SYE & driveshaft oppinions NEEDED PLEASE HELP
recently lifted my xj 4" , did the iron rock hack n tap yoke but a front shaft was too long . i just had a local drive shaft shop build me a new proper length rear ds. or you can have a old front shaft rebuilt & retubed to the right length. save some $$ that way if you get a jy xj front shaft. i could have got a stock front ds on but it was compressed to far in, only had a 1/2" of in travel left & thats not enough.most drive shafts are built w/ 5" of travel & are built to have 2" in & 3" out to allow for spring & axle movement.
Was the shaft you got from a automatic? Heard that's what you need to fit.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Thanks for the help everyone, I'll probabally end up with this...
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-dr...liminator.html and a stock front Ds.
Or...
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/advance...riveshaft.html
Wish me luck. lol
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-dr...liminator.html and a stock front Ds.
Or...
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/advance...riveshaft.html
Wish me luck. lol
id do either rugged ridge or porc
both are about 150 right now
rugged ridge has free shipping from here at the moment
http://www.4ws.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator.html
get a front driveshaft from an auto xj at the jy
easy squeezy, thats my plan
both are about 150 right now
rugged ridge has free shipping from here at the moment
http://www.4ws.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator.html
get a front driveshaft from an auto xj at the jy
easy squeezy, thats my plan
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I've been doing research and pricing something for my 99 which just got the RE 3.5" super ride kit and has definite vibes between 30 & 55mph. I tried a 1" tc drop for a temp. fix and it's still pretty bad.
I don't have any JYs within a 2hr drive of me, and am leaning towards a new driveshaft as well. I've found the Iron Rock package with the SYE kit, and their new driveshaft is a better deal than most. The H'N'T kit gets awesome reviews everywhere I've seen. They make parts for either the 231 or 242 TC too. There are some great write-ups on here I've found and will most likely be going that route.
With the cost of gas or shipping, buying a used one for me comes close enough to the price of a new driveshaft from IRO to be worth the small difference since it'll save the cost of new u-joints and the time finding and rebuilding a used one.
(I can now list one benefit to living in a city: cheap available parts. I still prefer the mountains though.)
I don't have any JYs within a 2hr drive of me, and am leaning towards a new driveshaft as well. I've found the Iron Rock package with the SYE kit, and their new driveshaft is a better deal than most. The H'N'T kit gets awesome reviews everywhere I've seen. They make parts for either the 231 or 242 TC too. There are some great write-ups on here I've found and will most likely be going that route.
With the cost of gas or shipping, buying a used one for me comes close enough to the price of a new driveshaft from IRO to be worth the small difference since it'll save the cost of new u-joints and the time finding and rebuilding a used one.
(I can now list one benefit to living in a city: cheap available parts. I still prefer the mountains though.)
I also ave a 98 XJ and just installed my RE3.5 in lift..... It had very bad drive line vibes so I ended up doing the rustys HD SYE eleminator kit with tom woods rear CV drive Shaft ( packaged together its a good deal and far stronger than a front DS. here is the problem I found with Hack and tap SYE's... if your end shaft of your transfer case has any endplay from wear the hack and tap systems will fail and is much weaker than doing the shaft replacement, plus it makes the transfer case longer and causes more vibes than the Heavy Duty SYE's.
so with the 3.5 RE kit on my 98 classic i did the rustys HD SYE with tom woods CV DS, and 3 degree rear axle shims. the SYE alone did not make it perfect.
so with the 3.5 RE kit on my 98 classic i did the rustys HD SYE with tom woods CV DS, and 3 degree rear axle shims. the SYE alone did not make it perfect.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: sacramento
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
I got the jb sye in my 95 with a front ds the kit was just under 220 to my door an literally took me 20 mins to install longest part was waiting for the sealant to dry an ive had no problems so far
id do either rugged ridge or porc
both are about 150 right now
rugged ridge has free shipping from here at the moment
http://www.4ws.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator.html
get a front driveshaft from an auto xj at the jy
easy squeezy, thats my plan
both are about 150 right now
rugged ridge has free shipping from here at the moment
http://www.4ws.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator.html
get a front driveshaft from an auto xj at the jy
easy squeezy, thats my plan
$150 yes, BUT not free shipping, its $25.49 to me at least
is the a coupon code for the forum?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
I also ave a 98 XJ and just installed my RE3.5 in lift..... It had very bad drive line vibes so I ended up doing the rustys HD SYE eleminator kit with tom woods rear CV drive Shaft ( packaged together its a good deal and far stronger than a front DS. here is the problem I found with Hack and tap SYE's... if your end shaft of your transfer case has any endplay from wear the hack and tap systems will fail and is much weaker than doing the shaft replacement, plus it makes the transfer case longer and causes more vibes than the Heavy Duty SYE's.
so with the 3.5 RE kit on my 98 classic i did the rustys HD SYE with tom woods CV DS, and 3 degree rear axle shims. the SYE alone did not make it perfect.
so with the 3.5 RE kit on my 98 classic i did the rustys HD SYE with tom woods CV DS, and 3 degree rear axle shims. the SYE alone did not make it perfect.
Its a good call! sounds like you are just a step behind me in your build! shoot me a PM if you ever have any questions as you go forward. BTW I dont know if you have bought/ installed your RE kit yet but I have learned that it actually ends up being 4-4.5 inches of lift so you need to be looking at Drive line and steering changes that happen at those lift heights not the ones at 3.5.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
From: Orlando/Winter Garden
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Its a good call! sounds like you are just a step behind me in your build! shoot me a PM if you ever have any questions as you go forward. BTW I dont know if you have bought/ installed your RE kit yet but I have learned that it actually ends up being 4-4.5 inches of lift so you need to be looking at Drive line and steering changes that happen at those lift heights not the ones at 3.5.
also I was able to very easily do the HD SYE conversion without removing the TC from the jeep. All the bolts were easy to get to and there was plenty of room to just slide it out. just make sure the underbody in that area is clean so no dirt or grime falls into the t-case. the whole thing took less than an hour in my garage. also make sure you have a good set of snap ring pliers ( both inside and outside pliers)
I ordered the rustys adj. track bar and steering brace at the same time I got the other stuff ( btw im not up Rustys butt) Ha those are the only parts I have from them. I chose not to use RE's quick disconnects as I read they were crap and instead did the JKS Quicker disco (great BTW)
If i remember right RE has two different types of Track bars... single shear and double... RE track bar Bracket has just a single 90 Deg bend with no reinforcement so from what I have heard is not as strong as the factory one ( watch the track bar video on Kevins Off-Road website.
I also did the Bilstein 5100's and going down the road it rides like a dream only problem i have found is that sharp bumps really get transfered into the chassis so I am considering picking up the RCX lower control arm drop bracket to get it as close to a perfect ride as possible.
If i remember right RE has two different types of Track bars... single shear and double... RE track bar Bracket has just a single 90 Deg bend with no reinforcement so from what I have heard is not as strong as the factory one ( watch the track bar video on Kevins Off-Road website.
I also did the Bilstein 5100's and going down the road it rides like a dream only problem i have found is that sharp bumps really get transfered into the chassis so I am considering picking up the RCX lower control arm drop bracket to get it as close to a perfect ride as possible.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 4
From: Boone, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 4
From: Boone, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
well this ones 160 with free shipping
http://www.extremeterrain.com/rugged...yj-186766.html
and if you talk to this vendor, you may still get it 150 with free shipping
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f123/np...ng-180979.html
http://www.extremeterrain.com/rugged...yj-186766.html
and if you talk to this vendor, you may still get it 150 with free shipping
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f123/np...ng-180979.html


