convincing I can do.)
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 83
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From: Burnaby B.C.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 L
Upgraded my cables to 4AWG (KWIP
) over the winter.
First things I noticed is no more light flickering when the fan came on, steadier amp output, and quicker starting. I was working in rainy Northern BC, so it was wipers on full, headlights on high, defroster on high, PIAA fogs on 75% of the time, and the charging gauge doesn't move off 13.5V now, with the same old stock alternator.
Of course I'm not idling and running a winch at the same time..
Just saying that changing out the cables seems to make my stock charging system work better.
Thanks Jon.
) over the winter.First things I noticed is no more light flickering when the fan came on, steadier amp output, and quicker starting. I was working in rainy Northern BC, so it was wipers on full, headlights on high, defroster on high, PIAA fogs on 75% of the time, and the charging gauge doesn't move off 13.5V now, with the same old stock alternator.
Of course I'm not idling and running a winch at the same time..
Just saying that changing out the cables seems to make my stock charging system work better.
Thanks Jon.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Upgraded my cables to 4AWG (KWIP) over the winter.
First things I noticed is no more light flickering when the fan came on, steadier amp output, and quicker starting. I was working in rainy Northern BC, so it was wipers on full, headlights on high, defroster on high, PIAA fogs on 75% of the time, and the charging gauge doesn't move off 13.5V now, with the same old stock alternator.
Of course I'm not idling and running a winch at the same time..
Just saying that changing out the cables seems to make my stock charging system work better.
Thanks Jon.
) over the winter.First things I noticed is no more light flickering when the fan came on, steadier amp output, and quicker starting. I was working in rainy Northern BC, so it was wipers on full, headlights on high, defroster on high, PIAA fogs on 75% of the time, and the charging gauge doesn't move off 13.5V now, with the same old stock alternator.
Of course I'm not idling and running a winch at the same time..
Just saying that changing out the cables seems to make my stock charging system work better.
Thanks Jon.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Leesburg GA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
well my plans are to have enough reliable power in the backwoods to run offroad lights, on board air, winch or even an onboard welder (but like i said before, never all at once), so i guess ill start with cables and go from there.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 23
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
And, I have yet to meet a single alternator that can reliably feed a winch on its own!
Better suggestion? Get a battery with a very deep reserve capacity (listed as "RC," and expressed in Ampere-hours, or "A-h,") since that's where your deep draw will come from. If you expect to run long pulls, long-term OBA, or do a lot with the OBW, then a deep-cycle with high energy density and an isolator will probably do more for you than an upgraded alternator.
YES, you will need an isolator for that sort of thing - you don't want to knock down your starting battery! Also, running an isolator lets you run whatever sort of auxiliary battery you like (even if you decide to go with several en banc later, which requires matching type, rating, & age,) without worrying about "dueling batteries" with the charge off.
The alternator may be upgraded later, if you find you're drawing heavily on the auxiliary battery bank - which will allow for more rapid charge after use.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Insights gained in a five year old Thread. Still, despite 12V electrical being “simple”, the amount of Dis-information makes (learning) a Real CHORE.
My ‘96 XJ is undergoing a transformation ... into my “home”, so I’m adding 12V Fridge, footwell water tank, Sine Inverter, and .... ?
Seems clear that a 2nd “House” battery is in order. Isolating is first Challenge. Some go cheap and just use a Solenoid to keep both batteries charged. Not my Plan. Others go VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) .... Better. Next “up” is a DC-DC Charger, and top of the heap is a Smart Battery Mgmt device.
All Very Confusing !
I Definitely will increase appropriate wires, that part is easy. Considering the Durango Alt. The Deep Cycle AGM “House” battery will reside in the stock tray. The “Cranking” battery will be sized DOWN, while keeping CCAs, and mounted underneath by frame rails (in enclosure).
So MY Dilemma is: which device to ensure batteries are maintained while living ‘off grid’ .... VSR, DC-DC, Smart Mgmt .... ? There is a Significant cost range. I do Not want to manually isolate batteries with a two way (dash) switch. Solar may be in future, and I have to anticipate NOT having access to “shore” power (110VAC).
Last, how do I ensure that my Durango (or even stock) Alternator PROPERLY maintains the Deep Cycle “House” battery, which has a different charging ‘profile’, AND size 51 “Cranking” battery ?
Thanks, I know it was long .....
My ‘96 XJ is undergoing a transformation ... into my “home”, so I’m adding 12V Fridge, footwell water tank, Sine Inverter, and .... ?
Seems clear that a 2nd “House” battery is in order. Isolating is first Challenge. Some go cheap and just use a Solenoid to keep both batteries charged. Not my Plan. Others go VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay) .... Better. Next “up” is a DC-DC Charger, and top of the heap is a Smart Battery Mgmt device.
All Very Confusing !
I Definitely will increase appropriate wires, that part is easy. Considering the Durango Alt. The Deep Cycle AGM “House” battery will reside in the stock tray. The “Cranking” battery will be sized DOWN, while keeping CCAs, and mounted underneath by frame rails (in enclosure).
So MY Dilemma is: which device to ensure batteries are maintained while living ‘off grid’ .... VSR, DC-DC, Smart Mgmt .... ? There is a Significant cost range. I do Not want to manually isolate batteries with a two way (dash) switch. Solar may be in future, and I have to anticipate NOT having access to “shore” power (110VAC).
Last, how do I ensure that my Durango (or even stock) Alternator PROPERLY maintains the Deep Cycle “House” battery, which has a different charging ‘profile’, AND size 51 “Cranking” battery ?
Thanks, I know it was long .....
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
With a DC fridge, you will want some sort of charging system other than the alternator. With an AC/DC fridge you have some more options
Onboard 120v charger for "ship to shore" hookup, a 60+ AH battery (should allow it to run overnight), and solar is definitely possible. But at the same time, I have seen figures that running the engine 15-20 minutes will charge a deep cycle more than a ~100w panel can with 8hrs of sun. So you will need to do some math to figure out what capacity you need for whatever accessories you are running
Onboard 120v charger for "ship to shore" hookup, a 60+ AH battery (should allow it to run overnight), and solar is definitely possible. But at the same time, I have seen figures that running the engine 15-20 minutes will charge a deep cycle more than a ~100w panel can with 8hrs of sun. So you will need to do some math to figure out what capacity you need for whatever accessories you are running
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