Stock or near stock WMS to WMS front D44
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Year: 1987/1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
Stock or near stock WMS to WMS front D44
Whats the best axle to use to change out my front D30 on my '87 to a D44 which would be the same width or as close as I can get? I'm gonna be doing the WJ knuckle swap so bolt pattern and such shouldn't be an issue. Or am I good if I just truss the D30? Thanks
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Year: 1987/1989
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Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
35's. But I might be able to score some decent 38's for cheap so if I do I'll be running those until they're bald then go to 35's. Or if I get a deal on 35's I'll just go straight to that
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I think waggy 44's would be close to stock width. If I recall correctly it's slightly shorter than xj width. It's s leaf spring axle, so u would have to weld on coil seats and arm mounts and stuff. Make sure it's drivers side drop, because certain years used passenger side drops.
They use 6 bolt pattern though, and i don't know if WJ knuckles would work
They use 6 bolt pattern though, and i don't know if WJ knuckles would work
#7
The only bolt-in D44 is from an 03-06 Rubicon. Not a true D44 and it's low pinion as well, so only marginally stronger than a HP D30.
Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.
You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.
Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.
You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.
Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 ho 99 intake ps pump 1" tb spacer 62mm bored tb eletric fans and more
I went the 44/9" swap jeeps wheel base went from 101.5x73 to 105.5x75
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Year: 1987/1989
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Engine: Straight 6 4.0l
The only bolt-in D44 is from an 03-06 Rubicon. Not a true D44 and it's low pinion as well, so only marginally stronger than a HP D30.
Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.
You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.
Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
Grab a non-disco HP from any junkyard and build it instead of your current disco D30.
You could swap in a set of JK D44's, pricey but do-able.
Full width axles are also possible. You can run wheels with lots of backspacing to keep the tires tucked under the rig if you want. D44/9" combo is fairly common.
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1980 and newer jeep wagoneer dana 44,It will take some cutting and welding before it will bolt in.It is a 6 lug but that can be changed to a 5 lug if needed.What rear end do you have now and are you going to change it or not?
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Year: 1987/1989
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Got the D44 in the back. For the most part Im just gonna keep that one. Its more a DD than a off road rig
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I see no reason to swap your axle out just because it's a cad axle. You can either shim the collar over the two piece shaft or swap over to the later shafts with larger u-joints and cover the hole for the cad with a 1/4" plate. You'd need to swap the axle seals to make them work though.
Last edited by emptypockets; 01-24-2014 at 11:26 AM.
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Year: 1987/1989
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I think there's mixed opinion on which is stronger. Some say the cad axles are stronger because of the solid uca mount and cad area itself. Others think the non-cad are stronger. The biggest advantage I see with the non-cad is that you can buy off the shelf trusses and with the cad you'll have to build your own.
I see no reason to swap your axle out just because it's a cad axle. You can either shim the collar over the two piece shaft or swap over to the later shafts with larger u-joints and cover the hole for the cad with a 1/4" plate. You'd need to swap the axle seals to make them work though.
I see no reason to swap your axle out just because it's a cad axle. You can either shim the collar over the two piece shaft or swap over to the later shafts with larger u-joints and cover the hole for the cad with a 1/4" plate. You'd need to swap the axle seals to make them work though.