ExpeditionXJ

I'm needing some help,

Both sides of the frame have a 3rd bolt hole that is unused by the factory cross member. My TNT long arm belly pan /cross member requires using these. One of these additional bolt holes stripped when torquing the bolt to 25ft lbs (still trying to figure out how). I have a few questions:

1.) There's still threads in the bolt hole, but there's some lateral play once the bolt is about to bottom out. Even after I cleaned up the threads, tightening the grade 5 bolts to 25ft lbs destroys the threads on the bolt. I'm able to get an old rusty factory bolt torqued to 25ft lbs without issue (they appear to be a higher grade). The rust may be providing additional bite. Should I just use a factory bolt and call it good?

2.) Does anyone know if the these holes are nutserts or welded nuts? If they're actual nuts do you think there's enough metal for a helicoil?

3.) All the repair methods I've found have required cutting and welding. I'm going to see if fishing a bolt through one of the frame openings is an option.If someone has another idea please let me know.

4.) In addition to the the 3 bolts on each side that mount to the bottom of the frame, the belly pan/crossmember has support brackets that are bolted through the sides of the frame. A 1" thick bolt on each side torqued to 150ftlbs secures the belly pan to these supports. Given this is in place, and there's still 2 bottom bolts on the side that's stripped, would you feel safe running it as is and saving fixing the the stripped nutsert for when I do frame stiffeners (some day).

I appreciate the help.

XJlimitedx99

Using the factory bolt would be better than nothing, but something should be done about that. I believe those are welded in nuts, but probably not enough meat to trust a helicoil.

I broke three out of the four original crossmember bolts when installing my TnT crossmember. I ended up pulling the seats and carpet to allow room to drill from the top and drop new bolts in from the top. This was the best fix I could do without welding in new nuts and it works well but is a super PITA anytime the crossmember has to be dropped.

Im confused about your 4th point, but I will say I wouldnt run it without having all the fasteners in place. They are designed to work together to fully constrain the crossmember in place. Missing some could allow movement in a certain direction.

ExpeditionXJ

Thanks for the info and advice. My 4th point was essentially: would it be safe to run with the just two original crossmember bolts and the inner frame support on one side. It's the forward most nut that's stripped. I was extremely careful when I tapped it (it's not tapped from the factory), and there was no wiggle room until after I first torqued it down. Because of its location I may be able to fish a bolt through the frames opening by the lower control arm mount.

Photontraveler

Buy a 7/16-14 tap and re-thread it. Don't drill the hole. Just run the tap up into it carefully. Don't buy a cheap tap for this job. Use grease on the tap. Be patient and work the tap back and forth cleaning the metal particles off often. I did all four of mine two years ago, no problems. Buy 7/16-14 grade 8 bolts a little longer than stock and lock washers. Use blue lock-tight. I had to widen the holes in my cross-member slightly. The 7/16-14 will fit the hole but its tight. Your life will be a lot easier if you slightly widen the holes. If you are apprehensive just try the one you stripped and see how you like it.

2000CHERO

This. I drilled and tapped all 6 OEM holes (3 on each side) for the B Lee crossmember. Took an hour total for all six. No need to drill through that seems like a pain.

ExpeditionXJ

Good to hear! I bought a giant Irwin tap and die set last month so I have that covered.

I appreciate the responses.

Fred/N0AZZ

Now just take a month off work and get it done

ExpeditionXJ

I know right! I was hoping to have most of this done before it got hot here in Texas. That's not going to happen. I am going to try to take next week off though. That reminds me, I need to update my journal.

srb53150

frame stiffeners should be done before or at the same time as the tnt belly pan. when i did this set up i didnt trust any of the six factory nuts welded inside the frame for the future use of holding the 3 link going on and for removing & replacing those bolts in the future. after some careful measuring & marking, i had 3 7/16" flange nuts welded on to a 1/8 " thick narrow strip of steel that got slid inside the old frame rail bottom & tacked in place after the old nuts were hole sawed out. so now i got new bolts into new nuts, when the frame stiffener goes on its all sealed up & super strong. tnt highly recommends frame stiffeners too, plus all the drilling that gets done for the tnt pan only needs to be done one time if the frame stiff. are done first. i been through all this.

ExpeditionXJ

I agree this would be ideal. However, I don't have a welder or know how to weld yet. It's something I plan on in the future. Right now I have a ton of work to do on this jeep. My goal is to at least get it drivable soon, and out of my garage. Yes I'll have to redrill some holes and refit new crush sleeves when I do the frame stiffeners, but the alternative is delaying the rest of my front suspension until I'm comfortable with my welding abilities.

And no, I will not ask someone to do the welding for me. It's something I really need to learn and start doing myself. Lol

Thanks for the reply.

Fred/N0AZZ

on the welding!

cpdet

Followed these exact instructions this afternoon on my 89 Laredo. I did both of the bolts on the passenger side, only did the rear on the driver side. There were studs and nuts on the driver side, and the driver side rear stud backed out as I turned on the nut with a ratchet. 3 out of 4 ain't bad! Performed this while replacing the transfer case mount. I have the Peuguot 5spd, 203,609mi.

cpdet

Forgot to add that the stud that didn't remove on the fwd driver side was still snug!

ExpeditionXJ

Good to hear! Thanks for sharing. I need to get around to doing the same.

NM-XJ

Dredging this up again as I created this problem for myself today.

Maybe I'm going overboard but...what kind of tap did you use? Hand tap or spiral point? Taper, plug, or bottoming?

My nutsert is still welded in, and I want to do everything I can to avoid any more excavation or surgery. Retapping and never touching it again would be ideal.