1998xjspt

Okay so I'm lifting my XJ with a 3.5 RE lift. And if it just so happens that I need a SYE and driveshaft..which sye&driveshaft should I get? Is there a specific brand or do you guys suggest something that would be best? I plan on mudding and having fun, not beating the he'll out of it. Any serious help would greatly be appreciated. Thankyou to all. I am also aware that I can just put a front driveshaft in the rear and save some $ but if there were to be a cheap, legit driveshaft manufacturer or anything out there, I would rather spend some cash on a new and stronger part. I plan on keeping my XJ for quite some time and eventually passing it onto my kid (:

No4x4Yet

Iron Rock Offroad makes a hack and tap the uses a stock front DS. For jeep thats not gonna see serious wheeling is a cheap option. Im planning on install one in a few weeks.

mattphillips90

id do either rugged ridge or porc
both are about 150 right now
rugged ridge has free shipping from here at the moment
http://www.4ws.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator.html
get a front driveshaft from an auto xj at the jy
easy squeezy, thats my plan

Gee oh Dee

HnT.

With a traditional SYE if you manage to break the tcase you may damage the SYE as well. With a HnT you'll be able to reuse the parts on any new tcase you get.

mattphillips90

Well i did not know that. Now i may be leaning towards one. What makes rugged ridge and porc not traditional?

srb531

recently lifted my xj 4" , did the iron rock hack n tap yoke but a front shaft was too long . i just had a local drive shaft shop build me a new proper length rear ds. or you can have a old front shaft rebuilt & retubed to the right length. save some $$ that way if you get a jy xj front shaft. i could have got a stock front ds on but it was compressed to far in, only had a 1/2" of in travel left & thats not enough.most drive shafts are built w/ 5" of travel & are built to have 2" in & 3" out to allow for spring & axle movement.

Gee oh Dee

Traditional as in replaces the shaft.

So traditional like advance adaptors vs a non traditional HntT.

mattphillips90

Oh sorry i thought you were saying porc wasnt a traditional one so i was confused

Gee oh Dee

There is probably WAY better terminology, but thats what I've got.

MikeT2

I am new to the forum, but I installed an Iron Rock Offroad hack and tap for my 4 1/2" lift along with the OEM front DS and it was a snap. So far no problems.
Good luck

SeriousOffroad

Might want to ask one of the mods to merge this thread with this one:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/my...-plans-155026/

mattphillips90

Haha nah it makes sense. It was my skimming over words that was the problem

rawk krawler

I personally pulled a front drive shaft and put it back there with an Advanced adapters 231j sye - haven't had any issues and it was cheap and easy way to resolve the issue. took about a day of lazily removing case and installing kit. I believe i Paid about $237 shipped to my door ( this kit replaces yoke, shaft, tail housing, all seals, bearings etc... and you get to see the inner of your case to inspect for damage. as for the shaft I had a spare jeep so i took it from there, but for example at picknpull they are around $50-60, rather buy 2 of them than a $200-300 aftermarket haha. and once installed this kit looks professional. no drilling into old parts.

indianabluexj

I have the Rusty's 6.5" kit and the IRO Hack n Tap. It was very easy and has seemed to work very well.

Potatowalker

I've been doing research and pricing something for my 99 which just got the RE 3.5" super ride kit and has definite vibes between 30 & 55mph. I tried a 1" tc drop for a temp. fix and it's still pretty bad.

I don't have any JYs within a 2hr drive of me, and am leaning towards a new driveshaft as well. I've found the Iron Rock package with the SYE kit, and their new driveshaft is a better deal than most. The H'N'T kit gets awesome reviews everywhere I've seen. They make parts for either the 231 or 242 TC too. There are some great write-ups on here I've found and will most likely be going that route.

With the cost of gas or shipping, buying a used one for me comes close enough to the price of a new driveshaft from IRO to be worth the small difference since it'll save the cost of new u-joints and the time finding and rebuilding a used one.

(I can now list one benefit to living in a city: cheap available parts. I still prefer the mountains though.)