Steering Help, Currie?
#1
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Year: 1999
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Steering Help, Currie?
Ahhh man another steering post I know I know I just need reassurance though! I've been researching for a while on different steering set ups and I'm interested in the Currie steering but I was looking and it said "it's not intended for use with XJs at a 6in lift" I was on a forum and it seems like many people run Currie at 6in? Just need reassurance on if it is ok.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Ahhh man another steering post I know I know I just need reassurance though! I've been researching for a while on different steering set ups and I'm interested in the Currie steering but I was looking and it said "it's not intended for use with XJs at a 6in lift" I was on a forum and it seems like many people run Currie at 6in? Just need reassurance on if it is ok.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
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I was almost at the "buy now" button on Currie as well until I spoke with a Rep from Currie.. I am currently at 6.5 front 6 in rear with a ZJ and they actually suggested OTK.. Went with IRO OTK steering.. bout 150 cheaper than Currie as well, it is a one ton set up, plus it works up to 8" lift if you decide to bump up a little more down the road.
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http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...c1ce3687968779 Way better kit than the Currie.
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Hahaha, yeah I read all the same crap. Upon further investigating though, more than half of those "bad reviews" were because guys did not install them correctly. There are a few key steps that can easily be overlooked on the install (making sure the draglink is at 5 degree of upward bend) which cause many of the peoples problems (clanking noises, loud turning, etc) amd is crazy easy to overlook. I installed it in about 45 minutes and the driveway alignment is crazy easy with it. Personally I wont run anything else now that I have tried this. My own humble opinion.
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Hahaha, yeah I read all the same crap. Upon further investigating though, more than half of those "bad reviews" were because guys did not install them correctly. There are a few key steps that can easily be overlooked on the install (making sure the draglink is at 5 degree of upward bend) which cause many of the peoples problems (clanking noises, loud turning, etc) amd is crazy easy to overlook. I installed it in about 45 minutes and the driveway alignment is crazy easy with it. Personally I wont run anything else now that I have tried this. My own humble opinion.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
I have the Currie steering on my 6.5". It is extremely stout, very easy to adjust and the bend helps a ton over other setups (hitting sway bar links). It clears my riddler cover no problem.
All that being said, it is still a Y. Leaps and bounds above stock/the Rusty's I ran but if I could do it all over again, I would do the WJ swap or the RuffStuff crossover steering.
All that being said, it is still a Y. Leaps and bounds above stock/the Rusty's I ran but if I could do it all over again, I would do the WJ swap or the RuffStuff crossover steering.
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I have the old school currie setup on the front of mine and it is very stout and I'm not at 6" yet but even at my height and with 33's or 35's on it the setup was wonderful, the only downside to them is if memory serves right with the old and new version is the draglink that goes to the passenger side, if that tie rod end goes out, its a instant $250 bill to replace because they aren't rebuildable and you have to buy another draglink. But even then with mine, it has had to have the other 3 replaced and yet the draglink side was perfectly fine still and its probably 5+ years old now. Honestly currie is the way to go if you just want to have bolt on.
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If I had the knowledge to do the WJ swap I would I plan on doing that later down the road when I actually know how to do it, but for now I think I'll go with currie, I was going to go ORO but I heard it has real bad Ackerman and I don't want my tires wearing super fast on turns. And ORO is super pricey
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that's a fat waste of money. you are better off going with a ZJ tie rod since it will function almost exactly the same at a fraction of the cost. replace the TRE's every 6 months or so or whenever they go bad and call it a day. I still haven't found a valid reason to go with the currie setup unless you find it cheap/used
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that's a fat waste of money. you are better off going with a ZJ tie rod since it will function almost exactly the same at a fraction of the cost. replace the TRE's every 6 months or so or whenever they go bad and call it a day. I still haven't found a valid reason to go with the currie setup unless you find it cheap/used
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For the money off the Currie, you could easily buy everything for the WJ steering and pay the welder the money to do the spacers. I will end up doing that sometime down the c road.
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Yeah same with me I like the benefit of bigger double piston brakes! But keep in mind mines a DD also, so I want something that can be good on the road with occasional wheeling...