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stock control arm angle

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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #1  
1999xjlk's Avatar
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inside
Default stock control arm angle

ok so i have installed my lift and if you go by what all the parts where supposed to lift i would be around 3.75in rear and 4.75 front but im sitting level.
im running stock control arms right now ?????? this goes against everything i have read, in my opinion my axle still looks center idk

Parts list installed suspension wise
_______________________________
2.5 Old man emu HD leafs
1.5 Terraflex shackle
3 HD rustys coil (only because of winch and ARB bumper) they seemed short anyway
1.5 Terraflex coil spacer
Old Man Emu JK steering stablizer
JKS quick dissconnets
Bilstien shocks on there way
stock track bar with re drilled bracket
Brand new Copper Discoverer STT 32x11.50x15r (would reccomend to anyone)
alignment done a week ago


anyway im not really getting any death wobble but every pot hole i hit sure does feel like im going out of control(very hard bounce? idk how to explain it) like for a split second, happens more at slow speeds in town when i hit pot holes

im attaching pics for everyone to analyse BTW the ghetto shock extenders are gone now that i have new shocks coming
Attached Thumbnails stock control arm angle-2013-04-16_15-59-58_689.jpg   stock control arm angle-2013-04-16_16-00-14_370.jpg  
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
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more pics
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inside
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..
Attached Thumbnails stock control arm angle-2013-04-15_15-49-27_451-1-.jpg   stock control arm angle-2013-04-13_18-58-40_813.jpg  
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:14 PM
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From: Dalton, MA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. 180K miles
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You need longer control arms, right now your caster is way off and thats causing the bumpsteer. If the shim bolts arent too rusty you could shim your stock arms forward about as far as you can, that would help but I suggest getting adjustable arms.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inside
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Does caster affect tire wear in anyway? If so ill get the control arms rights away
Will I need a alignment after the new arms are in?
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #6  
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From: Dalton, MA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. 180K miles
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Your toe specs shouldn't be off, but you should get adjustables to fix that caster as soon as you have the money. I had stock arms on 3" front lift for a couple years now and haven't had any problems with alignment other than some minor bumpsteer. The bumpsteer you are feeling is putting some extra stress on your steering components. Aligning the caster is pretty straight forward and you can do it yourself. This link will help with that.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Okay first off, you need an alignment. When you lift, its necessary to do. Second, the bumpsteer is more than likely the poor alignment specs. And finally, you spend all the money and bought high quality parts (OME, JKS) and cheaper out on the most important part? Re drilling the track bar bracket is stupid. I know that everyone who has done it is gonna jump on and be like "I have the stock track bar and I am super hardcore!!!!) But in all reality, the track bar is one of the most important parts of your lift. Get an adjustable track bar.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inside
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I had a alignment when I had my tires put in, im going with a JKS tracbar and lower control arms next paycheck just wanted to know if a bad caster angle will cause any sort of tire wear, trust me the stock tracbar and arms are only merely to get by for a few more weeks till I can afford top quality parts
or atleast correct ones
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inside
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Only off road in my jeeps future is drummound island jeep jamboree other wise just highway driving
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:19 PM
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From: Tx
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
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Originally Posted by BNJeepsta
Okay first off, you need an alignment. When you lift, its necessary to do. Second, the bumpsteer is more than likely the poor alignment specs. And finally, you spend all the money and bought high quality parts (OME, JKS) and cheaper out on the most important part? Re drilling the track bar bracket is stupid. I know that everyone who has done it is gonna jump on and be like "I have the stock track bar and I am super hardcore!!!!) But in all reality, the track bar is one of the most important parts of your lift. Get an adjustable track bar.
Poor alignment specs might have alittle to do with his bump steer but those stock lowers damn sure arent helping either. I just went thru this on my own jeep I put new longer lowers on and it drives like new. Before you would hit a hole or uneven spot on the road and it was like herding cats.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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From: Kansas City, MO
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 1999xjlk
ok so i have installed my lift and if you go by what all the parts where supposed to lift i would be around 3.75in rear and 4.75 front but im sitting level.
im running stock control arms right now ?????? this goes against everything i have read, in my opinion my axle still looks center idk

Parts list installed suspension wise
_______________________________
2.5 Old man emu HD leafs
1.5 Terraflex shackle
3 HD rustys coil (only because of winch and ARB bumper) they seemed short anyway
1.5 Terraflex coil spacer
Old Man Emu JK steering stablizer
JKS quick dissconnets
Bilstien shocks on there way
stock track bar with re drilled bracket
Brand new Copper Discoverer STT 32x11.50x15r (would reccomend to anyone)
alignment done a week ago


anyway im not really getting any death wobble but every pot hole i hit sure does feel like im going out of control(very hard bounce? idk how to explain it) like for a split second, happens more at slow speeds in town when i hit pot holes

im attaching pics for everyone to analyse BTW the ghetto shock extenders are gone now that i have new shocks coming
Actually, based on the parts you used advertised lift should be 4" in rear and 4.5" in front, but you're probably a bit higher than that.

Shim your LCA's as far forward as possible until you can get new LCA's. Then align it.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #12  
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Dalton, MA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. 180K miles
Default

Originally Posted by BNJeepsta
Okay first off, you need an alignment. When you lift, its necessary to do. Second, the bumpsteer is more than likely the poor alignment specs. And finally, you spend all the money and bought high quality parts (OME, JKS) and cheaper out on the most important part? Re drilling the track bar bracket is stupid. I know that everyone who has done it is gonna jump on and be like "I have the stock track bar and I am super hardcore!!!!) But in all reality, the track bar is one of the most important parts of your lift. Get an adjustable track bar.
Why does he need an alignment? His toe should be fine. If he had that set before the lift the only thing that has changed is the caster, which can be changed with adjustable arms at home. Worst thing he would need to do to the steering links is adjust the drag link a little longer to reset the steering wheel. Yes he should also center the axle again when he gets his track bar, I'm sure he knows this.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:25 PM
  #13  
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Bossokee

Why does he need an alignment? His toe should be fine. If he had that set before the lift the only thing that has changed is the caster, which can be changed with adjustable arms at home. Worst thing he would need to do to the steering links is adjust the drag link a little longer to reset the steering wheel. Yes he should also center the axle again when he gets his track bar, I'm sure he knows this.
Okay I edited my post because I was being rude and sarcastic, so if you read that, I'm sorry. To the op and yourself, I was in a hurry and worded it wrong. When going up that much in tire size, you should have your toe set, it may not need much, but it does need changed.

Last edited by BNJeepsta; Apr 16, 2013 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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1999xjlk's Avatar
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From: Findlay Ohio
Year: 1999 sport
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sooooooooo new lowers it is, my toe should be good since i had it aligned (at shop that specializing in lifted vehicles not walmart) but yeah they said i should look into new lowers as well just didnt know if it was a issue driving it for the time being not trying to chew up a brand new 1000$ set of tires if you all know what i mean... had to order a roller fairlead because my new superwinch everso conveniently came with a hawse not a rollor which will not fit on a ARB bumper without drilling into the bumper .... Just Empty Every Pocket lol
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #15  
BNJeepsta's Avatar
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From: Warren, Pa
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 1999xjlk
sooooooooo new lowers it is, my toe should be good since i had it aligned (at shop that specializing in lifted vehicles not walmart) but yeah they said i should look into new lowers as well just didnt know if it was a issue driving it for the time being not trying to chew up a brand new 1000$ set of tires if you all know what i mean... had to order a roller fairlead because my new superwinch everso conveniently came with a hawse not a rollor which will not fit on a ARB bumper without drilling into the bumper .... Just Empty Every Pocket lol
Did it come with synthetic line? I believe you only use a roller with cable. I could be wrong tho lol
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