Tips for lift install
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rustys full leaf/coil lift quality American made springs/leafs about the only company that has them.
I've been running the 3" for 4 yrs now and its the base for my 4 1/2" lift now works great with it also.
I've been running the 3" for 4 yrs now and its the base for my 4 1/2" lift now works great with it also.
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Tips for lift install
Hey everyone... Its my first time installing a lift kit and im looking for some tips. I ordered the Rustys offroad 3in lift with full leafs. I just wanted to know if there is anything I should know.... I am aware of the rear shock mounts breaking... any way to minimize that? Thanks guys
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Pb blaster, pb blaster, pb blaster.
Every day, multiple times if possible, for at least a week or two prior to starting.
Don't break the leaf spring bolts, shackle bolts or the trans crossmember bolts because you will need to cut an access hole somewhere to fix those and it sucks.
Use anti seize on things you want to come apart again in the future, and torque everything with the weight of the vehicle on all four tires on the ground.
And retorque all bolts several times after driving for a few hundred miles.
Btw, did I say PB BLASTER?!
Every day, multiple times if possible, for at least a week or two prior to starting.
Don't break the leaf spring bolts, shackle bolts or the trans crossmember bolts because you will need to cut an access hole somewhere to fix those and it sucks.
Use anti seize on things you want to come apart again in the future, and torque everything with the weight of the vehicle on all four tires on the ground.
And retorque all bolts several times after driving for a few hundred miles.
Btw, did I say PB BLASTER?!
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Soak the hell out of PB blaster. Everything was super simple to me an direct. You need to give a bit more info on the kit tho? Did you get lowers? If so take shocks off and then lowers and then put the coils in and then the new lowers and and then the shocks. Have a friend doing control arms alone sucks because the axle is gonna shift everywhere. and the rear is easy.You should easily find videos which will make things way more understandable than reading here.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
As all others have said soak everything for a week every day soaking before you ever start.
You did get an adj. track bar also didn't you? if not you really should have one. The stock LCA's are fine if you have wheels with the proper BS for them like an 8" wheel needs 3.75" of BS and will clear up to 12:50 width tires.
You did get an adj. track bar also didn't you? if not you really should have one. The stock LCA's are fine if you have wheels with the proper BS for them like an 8" wheel needs 3.75" of BS and will clear up to 12:50 width tires.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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- Have a 2-3 foot breaker bar for getting the front leaf spring bolts loose.
- Ratchet straps are handy for getting the front axle back into position and helping line things up.
- Use your phone to take pictures of how thing were positioned before you disassemble them.
- Make sure your jack stands will be tall enough to accommodate the added height you'll need for the lift. If you have the standard shorter ones, larger ones may be helpful.
- Two floor jacks are helpful. You can do it with one, but 2 is better.
- Based on reports I've seen on the forums, you have a better chance than not of breaking the upper rear shock bolts. Even with having a southern, nearly rust-free vehicle, mine snapped off like they were made of plastic.
- I'd have a set of the following handy. They are a lifesaver:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-2001-JE...-/191494106871
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
I wouldn't worry about those shock bolts. Buy an air hammer at harbor freight for $10, use it to knock them out and then fish some new ones in from the top with mechanics wire. It was super easy.
#14
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Year: 2000
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#15
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
The instructions say nothing about either using the bar pin or the sleeve in the bushing if you have bar pin eliminators?