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Yes shock length is combination of combined compromising
Going back to the brakes dragging. Ive seen the nose of the bolts that hold the calipers on push on the inner brake pad. You might see if that is happening.
I ordered new hubs and bearings, cheap insurance since I was going to be in there anyway. They'll be here tomorrow so I'll tear down and investigate when they come in.
Good thing I bought new hubs cause the bearings in the ones on there are shot. I did notice that I couldn't get the brake caliper off until I loosened the bleeder screw. Are new brake bags for this Jeep supposed to have angled corners? I attached pics of the pad that's on the caliper piston side but the other side looks similar, the side edges are worn at an angle with grind marks... Looks no bueno to me
Just to at a follow up on this thread to catch everyone interested up to where we are now... Today I replaced all the knuckle bolts for the tie rod and the drag link with 3/4" hardware. Replaced all the heim joints, left and right threads ( had to stop installing last week and order left hand threaded heims..ooops!) The steering wheel is upside down and I know I can fix it with the Trac bar but it's going to get aligned anyway so let them worry about it lol. I replaced both front hubs and bearings, replaced both brake calipers as the old one wasn't returning all the way on the passenger side so I figured might as well replacemen everything while I'm in there. Bled the system and the pedal feels great now, before it was spongy and almost to the floor. Installed new longer stainless lines as the stainless lines that were on it were I guess too big so the previous owner ground the end down to fit the caliper properly so I replaced them. Going to put on the twin tube steering stabilizer tomorrow and fingers crossed that everything feels good. The best part of the day was that my son learned a lot about working on cars. He told me today that he wants to go to school for engineering cause he wants to work in the Auto industry.... That's worth all the work right there.
You better get to twisting on the drag link and get wheel centerd before it goes in. Id just about bet it is still off a 1/4 turn when they say its done.
Yes pads look normal.
Theres a lip on tge rotor thats why you had to let tension if caliper to get it off
Got everything together and drive her a good 10 miles today. Everything worked great. No death wobble, no brake issues but the front end still feels like it's floating. Not sure why but it just feels very light and floaty. Not sure if putting on a front bumper will help with the added weight or if it's something else. Local dude that has a Cherokee with 35's said he would get adjustable lower control arms too cause the axle looked a bit too far rearward compared to his. I'm gonna order adjustable lower control arms next time he gets paid then take it for an alignment. Would this make the front end feel at I'm trying to describe? Or maybe it just needs added weight of a bumper? It's not terrible but definitely doesn't feel the Cherokee I had back in the 90's either
Make sure your tires are not overinflated. Overinflation leads to tramlining which is similar to what you described. I didn't see what size tire but if 31s or larger you likely only need 20-28lbs psi to have a properly inflated tire. If this is part of the problem then lowering the psi will make a significant difference in handling.
It can be castor as well causing the steering to be too responsive. Your adjustables will help with that for sure.
Make sure your tires are not overinflated. Overinflation leads to tramlining which is similar to what you described. I didn't see what size tire but if 31s or larger you likely only need 20-28lbs psi to have a properly inflated tire. If this is part of the problem then lowering the psi will make a significant difference in handling.
It can be castor as well causing the steering to be too responsive. Your adjustables will help with that for sure.
Good thread.
Tires are 35's and are brand new so I'm assuming the shop set the tire pressure to whatever the sidewall says. I'll check today
Make sure your tires are not overinflated. Overinflation leads to tramlining which is similar to what you described. I didn't see what size tire but if 31s or larger you likely only need 20-28lbs psi to have a properly inflated tire. If this is part of the problem then lowering the psi will make a significant difference in handling.
It can be castor as well causing the steering to be too responsive. Your adjustables will help with that for sure.
Good thread.
Checked the tires and they were at 46. I took em down to 34. It did make a marked improvement but I think it's the castor. Getting a angle finder gauge tomorrow hopefully and I'll see if I can get 6 degrees without getting lower adj. Control arms. I think the truck is safe now, I put an exhaust on it yesterday and drove it around and it never went into death wobble or veered off course but still don't like the way the front end feels, especially when starting from a stop or at low speed. Once going 15-20 it's much better kinda like the axle finds its own center. That's why I'm thinking it's castor.
Not sure if anyone is still following this mess lol. I am finally finished! I checked Castor and it was at 12 degrees so I adjusted the upper control arms and brought it back to 7 on each side. I added a spacer to the drag link at the knuckle to raise it up so now it's EXACTLY parallel to the Trac bar. It drives like a new car!! Installed new O2 sensors and a cat back exhaust. Drove it 13 miles and now it won't rev over 2500 RPM and the cel light is still on from the after cat O2. I think the cat is shot... Ordered one tonight. Will report back
Last edited by Steelhumm; Jul 26, 2021 at 07:46 PM.
Damn thats alot of castor.
But im convinced the two black tubes with red lettering currency it..
Glad you guys got it driving well again.
I think Jeep recommends something like 6-8? Is that correct or should I take it down even lower? As far as the two black tubes..... Not sure what word currency was supposed to be🤷♂️😬😂
7 is perfect its on the upper end but is just a imaginary number
With crude methods like we have to measure castor your actual number could be different but matters none. You can fine tune around this point in either direction.
How are you adjusting castor? 12-7 on the positive side is alot of castor shims and is all on the positive side. I can adjustin the range you mention but have a double adjustable upper and adjustable lowers. I think your arms are fixed.
Either way tune driving characteristics not the imaginary number. Also watch pinion angle
7 is perfect its on the upper end but is just a imaginary number
With crude methods like we have to measure castor your actual number could be different but matters none. You can fine tune around this point in either direction.
How are you adjusting castor? 12-7 on the positive side is alot of castor shims and is all on the positive side. I can adjustin the range you mention but have a double adjustable upper and adjustable lowers. I think your arms are fixed.
Either way tune driving characteristics not the imaginary number. Also watch pinion angle
On the advise of Hodgexj1996, I ordered Clayton adjustable upper control arms. When I installed them I measured the stock arms, which I believe were 14 1/4" long and matched the Clayton's to them. After installing and noticing how the drive sucked I did research on castor and extended the arms until I got to 7 degrees according to the top of the ball joint. Once I got the driver's side set at 7, I brought the passenger side out until it lined up to the bushing and both sides were dead on 7 degrees. I don't like how much we had to turn out the threads, there's still plenty of thread left but I still think I'm going to order drop brackets so I can bring the arms back in a few threads.
