Sway bar hits
#16
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Originally Posted by Velcro
Never mind don't think rotating the links will work. I'm pretty sure something is wrong with either the links or the sway bar or something set up weird. Maybe try going back to factory links and/or getting some sway bar drop brackets or making your own.
#17
Beach Bum
Correct, there is not much room there to begin with. Add 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate (bumper bracket or tow hook) and it gets tight, no room for a thick bolt head and washer.
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I used hand tools and did not have an issue with bolt turning. Removing them might be a different story.Correct, there is not much room there to begin with. Add 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate (bumper bracket or tow hook) and it gets tight, no room for a thick bolt head and washer.
#19
Beach Bum
I used the square type carriage bolt. The square did catch just enough to grab and I had to tap it in with a hammer. If the square portion does not catch than friction on the head of bolt should still be enough to tighten.
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I used the square type carriage bolt. The square did catch just enough to grab and I had to tap it in with a hammer. If the square portion does not catch than friction on the head of bolt should still be enough to tighten.
#21
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I had zero problems with the RE links and some drop brackets, have plenty of clearance from the spring and nowhere near hitting the bumper retainer. Try some aftermarket links and see if that solves your problem, or make your own. Either way it's a real cheap fix. Actually now that I look at my picture it looks like my bumper retaining bolts are in different spots. Hmmmmm.....
EDIT: Looks like the PO just took those bolts out. Guess that's always an option.
EDIT: Looks like the PO just took those bolts out. Guess that's always an option.
#22
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Originally Posted by ddurgin91
I had zero problems with the RE links and some drop brackets, have plenty of clearance from the spring and nowhere near hitting the bumper retainer. Try some aftermarket links and see if that solves your problem, or make your own. Either way it's a real cheap fix. Actually now that I look at my picture it looks like my bumper retaining bolts are in different spots. Hmmmmm.....
EDIT: Looks like the PO just took those bolts out. Guess that's always an option.
EDIT: Looks like the PO just took those bolts out. Guess that's always an option.
#23
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This seems like an appearance vs. function dilemma. Are you able to just remove that bolt, are there other tie-ins like on mine? And may I ask what's with using modded stock links? Why not just spend $30 and get an aftermarket pair?
#24
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Originally Posted by ddurgin91
This seems like an appearance vs. function dilemma. Are you able to just remove that bolt, are there other tie-ins like on mine? And may I ask what's with using modded stock links? Why not just spend $30 and get an aftermarket pair?
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Oh okay I see. This is what I went with for quick discos with my aftermarket links. If you ever do decide to get a decent set of aftermarket links but don't want to shell out 200+ bucks for jks stuff I'd do these. They're really quick and a whole lot cheaper than the quicker discos.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90293a413/=z97ns0
Not sure if that's the actual useable length required so if you do go that route I would double check measurements.
Have you considered a WJ sway bar? I think the dimensions are different. I know I've seen a write-up somewhere.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90293a413/=z97ns0
Not sure if that's the actual useable length required so if you do go that route I would double check measurements.
Have you considered a WJ sway bar? I think the dimensions are different. I know I've seen a write-up somewhere.
#27
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Originally Posted by ddurgin91
Oh okay I see. This is what I went with for quick discos with my aftermarket links. If you ever do decide to get a decent set of aftermarket links but don't want to shell out 200+ bucks for jks stuff I'd do these. They're really quick and a whole lot cheaper than the quicker discos.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90293a413/=z97ns0
Not sure if that's the actual useable length required so if you do go that route I would double check measurements.
Have you considered a WJ sway bar? I think the dimensions are different. I know I've seen a write-up somewhere.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90293a413/=z97ns0
Not sure if that's the actual useable length required so if you do go that route I would double check measurements.
Have you considered a WJ sway bar? I think the dimensions are different. I know I've seen a write-up somewhere.
#28
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Grind the bolt down with a 36grit flapper. It's under a shear load not a tension load, so grinding the head won't affect it.
#29
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Thanks for all the replies! And suggestions! Ideally I wish the manufacturer had used square holes and carriage bolts but I guess I can't really change that now so this will have to do. Thanks again!
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