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Sleeper XJ Adams Driveline Flex Test

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:57 PM
  #1  
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Year: 1997
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Default Sleeper XJ Adams Driveline Flex Test

Here is a little on the current specs, we still have some work to do to gain more but this is where she sits now. Our current obstacle is to get more room in the rear, our limiting factor is the rear tire maxing out in the fender well.

235/75/15 on stock rims, ARB Lockers F & R



Front
Old Man Emu 2" front Springs
Rough Country Sway Bar disconnect front (connected in Pics)
Bilstein Shocks

Rear
Rubicon Express 1" Bommerang Shackles
Crown stock height leafs
Rear Sway Bar connected in pics
HD Engineering No Lift Shackle Boxes

Front Up





Rear Stuffing with Front Up



Rear Tire Stuffed with back up..









Rear Shackle with no lift box with rear tire lifted to the max


Last edited by Jrozar; Nov 25, 2014 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 02:22 PM
  #2  
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From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
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That is similar to what I would like to do with my 85xj. Good performance offroad but as near stock as possible.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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What's the point of this if you left your Swaybars connected ?
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 03:06 PM
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If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.

My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?

So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.

Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.

Originally Posted by helmut
What's the point of this if you left your Swaybars connected ?

Last edited by Jrozar; Nov 25, 2014 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrozar
If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.

My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?

So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.

Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.


Well yeah it wouldn't stuff anymore in the rear as there is no room. But what about down travel ? those swaybars are limiting most of it. Especially since you have disconnects I guess IM puzzled as to why they are connected. Your front down travel will probably double. I didn't know this was a "stuffeage" only test.

Last edited by helmut; Nov 25, 2014 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrozar
If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.



Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
Bump stop and diconnect maybee you'll get more droop
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Not to change subject but how do you like your crown leaf springs ??
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Until I solve the rear tire stuffing in the sheet metal down travel will not make a difference, correct.

I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected

After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.

But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.


Originally Posted by helmut
Well yeah it wouldn't stuff anymore in the rear as there is no room. But what about down travel ? those swaybars are limiting most of it. Especially since you have disconnects I guess IM puzzled as to why they are connected. Your front down travel will probably double. I didn't know this was a "stuffeage" only test.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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I don't have enough time on them yet for an answer

Originally Posted by 96xjcheapjeep
Not to change subject but how do you like your crown leaf springs ??
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrozar
Until I solve the rear tire stuffing in the sheet metal down travel will not make a difference, correct.

I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected

After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.

But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.
Bump stop, bump stop, bump stop. There's your answer. Thread solved. Limit uptravel and gain down travel. :dunno. Serious now with these threads
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #11  
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Yep I have a set on order as of 15 minutes ago...

Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.

I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.

Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.

James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..

His is XJ a little beyond stock





Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Bump stop, bump stop, bump stop. There's your answer. Thread solved. Limit uptravel and gain down travel. :dunno. Serious now with these threads
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jrozar
Yep I have a set on order as of 15 minutes ago...

Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.

I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.

Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.

James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..

His is XJ a little beyond stock


Always remember, measure before bumpstopping. See what you actually need. Either extended bumpstops or just bumpstop plates in place of ubolt plates
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:32 PM
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Thanks for that info....the Cherokee is new to me I didn't even think of bump stop plates.

Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Always remember, measure before bumpstopping. See what you actually need. Either extended bumpstops or just bumpstop plates in place of ubolt plates
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jrozar
Thanks for that info....the Cherokee is new to me I didn't even think of bump stop plates.
That's why we are here
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