Tobyxj

I'm not sure if this is fab or advance tec but I'm thinking of square tube drive shafts any one with input please this is a trailer rig no speeds more then 50 MAX thanks

dubbydoo

i would think anything over 15mph would be to much if its not balanced would wear the joints out fast and prob not good for the pinion

outlawcherokee

they did them on 4X4extreme with no issues and am sure others have as well. Should be no problems as long as you get em centered fairly well.

Lead Foot

I just have to ask. Why ? How hard is it to cut an existing driveline and shorten it? Or buy some tube and lengthen it? It would take less time and be cheaper. If you can build a square driveline then you can make a round one. Square drivelines are actually weaker and a lot noisier. They wear faster. So why?

The_ocho

install zerks so you can keep em lubed

Atmos

I've seen the square tube in the front with lockout hubs. dont put one in the rear if it ever sees the street

Tobyxj

Like slipping a tube inside or on the out side of a stock shaft ? I like this idea better

Tobyxj

Ok I think I might look into this and putting tube in my stock shaft. Or just brake down and buy a Tom woods one lol. Thanks guts

Kuro89

What is the planned setup for this?

Tobyxj

Moab :-)

Lead Foot

Tube with the same outer diameter. Use a piece of angle iron to rest the pieces of tube on so the tube is welded strait. Or even better , use a piece of like 2" channel to rest the tube in. Make sure you get good penetration and weld it up. It will be plenty strong. If you do it right it will be strait, just not perfectly balanced. (more balanced then a square driveline)

To do it the right way, like a driveline shop. Cut the welds on each end of the tubes. You should be able to then hammer off the spline section and the joint section. Buy the tube with an ID that will press fit over the ends that you just Cut the original tube off. To do it right you would put it on a lathe, clean the welded area up so you have a shoulder to press the tube up to. Rotate the lathe and make sure the driveline is running true. Tack, check for trueness again, then weld.

Bustedback

The hardcore Toyota guys have uses square tube shafts for the front for years with no real problems, but those guys have locking hubs and the front shaft does not rotate in 2wd. On a trail only rig it should not be a problem if speeds are kept low. The advantage of the square tube shaft is that you can have a lot of telescoping action as the suspension cycles, and the tubes have about 1/4" wall thickness to make them resistant to rock damage. Plus if you're good with a welder they are pretty cheap tp build and repair on the trail side. You could also use a PTO shaft from Tractor Supply and fab up the ends to work on a Jeep, but I have seen those twist and bind up, they are made in China, so you can draw your own conclusion there.

Tobyxj

The hubs are not a problem for because it's a 44 with locking hubs I guess I should have said that the rear is a 9in. Thanks for all the in put I'll update the out come soon

freegdr

If you ever get hung up on the shaft say on a big rock when the corners of the square hit the rock gotta feeling the out come will not be pretty...

Atmos

I think Adams driveshaft sells them custom length for $200 IIRC