CrawlerXJ

Which for the rear end, between the two?

True trac - $555

Trac lok - $274


I only take the jeep in sand, and fire trails. No rock crawling or hard stuff. I will have an E locker up front after. It's a toy, so I only put maybe 1,000 a year on it.

Thanks

Atmos

$555 for a limited slip?? I vote a full case detroit for $650
and wait if you dont do rocks is a front locker even necessary?

Atmos

or just put the eaton elocker in the rear and call it good

CrawlerXJ

Rear lockers and snow don't go hand and hand. Forgot to add, we also take it on snow runs.

The front locker is for the hills on the fire trails.

CrawlerXJ

That is a thought! Which is a 3rd option. My only thought is the limited would help in the snow, sand, and fireroads. Although, the locker wouldn't help in the snow.

Boost_Retard

I tore out my trac lok and swapped in front and rear true tracs

the true track blows the trac lok out the water, off road, and on frozen road.
true track 100%, if you think you will like them, you will... flawless traction in the bush...blows me away every time i go for a rip, and i have run spools and lockers before. just a great balance of on road and off road performance, mind you im pretty mild with only 31" tires.

CrawlerXJ

True track a locker or limited?

cruiser54

Limited

CrawlerXJ

Is it worth an extra $281? If so, can you explain.

cruiser54

Why not one of the lunch box lockers that don't require all the labor to install, like a PowerTrax?

SeriousOffroad

I think you got the prices mixed up....

Detroit True-Trac is typically in the $500 range.
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=87879

trac-Lok (AKA Trash-Loc) isn't worth the time or money. They simply don't perform that well and the clutches don't last to long.


Without knowing which rear axle he has, this may not be possible.

Simply not true. The driver has far more impact than just the presence of a locker.

CrawlerXJ

Going to re-gear.

I have the 8.25 rear axle 29 spline.

Boost_Retard

a trak loc is a clutch type LSD, works totally different than a torsen type true track.

a clutch type is just that, a clutch, so your LSD is built mostly like an open diff, with pre load on the side gears, clutch pack stuffed between the side gears and the diff housing. both wheels spin at the same speed when you have equal traction, when one wheel slips and trys to speed up, the clutch pack puts up a fight (where an open diff is left to free wheel for the most part).. you get stuck enough and the clutch pack cant compete. you end up with one tire fire and the clutch pack slipping on itself.

a torsen type diff has no clutch pack. its gear driven, no slip, does what its supposed to do all the time, only time the torsen diff really has trouble is when have a tire with pretty much zero resistance on it, in which case the torsen diff will one tire fire like an open diff or a stuck clutch type LSD. but it has to be damn near zero traction, like tire in the air or maybe on a sheet of ice. and to get things back into motion if you ever are in such situation, drag your foot on the brakes with your other on the gas, brakes feel the same to the diff as resistance from the ground does. diff works, away you go.. you can drive daily on road and never know its there, i did feel a slight resistance in the steering wheel over my old open diff, but after a few trips around the block, it feels totaly back to normal.. i can explain how the diff works in detail, but really you should search "torsen diff" on you tube and the videos will make it clear as day.

PS: i have yet to get into any situation with my true tracks where i have actually needed to drag the brakes to get over or through the obstacle

Rock Toy

I drive my Cherokee all the time in the snow, and it has a Detroit in the rear, and it isn't a problem at all. You just have to learn how to drive on snow.

CrawlerXJ

I am sure I can on bold tires too. Just don't sure I want to. lol