I think i posted this in the wrong section the other day so im gonna give it another shot. I went wheeling last weekend and I tired a water crossing that seemed doable, but I underestimated depth and I ended up hydrolocked in water up to the lower 1/4 of my door. It sat like that for 15 minutes and after some winching it ended up about 5 ft from the bank when my battery died.



It sat like this for about 4 hours until I finally got pulled out.

I pulled the plugs, drained the cylinders and cranked the engine. Water shot out about 30 feet. I sprayed some pb blaster into the throttle body and cylinders and she fired right up. Changed the oil and after there were no knocks, ticks or noises. It ran rough home the 100 miles home and the transmission wouldn't shift well but after a new TPS it was running and shifting like it used to. I did a trans fluid change. No water I could see but the fluid was dark brown.

Now the idle is a little rough. Sounds almost like a miss but the rpms only vary a bit. Give or take 25rpms as it idles which I though might work itself out, but when I left work tonight it died in a intersection as I gave it some gas. Started back up after turning over a few times and still ran rough after. I've also been noticing some slight surging as the transmission shifts but only a few times here and there.

What does it sound like? Fuel issue or what? I've already changed the oil several times and ran a whole tank of gas though. My MPGs are significantly down. Thanks for any input.

 

Do you have any codes that came up? I would go through all of the sensors and clean all of the connections and plugs. I would go through all of the grounds as well. Being stuck in the water for a few hours is not really the best thing for electronic parts. I would also pull apart the NSS and clean that too. It could be a bad O2 sensor it could also be that you have water and dirt is side the distributor cap. Any time you hydro-lock a motor you should always change the spark plugs, because they tend to rust up pretty quick.

 

It always shows a CEL so I wasn't alarmed until now. The distributorwas clean from what I could see but I didn't change the spark plugs. Guess I could give that a shot today.

 

For one thing you didn't change enough of the fluids the trans/ transfer case/both differentials/oil/filter. Then before you ever crank it over you pull all the spark plugs (very important) before you ever try turning it over to remove the water from the cyd's so you don't bend a push rod.


I have been down this road several times over the last 40 yrs and learned the hard way on the plugs You still need to change the rest of the fluids out as they water in them also.

 

I've changed the fluid in the trans 3 times and changed the transfer case once. No water in either. I changed the diff fluid but it had little water in it.I just didn't mention it because it wasn't important to the situation. Oil and filter have been done 3 times.

I did pull the spark plugs, I even said it in my post. I pulled them, drained the cylinders of water and cleaned them all off.

Reguardless those fluid changes even if they wernt done wouldn't affect the jeep in the way it is now. It's something fuel or spark but idk where to start.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'd really appreciate it.

 

Recheck your distributor cap and wire connections again and if possible get your vehicle scanned to see if the O2 sensors are working correctly. No sense in throwing money at it till you get that stuff checked out first.

 

Missed the plugs in your first post sorry, when submerged all electrical connections are suspect to having water in them. Did the water get to the bottom of the dash area also? If so look at the dist. first then inside next working your way out.

 

Its cool. i appreciate any input.

I went and got the codes checked finally today.

P0171-Fuel system lean bank 1
P0138-O2 Circuit short to voltage
P0700-Read fault memory ETC
P0740-A/T Torque convertor no lockup
P0122-TP sesnor
P0740-A/T Torque convertor no lockup

The tranny is shifting fine after the TP sensor change so the bottom 3 codes should be good.

The rest point towards O2 sensor right?

 

I would have to go with a solid yes on the O2 sensor. Either dry it out with a heat gun or buy a new one. I'd go with the heat gun first if you've got one. Much cheaper than a new O2 sensor. That would definitely contribute to the crappy mpg and rough run. Give it a go and see what happens.... Be careful with that heat gun though. Get the sensor warmed up real good and then toss it into a container of rice overnight. That should help to dry it out.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll give the heat gun a go. New Bosch ones are only $55 for both on Amazon and mine look very old. Either way that's not to bad. Ill update when I find out if it works.

 

Looks aren't everything. O2 sensors look that way because they're exposed to some very harsh elements. Just saying.... However, if you've got the money to toss around get the new sensors. You can always keep them for a later date. While you're waiting for 'em to show up, do the heat gun and rice thing. Works good on drowned cell phones!!!!

 

True. I had some Amazon gift cards so I ordered some. I'll dry out mine and if they work I can save them.

 

I installed new 02 sensors. It runs better but still rough. Seems to jump at mid throttle sometimes. My trans jumped at shift once to. I guess I'll just have to play it out.

 

The new 02 sensors didn't really help much. I've noticed it's really rough on cold start and it takes more cranks to get the engine to start. The idle is rough and jumpy still but driveable. It is now showing no codes. Any ideas?