upcoming mods on my first cherokee
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 1
From: CT
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight six
Word to the wise;
Before you do any modifications make sure everything is mechanically/structurally/electrically sound. I know you did this (or I hope you did) before purchase, but you don't want to end up in a bottomless pit. Check everything and spend your money where it counts (upgrades don't matter if the engine don't run) i.e bearings,seals,oil change,fluids,driveline,wiring, grounds etc.
Especially your bearings. The PO of my jeep had shot wheel bearings and because of it took the front tires down to half tread before the back even lost any at all. Waste of money, time, and money, oh and did I mention money?
Hope all goes well and goo luck with your build, sounds like your done your research and should be a really sharp rig. Pics are very popular on the forum and often help with diagnosing problems (should you have any). Cheers!
Before you do any modifications make sure everything is mechanically/structurally/electrically sound. I know you did this (or I hope you did) before purchase, but you don't want to end up in a bottomless pit. Check everything and spend your money where it counts (upgrades don't matter if the engine don't run) i.e bearings,seals,oil change,fluids,driveline,wiring, grounds etc.
Especially your bearings. The PO of my jeep had shot wheel bearings and because of it took the front tires down to half tread before the back even lost any at all. Waste of money, time, and money, oh and did I mention money?
Hope all goes well and goo luck with your build, sounds like your done your research and should be a really sharp rig. Pics are very popular on the forum and often help with diagnosing problems (should you have any). Cheers!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Word to the wise;
Before you do any modifications make sure everything is mechanically/structurally/electrically sound. I know you did this (or I hope you did) before purchase, but you don't want to end up in a bottomless pit. Check everything and spend your money where it counts (upgrades don't matter if the engine don't run) i.e bearings,seals,oil change,fluids,driveline,wiring, grounds etc.
Especially your bearings. The PO of my jeep had shot wheel bearings and because of it took the front tires down to half tread before the back even lost any at all. Waste of money, time, and money, oh and did I mention money?
Hope all goes well and goo luck with your build, sounds like your done your research and should be a really sharp rig. Pics are very popular on the forum and often help with diagnosing problems (should you have any). Cheers!
Before you do any modifications make sure everything is mechanically/structurally/electrically sound. I know you did this (or I hope you did) before purchase, but you don't want to end up in a bottomless pit. Check everything and spend your money where it counts (upgrades don't matter if the engine don't run) i.e bearings,seals,oil change,fluids,driveline,wiring, grounds etc.
Especially your bearings. The PO of my jeep had shot wheel bearings and because of it took the front tires down to half tread before the back even lost any at all. Waste of money, time, and money, oh and did I mention money?
Hope all goes well and goo luck with your build, sounds like your done your research and should be a really sharp rig. Pics are very popular on the forum and often help with diagnosing problems (should you have any). Cheers!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Sorry that I'm too lazy to completely reorder your list, but the top 3 items you're going to need right with the lift are the extended brake lines, SYE, and probably sway bar endlinks (you'll want the quick disconnect kind).
Anyways. Here's my opinions on your list.
1. Don't forget that with an SYE, you need a double-cardan style driveshaft. A front driveshaft works well for the rear with this setup. Also make sure that you have a 231 transfer case. Not sure? Does your 4x4 shifter have a FULL TIME option? If so, you have a 242 case and your options for SYE will be limited to a hack-n-tap.
2. This depends on your budget. The Rock Krawler is going to be a better kit, I know 2 guys running it. I myself got the IRO due to budget concerns, and I'm happy with it. The only issue I have with it is that the bracket side bolt likes to come loose. I double-nutted it to prevent this. Also had to make a custom nut strip for the axle side.
3. As stated, no point in upgrading the sway bar, just the end links. JKS are known to be the best. You'll want quick-disconnect kind if you'll be wheeling. I'd assume you'd like to keep the sway bar being a DD, but many people run without the swaybar (myself included) without issue. Mine isn't a DD though, either. Also you'll want to take heed of your state's inspection laws as many will require this.
4. The ZJ Tie Rod is a plug-and-play upgrade. Took me maybe an hour to install. Highly recommend it, and cheap way to beef up your steering!
5. Wouldn't hurt! If you have the cash leftover for it, go for it.
6. These are of utmost importance. Get these before installing your lift.
7. & 8. Worry about these items once you have all the other stuff done and have some experience with your Jeep so you have a better idea of what you'll need.
9. Stock drag link will be fine with the ZJ setup. If you're looking at 1-ton steering, those kits replace the whole works. I don't think you should be looking at 1-tons though if it's a DD and you don't do any serious wheeling.
10. Should be included with your Zone kit.
11. Don't worry about it.
Anyways. Here's my opinions on your list.
1. Don't forget that with an SYE, you need a double-cardan style driveshaft. A front driveshaft works well for the rear with this setup. Also make sure that you have a 231 transfer case. Not sure? Does your 4x4 shifter have a FULL TIME option? If so, you have a 242 case and your options for SYE will be limited to a hack-n-tap.
2. This depends on your budget. The Rock Krawler is going to be a better kit, I know 2 guys running it. I myself got the IRO due to budget concerns, and I'm happy with it. The only issue I have with it is that the bracket side bolt likes to come loose. I double-nutted it to prevent this. Also had to make a custom nut strip for the axle side.
3. As stated, no point in upgrading the sway bar, just the end links. JKS are known to be the best. You'll want quick-disconnect kind if you'll be wheeling. I'd assume you'd like to keep the sway bar being a DD, but many people run without the swaybar (myself included) without issue. Mine isn't a DD though, either. Also you'll want to take heed of your state's inspection laws as many will require this.
4. The ZJ Tie Rod is a plug-and-play upgrade. Took me maybe an hour to install. Highly recommend it, and cheap way to beef up your steering!
5. Wouldn't hurt! If you have the cash leftover for it, go for it.
6. These are of utmost importance. Get these before installing your lift.
7. & 8. Worry about these items once you have all the other stuff done and have some experience with your Jeep so you have a better idea of what you'll need.
9. Stock drag link will be fine with the ZJ setup. If you're looking at 1-ton steering, those kits replace the whole works. I don't think you should be looking at 1-tons though if it's a DD and you don't do any serious wheeling.
10. Should be included with your Zone kit.
11. Don't worry about it.
I was considering doing the 1 ton steering. If that would affect the drivability, is there anything else you'd recommend for steering upgrades or should I leave it stock?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,169
Likes: 6
From: York, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, in regards to your steering question, I think the ZJ setup would be just fine for ya. Better than stock and doesn't require extensive modification like a 1-ton setup.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Puyallup, Washington
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a 242. Does that mean I will need a front drive shaft from a vehicle that also has a 242 or will any front drive shaft work after the hack and tap?
1998 xj 4.0 242 8.25
1998 xj 4.0 242 8.25
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