Hi everyone, first post! Looking forward to exploring the wealth of knowledge here. Hopefully someone can help me get my jeep rolling again.

I have a new, to me, '98 XJ and it's already kicking my butt. Reminds me of old times when I had a '89.

Here's the situation. I was attempting to install a Powertrax No-Slip locker in the 8.25 rear end. When I removed the pinion shaft bolt/pin it broke, unless it was broken already. Seems to be a common issue. No problem, I'll just drill it and extract it - Nope. The extractor bit caught and then snapped as it was backing out. I removed what I could with a pick, but couldn't get all of it out of the bolt. Now it's preventing any progress with a drill bit. I've tried several different cobalt bits, but I think I spun the remaining threads beyond the hole threads so it's wedged I think. Oops.

So now I'm into trying to drill into the pinion shaft itself to get access to the bolt/pin to get it out. I can't get anything more than a dimple into the pin; I'm assuming it's hardened steel. I've tried so many different cobalt bits, and oil as i go.

I'm thinking about getting a dremel or die grinder to try, but still don't know what bit or wheel would cut it.

Any ideas from the experts, or anyone who's experienced this before? I also purchased one of the kits for this that comes with the cored out screw and long drill bit, but I think the broken extractor bit screwed me on any more drilling attempts.

Here are some photos:

Initial Break (What I would give to get back to this point)


Failed extraction attempt.




Current situation.



Dimples after several minutes of drilling.

 

Id remove the unit so you can work on it on a bench, and drill press or vertical mill. using a hand drill, in an akward position, with a long extension on the drill is setting yourself up for fail. you need to be dead center drilling. a center drill should be used for initial drilling, a center drill is much less flexy than a twist drill. once a center drill dimple is made, follow with a small pilot drill, using great care to keep the drill in perfect alignment to the busted bolt.

also heat is your friend! on the bench, with oil cleaned out, judicial application of heat around the busted bolt can do wonders to loosen stuck studs and busted bolt. a high heat oxy acetylene torch is recommend, with apropreate sized tip. a wide flame, low heat propane plumbers soldering torch is not near as effective. you want high heat and a small tip to get the most heat into the casting near the busted bolt, and do it quickly so as to not heat the bolt itself as much as the casting around it.

Go slow, take your time, use the right tools, have good access (which you currently dont have) use heat. a screw up doing this can ruin your carrier$$$$$$😣


I had to drill out a busted bolt like that on an ARB carrier. It was an allen head that got the hex stripped, and it was counter sunk. I did it on a mill, but a drill press would have worked too. that bolt was hardened, very tough. I drilled it out for an extractor, the biggest extractor that will fit, AND I needed to use heat before it began to move, the heat was the final trick, I tried it cold, and feared that Id break the extractor given the torque on it, but once I added the heat, it came out nicely.

it all came down to good set up, and heat.

good luck, keep us posted!

 

As the pinion shaft is considerably harder that the pinion bolt, I would try pressing the shaft out (or wailing on it) to shear the remaining bolt off.

 

The carrier can't come out till you pull the axles.

You can't pull the axles till you remove the C-clips.

You can't remove the C-clips till you take out the...

...you guessed it.

 

Or as you head past the point of no return, get a right angle grinder and cut through the carrier:

 

Or drill here: