Tips on spring install this weekend
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Tips on spring install this weekend
I have a tired 3" Pro Comp lift that has been on my Jeep for 4 years. Really it is 3" front and 2" AAL rear. Now with all my accessories, heavy spare and gear it is a little saggy.
I bought a set of RE 3.5 coils, RE 3.5" leaf pack, RE sway bar disconnects and a mystery adjustable trac bar that I got from a NAXJA member.
I am going to tear into it this weekend. Other than installing the Pro Comp lift 4 years ago, I have limited experience installing springs and no experience mixing and matching components. I am looking for general advice for things to watch for and potential problems that might arise. Any thoughts?
I know that I am only lifting another 0.5", however, since I know the RE lift is underestimated, here are my concerns:
Will using the lower control arms that came with my Pro Comp kit pose any alignment problems if the new springs give me an extra 1" or so?
I have MX9000 shocks that came with the Pro Comp 3" kit, I am going to continue to use them for now. How can I tell if I need longer shocks?
Hopefully everything lines up close enough to go get it aligned next week since I have a 4wheeling trip planned for next weekend.
Thanks
I bought a set of RE 3.5 coils, RE 3.5" leaf pack, RE sway bar disconnects and a mystery adjustable trac bar that I got from a NAXJA member.
I am going to tear into it this weekend. Other than installing the Pro Comp lift 4 years ago, I have limited experience installing springs and no experience mixing and matching components. I am looking for general advice for things to watch for and potential problems that might arise. Any thoughts?
I know that I am only lifting another 0.5", however, since I know the RE lift is underestimated, here are my concerns:
Will using the lower control arms that came with my Pro Comp kit pose any alignment problems if the new springs give me an extra 1" or so?
I have MX9000 shocks that came with the Pro Comp 3" kit, I am going to continue to use them for now. How can I tell if I need longer shocks?
Hopefully everything lines up close enough to go get it aligned next week since I have a 4wheeling trip planned for next weekend.
Thanks
#2
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Acccording to what you have and what you bought you should be just fine the little extra lift should not be a issue.
#4
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Year: 1998
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Cool, thanks for the advice. I plan on getting new shocks as soon an funds allow it. Too many things and so little cash
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First snag, need some help.
Rear brake line appears to be welded to the rear axle housing. I read on another thread someone else running across this and some people chimed in that is was not that way from the factory.
I bought this Jeep from a little old couple and it was bone stock when I got it, so I guarantee this is factory.
Anyone know the solution to putting the longer brake line on? I have the RE stainless line.
Rear brake line appears to be welded to the rear axle housing. I read on another thread someone else running across this and some people chimed in that is was not that way from the factory.
I bought this Jeep from a little old couple and it was bone stock when I got it, so I guarantee this is factory.
Anyone know the solution to putting the longer brake line on? I have the RE stainless line.
#6
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
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First snag, need some help.
Rear brake line appears to be welded to the rear axle housing. I read on another thread someone else running across this and some people chimed in that is was not that way from the factory.
I bought this Jeep from a little old couple and it was bone stock when I got it, so I guarantee this is factory.
Anyone know the solution to putting the longer brake line on? I have the RE stainless line.
Rear brake line appears to be welded to the rear axle housing. I read on another thread someone else running across this and some people chimed in that is was not that way from the factory.
I bought this Jeep from a little old couple and it was bone stock when I got it, so I guarantee this is factory.
Anyone know the solution to putting the longer brake line on? I have the RE stainless line.
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#8
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Year: 1994
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the new leafs will be a total PITA if you dont have a hoist. the new leafs will be arched more than old beat up stock leafs, this means the mounting holes on the new leafs will be closer together than the mounting holes on the jeep. i installed the front leaf mount into the front location on the jeep first. i then put a jack under the center of the leaf to compress in, thus increasing the distance between the two mounting holes. now, to help ensure the rear mounting hole on the leaf is going to line up with the rear mount on the jeep, i used a series of 2x4 wedges and placed them beween the frame and above the rear mounting hole on the leaf, the thick end of the wedge is facing the front of the vehicle (inside the leaf spring arch)..... hope this isnt too confusing. as you pump your jack, the jeep will eventually start to lift as well, you can also bang on the wedges to help flatten out the leaf and line up the holes.
sooooo yeah, hope that was helpful haha
sooooo yeah, hope that was helpful haha
#9
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1. got the rear brake line in, that was actually very easy once I realized what I was looking at.
2. Rear springs were actually much easier than I thought. No hoist, just jack stands in the driveway.
3. Fighting with the front end now. Can't get the passenger side spring out because there is too much crap keeping it from flexing down. Anyone know what is mainly keeping the axle from dropping? Is it the trac bar or steering linkage? We took the nut off the trac bar mount bolt (lower one) and the bolt will not come out. It is stuck in the rubber bushing. big hammer won't budge it.
Last question, how do the lower sway bar bolts come out of the lower mounts? The one with the torx. I tried to break it free with a T30 torx and I think I just ruined the socket. Are they pressed in or what?
2. Rear springs were actually much easier than I thought. No hoist, just jack stands in the driveway.
3. Fighting with the front end now. Can't get the passenger side spring out because there is too much crap keeping it from flexing down. Anyone know what is mainly keeping the axle from dropping? Is it the trac bar or steering linkage? We took the nut off the trac bar mount bolt (lower one) and the bolt will not come out. It is stuck in the rubber bushing. big hammer won't budge it.
Last question, how do the lower sway bar bolts come out of the lower mounts? The one with the torx. I tried to break it free with a T30 torx and I think I just ruined the socket. Are they pressed in or what?
#11
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Year: 1995
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You dont need to un hook the lcas you just need to unhook the track bar an the right tie rod end at the spindle and take the brake calipers and hang them an i used one tire on the opposite side i was working on to act as a pivot point and put a floor jack on the side you are changing an drop it on the ground but make sure u have a good set of jack stands haha
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