ANZAC

Anyone have any experience with front mount hitches that might clear the ARB bumper?

Or any way you can safely tow using the D ring attach points?
(if the bumper can handle being used for extraction.....)

ANZAC

e.g. using something like this
http://www.hitchsource.com/blue-ox-a...b-p-29589.html

aj2494

I will never be fan of those things, but now I'm curious to see if you could use a shackle instead of those clevis pins. That would be much more secure and could attach right to your bumper.

Update: I just did a google search for "d-ring tow bar" and there are definitely solutions out there.

caged

those arb bumpers are pretty thin. they look tough, but i've seen them bend before.

i just don't like where the shackle points are on those.

all you can do is give it a shot. test drive it around your town first.

ANZAC

The bumper is well gusseted, and IIRC the D-ring points attach to the vertical pieces that go through to the frame. I'll take a look.

BTW great advice on "d-ring towbar" - teh Goog pulled up a bunch of options including:
http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...-ring-adapter/
http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...arts/tow-bars/

Muddz

For the Cherokee XJ Roadmaster use two heavy duty base plates that install underneath the bumper brackets, bolting into the sub-frame. The tow bar has heavy duty piece of angle iron and round metal bar locking into the two anchor points of the base plates.

http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/1418-3.pdf
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdfinst/1418-1.pdf










Each vehicle is different and may require additional support to tie into the frame or sub-frame.




Blue-OX uses another approach for the XJ, installing a heavy duty bar that is part of the two base plates. The tow bar using clevis pins connect to the tow bar base plate.

Blue OX base plate for the XJ.







Both approaches creates additional required strength between both sides of the sub-frame.

If your ARB bumper is able to duplicate the same sort of strengh from and between both sides of the sub-frame there should be no problem as long as the two connection points where the tow bar attaches are strong enough.

Those clevis pins may appear to be weak. Tow bars will actually twist and bend before any pin breakage. The safety chains are there in case something breaks or becomes loose.

mrbug

Do not trust your rig to a lynch pin with a key. I have first had experience of those coming apart while pulling a Jeep Liberty behind a RV. I was able to get pulled off the interstate before loosing the Liberty completely. I ended up with a small hole in the front bumper. I was using a system similar to the Blue Ox in the #6 post, bottom picture. I only use bolts with locking nuts now.

ANZAC

http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...-ring-adapter/
These guys are 3/4" with a pin, the pin is not taking the draw load, just stopping the big pin from falling out. No different than what most people use on their draw bars, only bigger.

Also, IIRC you're required to have cables or chains as well in most states, as a backup.

Muddz

IIRC I think all states require safety chains. I use heavy duty chains or sometimes heavy duty cables.

Some states may require a tow brake, or some sort of braking device when towing over a certain limit. It's left up to each State to write and enforce their own rules and regulations.

If you're operating a heavy RV and add another ~4,000 +/- lbs creating a combined load it becomes more difficult to stop. Stopping distance significantly increases. If on slick pavement or snow a tow vehicle potentially jackknives ... having the additional braking helps in emergency situations as well while on the road and stop & go traffic.

Sounds as if there may be a problem with some types of locking mechanisms. On my tow bar I replaced the slip pins with keyed padlocks.

http://www.rvamerica.com/TownTalk/RV...s/Default.aspx

Here's a Military style tow bar I like. I think if I were going to install another tow bar would be similar to military type because I sometimes tow while off-road, logging roads, FSRs, etc. Modern collapsible & non-collaspsible tow bars sometimes have problems with the locking mechanisms and other parts of the tow bar failing. When off-road a pintle connection works much better than a ball. Military tow bar normally have higher pull ratings which makes the tow bar heavy. It may be difficult to find ones that are lighter.

ANZAC

Yep, looking at brake systems too.

SPAREHEARTPARTS

I have a 30 ' bounder and tow my 89 trail xj with a logans bumper and have had no problems. I do use a large bolt with lock washers though. And yes, my D-ring attachment points are connected to the main bracing of the bumper mounts. i dont even feel the XJ when im towing

Rogue4x4

I towed my XJ behind a moving truck with a tow bar. Granted it was not the best, but did what I had to do at the time, lost a job and had to move cross country. Got a cheap tow bar on CL. Bad move. After 500 miles or so, the brackets that attached to the bumper broke. I was in the middle of nowheres crippled. Had to rent a flatbed tow trailer. And that wasn't without issue, as I had 35's, had to deflate the tires to get it on the trailer, and strapped down proper.

My advice? IF you decide on a bumper mount tow bar, DO YOUR RESEARCH!...other than that, I suggest a tow dolly or flat trailer...having things go wrong in the middle of BFE REALLY sucks.

toasterknight

It would have to be a flat trailer as you can't safely dolly an xj without removing the front shaft.

Rogue4x4

I did use a flat trailer...but removing the driveshafts isn't difficult

mrbug

Once the key falls out of the pin then there is nothing left to control the vehicle. Cables and chains may keep it from becoming loose from the tow rig but it can become out of control. In my case the pin did not fail, instead the key came out and allowed the pin to fall out. A bolt with a nyloc is much more secure.