time for 1-tons?
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From: Elkhart I.N.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It would take a ton of fab to run the rocks and not worth it on a Cherokee. Since they are a top loader you need a ton of lift just to clear them and the only gear choice is 6.17. If you plan on tons or even 1/2 tons plan on it being down for a few days just to swap everything out and make new drive shafts. I'd say keep what you got and run the 33s and when you decide to step up in tire size worry about axles then. Keep in mind a decent front D60 runs around a grand and that's if it needs to be rebuilt. I've got over 1500 in the one I'm building to replace my front 44. Rears can be had for cheap, paid 75 bucks for my 60 with factory 4.56s.
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From: Elkhart I.N.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
It would take a ton of fab to run the rocks and not worth it on a Cherokee. Since they are a top loader you need a ton of lift just to clear them and the only gear choice is 6.17. If you plan on tons or even 1/2 tons plan on it being down for a few days just to swap everything out and make new drive shafts. I'd say keep what you got and run the 33s and when you decide to step up in tire size worry about axles then. Keep in mind a decent front D60 runs around a grand and that's if it needs to be rebuilt. I've got over 1500 in the one I'm building to replace my front 44. Rears can be had for cheap, paid 75 bucks for my 60 with factory 4.56s.
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have 40s waiting to go on right now and I have a pair of d60s lined up for 500, with gas at 4$ per gallon the jeeps staying home for a while so down time is no problem im going to head out and pick up some gas for my welder and tackle it, ok so what vehicle would have the best d60s in it?
78-79 ford D60 are the most desirable because they have the largest driver side tube area. Ford is also the only ones that are high pinion. Early to mid eighties have a very small area on the driver side to put a spring bucket so plan on spending a good bit of time with a grinder and/or raise the mounts. Most will say kingpins are stronger and I agree but ball joints are plenty strong. If you are going to run 40s skip the 60 rear and get a 14 bolt. It's a good bit stronger, close to a rock, and can be had for the same price and some times cheaper. CUCVs came with a factory detroit and 4.56s although they won't be any where near low enough for 40s. Plan on some serious cutting unless you want to lift it a foot. I run 38s with 8" and have cut a bunch, roughly 4-5" and still rub. Steering upgrades are something else you should consider. I'd also suggest some aftermarket shafts for the front because 40s are pushing it on a stock 60.
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From: Elkhart I.N.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
Ya my local jy will give me d60s for that price so I need to pick a set. Thanks for the detailed info, what about limited slip and all those fun goodies, disc brakes... some sort of steering upgrade is absolutely needed, ill be sitting on more than 9 inches of lift and I already trimmed and made my own rear wheel wells if I didn't already have the 40s I would most likely be looking for something even bigger
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you can get kingpin driver drop hp 60s for $500 I need to know the name of the junkyard because I can sell them for a grand all day long down here.
I personally wouldn't waste my time with a LSD and tons of companies make rear disc kits for 60s and 14bolts. Word of advice don't try fitting 15" wheels on a front 60.
I personally wouldn't waste my time with a LSD and tons of companies make rear disc kits for 60s and 14bolts. Word of advice don't try fitting 15" wheels on a front 60.
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From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
18s will be fine. BTW RVs won't have a front 60, Hummers are front and rear independent and some military CUCVs have a front 60 and rear 14bolt but the 60 is a passenger side drop and low pinion but most have a 10 bolt front.
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