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tie rod upgrade

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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by srb53150
this is what i did w/ my zj rod , got the goferit weld in bushing & flipped the drivers side over the knuckle. it levels the tie rod & gives way more clearance, its easy to do also , bushing is like $ 20. i had a local 4wd shop do it ,due to the tack weld part. took them a 1/2 hr.
that's where I would order from as well. I would tack it myself but the drilling is the hardest part I would think. Any idea the size bit is needed to flip it?
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #17  
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http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...J-ZJ-TJ-RE2600
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:11 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
that's where I would order from as well. I would tack it myself but the drilling is the hardest part I would think. Any idea the size bit is needed to flip it?
3/4" hole, probably a step bit w/ its largest size 3/4" would be the best way to drill it out ? you just cant let it angle at all.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by srb53150
this is what i did w/ my zj rod , got the goferit weld in bushing & flipped the drivers side over the knuckle. it levels the tie rod & gives way more clearance, its easy to do also , bushing is like $ 20. i had a local 4wd shop do it ,due to the tack weld part. took them a 1/2 hr.
Could you throw a picture up of that setup?
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by srb53150
3/4" hole, probably a step bit w/ its largest size 3/4" would be the best way to drill it out ? you just cant let it angle at all.
Order a 3/4" tapered reamer from McMaster Carr. Makes big holes in steel easy, I use them to drill holes in large I beams in the field with a 1/2 drill motor.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #21  
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Here ya go....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#reamers/=uyx62i
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by srb53150
this is what i did w/ my zj rod , got the goferit weld in bushing & flipped the drivers side over the knuckle. it levels the tie rod & gives way more clearance, its easy to do also , bushing is like $ 20. i had a local 4wd shop do it ,due to the tack weld part. took them a 1/2 hr.
x2. Although I think you will need to raise your lower swaybar mounting brackets to clear the driver's side TRE and the draglink TRE on the passenger side.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gary Briggs
thanks this will be handy if i end up doing this. Much easier than a 3/4 drill bit.

Originally Posted by cdn_xj
x2. Although I think you will need to raise your lower swaybar mounting brackets to clear the driver's side TRE and the draglink TRE on the passenger side.
I would just raise the tie rod, the drag link doesn't seem to as prone to hitting anything. Don't know if i need to cut the sway bar brackets for the tie rod.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #24  
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Or get a V8 ZJ from the JY fro $15 and save for 1 ton. As i'm doing. I've had my ZJ tr for a while and its fine.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FreddyD'Apice
Or get a V8 ZJ from the JY fro $15 and save for 1 ton. As i'm doing. I've had my ZJ tr for a while and its fine.
That's what I did, I happened to run across a ZJ with a near new Tierod under it at picknpull. Still had the stickers on it. Best 17$ I've spent on the cherokee.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by srb53150
this is what i did w/ my zj rod , got the goferit weld in bushing & flipped the drivers side over the knuckle. it levels the tie rod & gives way more clearance, its easy to do also , bushing is like $ 20. i had a local 4wd shop do it ,due to the tack weld part. took them a 1/2 hr.
Think that sounds like the best bang for the buck. I've already thought about the goferit flip, probably later though. Does it clear the sway bar link mount? I don't use mine anyway. I broke bolts off in the frame & figured it's not worth time & drill bits to fix. Today I found I also need wheel joints & ball joints. Save $ on ZJ setup to afford fix on the other stuff. Never done ball joints ,hope it's not a nightmare. I have the tool,(harbor freight) wonder how that will workout.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 01:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kcxj
Never done ball joints ,hope it's not a nightmare. I have the tool,(harbor freight) wonder how that will workout.
Mine took me 2 days for one side. Hub is original '88 so it was the hardest part. Also bought a cheap (i'm sure the same as HF) press and it bent half-way through so that added frustration to the mix but did end up doing the job. Good luck!
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
thanks this will be handy if i end up doing this. Much easier than a 3/4 drill bit.



I would just raise the tie rod, the drag link doesn't seem to as prone to hitting anything. Don't know if i need to cut the sway bar brackets for the tie rod.
you only need to raise the drivers side to keep this a easy mod. some people need to cut & raise the sway bar mount , some dont. it usually fits but its close, a little cut/ grind of the bracket should make it clear.
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