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The codes are active I believe... I'll check after the new computer arrives.
I NEED HELP!!!! We busted out a$$es for three hours until my son had to go to work trying to install the driver's side upper control arm bushing over the pumpkin. I got the old one out with my trusty long throw air hammer... It can out fairly easy but the old one was only pressed half on. I know why!! I'm using the ball joint press with an impact that has the most ugga-duggas you can buy and it won't press the bushing the entire way in! I've got it pressed on more than the old one was, it's in enough that it's coming through the other end but it's just not all the way. I tried putting the bushing in the freezer for a day, tried heating the housing... Nothing. It's actually starting to bend the retaining ring on the new Moog bushing. Is this pressed in enough?
Last edited by Steelhumm; Jul 14, 2021 at 05:29 PM.
I dont think its supposed to go all the way. I installed a iron rock flex joint and I think I remember it having a step on it. I think factory was slightly offset to one side
I dont think its supposed to go all the way. I installed a iron rock flex joint and I think I remember it having a step on it. I think factory was slightly offset to one side
Ok cool...I know it's definitely pressed past the step. I've seen YouTube videos of guys installing them in both directions so hopefully putting the flange on the passenger side of the bracket will work. I guess we'll find out lol
Nevermind...I don't like it at all, I ordered a new set of bushings and will redo it tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know it only goes in until the step cause I would of pulled out the 25 pound Sledge next!! 😂😂
Last edited by Steelhumm; Jul 15, 2021 at 01:50 AM.
Looks like I pressed mine in the other way. I think it does matter wich side its pressed in to line up with frame side.
mine is a flex joint so is more forgiving on being in line or not.
just checked my other two axles and both are pressed in from driver side means arm are is slightly offset outward on axle
Looks like I pressed mine in the other way. I think it does matter wich side its pressed in to line up with frame side.
mine is a flex joint so is more forgiving on being in line or not.
just checked my other two axles and both are pressed in from driver side means arm are is slightly offset outward on axle
I like that you have long brake lines
No worries... The problem is being corrected lol. I got the new set of bushings in today and they are in the freezer. Tomorrow I'll bang the new old ones back out and throw em away and install the new new ones. I have a box of brand new stainless brake lines for front and rear that I'm going to be putting on as soon as I'm done installing the suspension crap. The brakes and clutch feel horrible so I figure while I'm going to bleed them anyway I might as well replace them with the stainless ones first.
Parts are starting to come in so the work continues.... My son gets his license on the 21st so I'm getting up against it here real quick.
I drilled the original holes out to 1/2" and used this chart I found on here while doing some searching on how long to set the upper control arms. I set to roughly 15 1/4" but the driver's I had to lengthen a few turns after it's initial measurement cause I was way off on the axle bracket over the pumpkin. It was short about 4 turns. It's on there now but I'm not too sure how to know if it's adjusted correctly or not?
Dirt life on you tube has some good videos on getting axle aligned geometry. I used to be super picky but have found for me that doesn't pay 4 turns probably isn't even a full 1/4"
when setting castor i remove one upper arm bolt. Sett it with the single arm then adjust the other arm to match.
Well...$HIT!!! Got everything done, new control arms new bushings, new Heim joints, new bigger grade 8 hardware all around, new Trac bar bushings, moved the drag link to the top of the Pitnam arm, made everything as straight and parallel as possible. Didn't install the steering stabilizer so I could feel if anything was still not good. Drove it about 5 miles or so around town. No death wobble, got it to about 50 but didn't have the ***** to go faster than that. The front just feels darty.... Hard to explain but it feels really light and bouncy. Steering is tight, no play at all in the steering wheel. After a couple miles it started pulling left when driving straight.... Then when you hit the spongy brake it would pull right.... HARD!!! The smell off burning brakes was STRONG!! Got home and the front rims were glowing red. I jacked the front end up and the brakes are locked on the driver's side and the passenger side is definitely rubbing cause it's hard to turn. It's not in four wheel cause with the truck on Jack stands you can turn the tires (if you break free of the stuck brakes)and the driveshaft turns but the transmission is in first gear and the truck isn't rocking so I know it's in 2 wheel drive. I'm about ready to sell this damn thing... So frustrating......
Last edited by Steelhumm; Jul 19, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
That is the problem with old rigs, they need work. Get your brakes straightened out, you will be much happier. You might want to replace those brake lines. They are probably the cause of the calipers not releasing
That is the problem with old rigs, they need work. Get your brakes straightened out, you will be much happier. You might want to replace those brake lines. They are probably the cause of the calipers not releasing
The stainless lines are already on, I was mistaken earlier. The previous owner gave me new stainless lines for the rear wheels but he installed the new lines on the fronts when he put new drilled/slotted rotors and new pads. It was too hot to take the wheel off and investigate today after our ride but I'll get at them tomorrow and see what's up... I'm thinking the slides on the knuckle are probably worn... I'll report back
I think part of the floppy darty feel is of course the drag in either the brakes or the knuckle and also the shocks... Not sure what they are but they click and clack when I push down on the fender and have like no resistance at all. With my lift measuring 5" what length shock should I buy? Thanks guys!!
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
As far as shock length goes, I don't advocate just buying a shock for a specific lift height. For instance, a shock for Skyjacker front coils with a high spring rate would not need to be as long as say a soft Clayton or Rusty's low spring rate coils because those coils would be longer. I measure the distance at full extension and match the shock to that, then bump stop so the shock would not be damaged if collapsed fullhy
