Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Stiff rear, no articulation

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Old May 22, 2013 | 09:38 AM
  #31  
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I've been turning my Jeep into a Frankenstein of other Jeep parts, so I may try the MJ leaves. Haha
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Old May 22, 2013 | 09:44 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
I've been turning my Jeep into a Frankenstein of other Jeep parts, so I may try the MJ leaves. Haha
lol whatever works. gotta save $ somewhere, I got my XJ pack for free so just hard ware it cost me.

not sure how different the MJ's are.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #33  
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I think the MJ leafs are longer, I could've swore I read that.

But I'm certain they're spring under, so they might give a lot of lift.

The XJ/XJ bastard pack is intriguing. I will probably try and do one, my leafs on my 99 were shot to begin with now even worse since I've been roding with 1 rear shock for too long.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #34  
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I know they are longer, and give lift because the MJs are spring under axle, unlike the XJ. If using an entire MJ pack it moves the axle back like 3 or 5 inches or something.

I've got projector headlights meant for an MR2 or RX-7. Its got an 89 XJ trans and a 98 TJ tcase. Eventually it'll have a shifter made from a motorcycle chain. Frankenstein.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
I think the MJ leafs are longer, I could've swore I read that.

But I'm certain they're spring under, so they might give a lot of lift.

The XJ/XJ bastard pack is intriguing. I will probably try and do one, my leafs on my 99 were shot to begin with now even worse since I've been roding with 1 rear shock for too long.
ya I had one leafs pack with 100k miles and one with 250k lol. but together they are awesome, many flatter leafs flex better than highly arched leafs.

so MJ pack would be like an s-10 pack and you'll bet around 3-4" of lift.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #36  
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You think with them being longer that you could use the MJ main and have longer leafs, for a better shackle angle without relocators? Just a thought.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #37  
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probly going to push him below 45* depending on the arch. might have a flat shackle with no bump, but droop
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Old May 22, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #38  
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I've been running xj/xj bastard packs for 2 years now on stock shackles. I'm running F150 rear shocks, which have over 10" of travel. I've set my bumpstops for max. up travel, so while it might look like I'm rubbing, I'm not. My stock shackle is the Achilles heel and I've been weighing my options, either lo pro relocation boxes or sliders. Stability is what I'm always striving for vs. insane flex. So far, I'd like to think I've accomplished that.









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Old May 22, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by emptypockets
I've been running xj/xj bastard packs for 2 years now on stock shackles. I'm running F150 rear shocks, which have over 10" of travel. I've set my bumpstops for max. up travel, so while it might look like I'm rubbing, I'm not. My stock shackle is the Achilles heel and I've been weighing my options, either lo pro relocation boxes or sliders. Stability is what I'm always striving for vs. insane flex. So far, I'd like to think I've accomplished that.









did you use the main and 2nd cut down? or just main?

I'll tell you with low pro relo's and longer shackle your shackle won't be any farther down that it is now. and it will flex better allowing more stability.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by danXJ
did you use the main and 2nd cut down? or just main?

I'll tell you with low pro relo's and longer shackle your shackle won't be any farther down that it is now. and it will flex better allowing more stability.
I used all the leafs out of both xj packs, minus the bottom one. I cut the leafs from the extra pack down to size and then radius and chamfered each one.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by emptypockets
I used all the leafs out of both xj packs, minus the bottom one. I cut the leafs from the extra pack down to size and then radius and chamfered each one.
How'd you measure for the bevel?

I can see rounding being rather easy, but getting them angled nicely seems like it'd be a bit of a challenge.
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Old May 22, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
How'd you measure for the bevel?

I can see rounding being rather easy, but getting them angled nicely seems like it'd be a bit of a challenge.
I eyed them up and used a Sharpie as a guide. It takes a good chunk of time, but I'd like to think it was worth it.



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Old May 22, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #43  
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I spose it doesn't HAVE to be perfect....
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Old May 22, 2013 | 11:38 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
I spose it doesn't HAVE to be perfect....
All I did was cut mine. I didn't radius them or anything. Mainly cause I didn't know at the time but I havent had any problems with it.
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Old May 23, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #45  
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Finally got a pic of my rusty junk.

Shackle angle seems worse than I remembered.

I would rather not lift the rear much higher, if any at all. Its at 3", the most I'd really be ok.with is 4".

I'm on 33s now, will someday see 36s. Eventually bigger, but not on stock axles.
Attached Thumbnails Stiff rear, no articulation-2013-05-22_17-26-33_159.jpg   Stiff rear, no articulation-2013-05-22_17-26-50_904.jpg  
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