swapping axles today, question about bleeding brakes
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Salem Nh
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im swapping my rear axle out today. i just had a quick question, how do i go about bleeding the brakes properly? lol sorry if it seems like a dumb question
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Northeast CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 1
From: Salem Nh
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
From: Northeast CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lol. its really not that hard, start with the tire furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) then work your way to the closest. have a friend sit in the driver seat, pump the brakes, hold the brake pedal to the floor then you loosen the bleeder screw and air/brake fluid will come spitting out, tighten the screw and have your friend start pumping again.
the idea is to get just fluid coming out of the bleeder, no air/bubbles or anything of the sort. just make sure you keep putting brake fluid in the master cylinder so you dont suck any air in, then you'll have to start all over again
the idea is to get just fluid coming out of the bleeder, no air/bubbles or anything of the sort. just make sure you keep putting brake fluid in the master cylinder so you dont suck any air in, then you'll have to start all over again
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 1
From: Salem Nh
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lol. its really not that hard, start with the tire furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) then work your way to the closest. have a friend sit in the driver seat, pump the brakes, hold the brake pedal to the floor then you loosen the bleeder screw and air/brake fluid will come spitting out, tighten the screw and have your friend start pumping again.
the idea is to get just fluid coming out of the bleeder, no air/bubbles or anything of the sort. just make sure you keep putting brake fluid in the master cylinder so you dont suck any air in, then you'll have to start all over again
the idea is to get just fluid coming out of the bleeder, no air/bubbles or anything of the sort. just make sure you keep putting brake fluid in the master cylinder so you dont suck any air in, then you'll have to start all over again
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 132
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From: Haleyville al
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A lil tip to save some work if ul jus open the bleeder valve and let it sit for bout 20 until brake fluid starts comin out and then bleed them. It may b wrong but thats how iv always done it. It saves alot of pumping!
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Northeast CT
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
are you switching just the drums? or the whole assembly? changing drum brakes definitely isn't my favorite thing to do. all those damn springs and everything, its pretty tedious. the way i usually do it is keep one side together so i can use it for a reference while putting the other side back together
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Salem Nh
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by rweaver138
are you switching just the drums? or the whole assembly? changing drum brakes definitely isn't my favorite thing to do. all those damn springs and everything, its pretty tedious. the way i usually do it is keep one side together so i can use it for a reference while putting the other side back together
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