T-case drop
11-30-2015, 06:25 PM
#1
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So I have a 2000 jeep xj 4.0 auto with the 231. So when the shop that lifted my jeep was trying to put the t-case drop on, they broke one bolt then stopped cause they didn't wanna break more. I don't wanna break the rest of them trying to get it on but I'm getting really bad vibes, so I need it on. Any tips, tricks?
11-30-2015, 07:57 PM
#2
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
When I lifted my jeep I broke every single bolt on the crossmember. I welded new nuts inside the unibody frame rail or you could weld studs to the bottom of the unibody Frame rail and then use nuts to hold on the crossmember
Last edited by bender32; 11-30-2015 at 08:01 PM.
11-30-2015, 08:56 PM
#3
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Year: 2000
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any good shop should be able to get the broken bolt out. if any of the bolt is sticking out just weld a nut to it and heat the hell out of it and work it out. worse cans you'll need to drill it out..
12-04-2015, 08:08 AM
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A shop that doesn't know how to use an EZ out? sounds like a BS shop to me.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
12-04-2015, 09:41 AM
#5
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
A shop that doesn't know how to use an EZ out? sounds like a BS shop to me.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
12-04-2015, 09:44 AM
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
A shop that doesn't know how to use an EZ out? sounds like a BS shop to me.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
What bolt did they break? The one that treads in though the bottom or the studs on the front side of the crossmember?
The studs you can double nut it and get them to come out, carefully. Lots of PB blaster and maybe even some heat.
I'd also find a new shop next time. Sounds like this one is pretty incompetent.
12-04-2015, 11:01 AM
#7
Beach Bum
One thing to note, some 3" lift springs come with degree shims already installed. These are usually not compatible with the stock rear driveline because it raises the pinion angle too high and puts the u-joints 'out of phase'.
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12-04-2015, 12:52 PM
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so it's not better for the pinion to be pointing at the tcase? I just feel like that would put less stress on it
12-04-2015, 01:06 PM
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Year: 2000
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If you do not have a CV driveshaft then the joints have to be parallel. This way they are in phase. One cancels the vibes of the other. With a CV shaft that you would install with a SYE or hack n tap then you would point the pinion at the output shaft of the t case. CV shafts have 3 u joints.
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