Transfer case drop kit
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
You're going to have 20 people behind me say that the T-case drop solved all of their issues but... don't do that.
Assuming you have an NP231 buy an SYE for $140 bucks, install it and get a drive shaft.
If you have an NP242 you'll have to use a Hack-n-tap.
Do it right. You'll be much happier in the long run.
Assuming you have an NP231 buy an SYE for $140 bucks, install it and get a drive shaft.
If you have an NP242 you'll have to use a Hack-n-tap.
Do it right. You'll be much happier in the long run.
Last edited by Lowrange2; Dec 19, 2013 at 02:41 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: FL
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O Power Tech
It will greatly dampen driveline vibes, but like lowrange said you should opt for the SYE. A t case drop for driveline vibes is like using a fancy steering stabilizer to "fix" dw.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 368
Likes: 1
From: Raleigh, NC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ironrock Offroad makes a sye that's less than $100. I run one and I have never had any issues. This plus a front driveshaft from the junkyard will run you less than $150.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...&Category_Code=
Just giving you other options. The Rugged Ridge one will work great too.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...&Category_Code=
Just giving you other options. The Rugged Ridge one will work great too.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: St. Albert
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
This is not the correct way to attempt to reduce driveline vibes at all with single cardan driveshafts. I am not saying that it didn't work for you, but it is not proper at all. You are putting your u-joints "out of phase" by using shims without a double cardan, it puts extra stress on your driveline.
My advice would be (as said before) to do it right the first time with a slip yoke eliminator, a DC driveshaft, then you can put in axle shims.
My advice would be (as said before) to do it right the first time with a slip yoke eliminator, a DC driveshaft, then you can put in axle shims.
This is not the correct way to attempt to reduce driveline vibes at all with single cardan driveshafts. I am not saying that it didn't work for you, but it is not proper at all. You are putting your u-joints "out of phase" by using shims without a double cardan, it puts extra stress on your driveline.
My advice would be (as said before) to do it right the first time with a slip yoke eliminator, a DC driveshaft, then you can put in axle shims.
My advice would be (as said before) to do it right the first time with a slip yoke eliminator, a DC driveshaft, then you can put in axle shims.
I am not arguing about what is "right" or rather politically correct on an internet forum.
I am just saying if you have doubts take it to a reputable 4wd shop.


