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Stock or near stock WMS to WMS front D44

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Old 01-22-2014, 03:38 AM
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Default Stock or near stock WMS to WMS front D44

Whats the best axle to use to change out my front D30 on my '87 to a D44 which would be the same width or as close as I can get? I'm gonna be doing the WJ knuckle swap so bolt pattern and such shouldn't be an issue. Or am I good if I just truss the D30? Thanks
Old 01-22-2014, 03:42 AM
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What size tires you plan on running?
Old 01-22-2014, 03:44 AM
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35's. But I might be able to score some decent 38's for cheap so if I do I'll be running those until they're bald then go to 35's. Or if I get a deal on 35's I'll just go straight to that
Old 01-22-2014, 03:48 AM
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35's is the limit for a d30 so if you wanted longevity from it you would want to truss it and get cromo axle shafts
Old 01-22-2014, 03:51 AM
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Ok thanks.
Old 01-22-2014, 06:45 AM
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I think waggy 44's would be close to stock width. If I recall correctly it's slightly shorter than xj width. It's s leaf spring axle, so u would have to weld on coil seats and arm mounts and stuff. Make sure it's drivers side drop, because certain years used passenger side drops.

They use 6 bolt pattern though, and i don't know if WJ knuckles would work
Old 01-22-2014, 07:34 AM
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The only bolt-in D44 is from an 03-06 Rubicon. Not a true D44 and it's low pinion as well, so only marginally stronger than a HP D30.

Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.

You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.

Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
Old 01-22-2014, 05:30 PM
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I went the 44/9" swap jeeps wheel base went from 101.5x73 to 105.5x75
Old 01-22-2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
The only bolt-in D44 is from an 03-06 Rubicon. Not a true D44 and it's low pinion as well, so only marginally stronger than a HP D30.

Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.

You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.

Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
Looks like I already got a HP under my Jeep Stock or near stock WMS to WMS front D44-img_5176.jpg
Old 01-24-2014, 08:31 AM
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1980 and newer jeep wagoneer dana 44,It will take some cutting and welding before it will bolt in.It is a 6 lug but that can be changed to a 5 lug if needed.What rear end do you have now and are you going to change it or not?
Old 01-24-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 87p89lCherokee
Looks like I already got a HP under my Jeep

Non Disco HP. As in one without the vaccuum controlled axle disconnect.
Old 01-24-2014, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
1980 and newer jeep wagoneer dana 44,It will take some cutting and welding before it will bolt in.It is a 6 lug but that can be changed to a 5 lug if needed.What rear end do you have now and are you going to change it or not?
Got the D44 in the back. For the most part Im just gonna keep that one. Its more a DD than a off road rig
Old 01-24-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by heydockyle
Non Disco HP. As in one without the vaccuum controlled axle disconnect.
Is there a major strength difference with mines compared to a non disco? And what if I just permanently lock the disco part?
Old 01-24-2014, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 87p89lCherokee
Is there a major strength difference with mines compared to a non disco? And what if I just permanently lock the disco part?
I think there's mixed opinion on which is stronger. Some say the cad axles are stronger because of the solid uca mount and cad area itself. Others think the non-cad are stronger. The biggest advantage I see with the non-cad is that you can buy off the shelf trusses and with the cad you'll have to build your own.

I see no reason to swap your axle out just because it's a cad axle. You can either shim the collar over the two piece shaft or swap over to the later shafts with larger u-joints and cover the hole for the cad with a 1/4" plate. You'd need to swap the axle seals to make them work though.

Last edited by emptypockets; 01-24-2014 at 11:26 AM.
Old 01-24-2014, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by emptypockets
I think there's mixed opinion on which is stronger. Some say the cad axles are stronger because of the solid uca mount and cad area itself. Others think the non-cad are stronger. The biggest advantage I see with the non-cad is that you can buy off the shelf trusses and with the cad you'll have to build your own.

I see no reason to swap your axle out just because it's a cad axle. You can either shim the collar over the two piece shaft or swap over to the later shafts with larger u-joints and cover the hole for the cad with a 1/4" plate. You'd need to swap the axle seals to make them work though.
Cool thanks for the info. If anything I'll permanently lock the disco or put in a posi-lok. Ill look into the bigger u-joints and what I can do for a truss


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