TNT Customs Long arm users?
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Hey guys. So Ive been running the Iron Rock Off-road 6.5" kit for along time- about 150,000 total miles, tons of 4x4 trails, Moab, Sand dunes all kinds of stuff and have been happy with it. It works great BUT the joints are finally failing- Its beat up and recently, I have been smashing the underside on all kinds of things. Recently put a big gash on my Tcase. The TNT kit has the full belly pan and I like trying New products...
I know they have a good reputation, but have any of you had any issues with it? Joints good etc? thanks! I would be just buying the long arm kit (1000$). Or does anyone know another kit that has a full belly skid w/ removable center section like theirs? Thanks
I know they have a good reputation, but have any of you had any issues with it? Joints good etc? thanks! I would be just buying the long arm kit (1000$). Or does anyone know another kit that has a full belly skid w/ removable center section like theirs? Thanks
#2
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Location: City of Trees, CA
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I loved my TNT arms. I didn't have them long enough to wear out a joint. The high clearance arms and belly pan are amazing though. They're top of the line with a high price tag for a reason. But joints on any kit will wear out eventually
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Yea I really like the belly pan on them. Price isn't really that bad.. 250$ more for a ton of extra metal vs Serious/sexton/blee etc. Did you have it on with your stiffeners/sliders? Just drill the holes or weld it on?
#4
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
They're pretty expensive.. But not bad compared to the rest of your build lol. I ran them with ruffstuff stiffeners. I'm pretty sure you have to drill holes for the kit anyway but I welded mine on lol. I knew I would sell the kit in a month or two. Wish I never sold the belly pan though. That thing was awesome
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
I ran them on my last XJ. They were great, like Atmos said. The belly pan takes a serious beating and it covers a large portion of the undercarriage. They were great on the road (many many 6-10 hour drives and about 30k road miles total on mine before I sold the XJ), and offroad they really shined. The high clearance arms are great, and really set them apart from the other long arm manufacturers. My joints were still tight after 3 years of wheeling and 30k road miles.
The only downside is the fact that the big heavy crossmember/bellypan is one piece. And it is a big job to drop it if you have to service the tcase, if you're doing it alone.
The only downside is the fact that the big heavy crossmember/bellypan is one piece. And it is a big job to drop it if you have to service the tcase, if you're doing it alone.
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I recently picked up a 95 with tnt's 'y link' long arms on the front, and their (tnt's) coil conversion/4 link rear, and couldn't be happier! Those skids/belly pan is the best part! Super beef!
Kits been on the jeep for over 5 years, and its been wheeled, hard! Moab, Arizona, Colorado, and all over California. Everything up front is perfect still! Only issue I found was some shot bushings in the rear upper links, but that was mostly due to exhaust routing, and I see tnt now sells them with rebuildable flex joints at both ends (on the uppers) now.
Over all I'd say tnt's long arms are one of the best, and the belly skid is ****! I've run a lot of different long arm setups (iron rock, rustys, rough country, tnt) and I'd say tnt takes the cake. Best quality, best skid, best clearance, and they are super nice, very helpful people!
I was looking very seriously at Clayton's new 3 link to replace the rough country long arms on my 98 when the time comes, but I'm really thinking I'm a tnt guy from here on out.
Kits been on the jeep for over 5 years, and its been wheeled, hard! Moab, Arizona, Colorado, and all over California. Everything up front is perfect still! Only issue I found was some shot bushings in the rear upper links, but that was mostly due to exhaust routing, and I see tnt now sells them with rebuildable flex joints at both ends (on the uppers) now.
Over all I'd say tnt's long arms are one of the best, and the belly skid is ****! I've run a lot of different long arm setups (iron rock, rustys, rough country, tnt) and I'd say tnt takes the cake. Best quality, best skid, best clearance, and they are super nice, very helpful people!
I was looking very seriously at Clayton's new 3 link to replace the rough country long arms on my 98 when the time comes, but I'm really thinking I'm a tnt guy from here on out.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Although I haven't run my tnt long arms, I am
In the process of installing.
I bought the kit used, and bought the kit to rebuild the joints, which was super easy. Install has been tricky, but I really have no idea what I'm doing. I'm not sure about the newer kits, but the one I have has a one piece belly pan/tcase skid and it is a pita to remove (16 bolts) which is unfortunate for any time the tcase or transmissions needs to be serviced.
Oh, also. The passenger side control arm mount is sandwiched between the exhaust and unibody rail, preventing a wrench to fit. So install the arms into the pan before installing the pan. The front driveshaft looks hard to remove from the case, but I haven't tried yet.
In the process of installing.
I bought the kit used, and bought the kit to rebuild the joints, which was super easy. Install has been tricky, but I really have no idea what I'm doing. I'm not sure about the newer kits, but the one I have has a one piece belly pan/tcase skid and it is a pita to remove (16 bolts) which is unfortunate for any time the tcase or transmissions needs to be serviced.
Oh, also. The passenger side control arm mount is sandwiched between the exhaust and unibody rail, preventing a wrench to fit. So install the arms into the pan before installing the pan. The front driveshaft looks hard to remove from the case, but I haven't tried yet.
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Thanks for the replies guys... I'm pretty dead set on it now. Not too worried about lowering it.. several floor/transmission jacks laying around. Did any of you have exhaust clearance issues? Or any other for that matter... I have a 3" exhaust all the way for the Stroker and it all clears the IRO kit fine.
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Thanks for the replies guys... I'm pretty dead set on it now. Not too worried about lowering it.. several floor/transmission jacks laying around. Did any of you have exhaust clearance issues? Or any other for that matter... I have a 3" exhaust all the way for the Stroker and it all clears the IRO kit fine.
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the lower brackets are mounted off the bottom of the frame rail. it's a good system it works well, but every once in awhile I'll get hung up on the frame side brackets. pain in the ***. I'm gonna re-do it when I have time