Sleeper XJ Adams Driveline Flex Test
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sleeper XJ Adams Driveline Flex Test
Here is a little on the current specs, we still have some work to do to gain more but this is where she sits now. Our current obstacle is to get more room in the rear, our limiting factor is the rear tire maxing out in the fender well.
235/75/15 on stock rims, ARB Lockers F & R
Front
Old Man Emu 2" front Springs
Rough Country Sway Bar disconnect front (connected in Pics)
Bilstein Shocks
Rear
Rubicon Express 1" Bommerang Shackles
Crown stock height leafs
Rear Sway Bar connected in pics
HD Engineering No Lift Shackle Boxes
Front Up
Rear Stuffing with Front Up
Rear Tire Stuffed with back up..
Rear Shackle with no lift box with rear tire lifted to the max
235/75/15 on stock rims, ARB Lockers F & R
Front
Old Man Emu 2" front Springs
Rough Country Sway Bar disconnect front (connected in Pics)
Bilstein Shocks
Rear
Rubicon Express 1" Bommerang Shackles
Crown stock height leafs
Rear Sway Bar connected in pics
HD Engineering No Lift Shackle Boxes
Front Up
Rear Stuffing with Front Up
Rear Tire Stuffed with back up..
Rear Shackle with no lift box with rear tire lifted to the max
Last edited by Jrozar; 11-25-2014 at 02:00 PM.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.
My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?
So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?
So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
Last edited by Jrozar; 11-25-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.
My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?
So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
My limiting factor isn't the sway bars it's the tire hitting the fender sheet metal. Would removing the rear swaybar and disconnecting the front fix this issue?
So our next project is to see what we can do to get more without trimming the fender...once we get to a point it doesn't contact the sheet metal then it would be time to start disconnecting the front and removing the rear.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
Well yeah it wouldn't stuff anymore in the rear as there is no room. But what about down travel ? those swaybars are limiting most of it. Especially since you have disconnects I guess IM puzzled as to why they are connected. Your front down travel will probably double. I didn't know this was a "stuffeage" only test.
Last edited by helmut; 11-25-2014 at 03:45 PM.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
If the rear tire is maxing out and stuffing in to the fender sheet metal with the bars connected....what do you think would happen with them disconnected? i think it would still stuff at the same height with the front and rear disconnected wouldn't you think as it does connected.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
Im considering longer rear bump stops to keep it from hitting the sheet metal..then maybe see how it does with no sway bars connected.
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#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Until I solve the rear tire stuffing in the sheet metal down travel will not make a difference, correct.
I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected
After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.
But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.
I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected
After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.
But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.
Well yeah it wouldn't stuff anymore in the rear as there is no room. But what about down travel ? those swaybars are limiting most of it. Especially since you have disconnects I guess IM puzzled as to why they are connected. Your front down travel will probably double. I didn't know this was a "stuffeage" only test.
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Until I solve the rear tire stuffing in the sheet metal down travel will not make a difference, correct.
I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected
After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.
But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.
I mean all three wheels are on the ground in the picture with one up and the rear contacts the body, so down travel isn't the issue in this case because swaybars are attached and I'm rubbing. It would do the same disconnected
After I fix this then I will do it again with sway bars being disconnected.
But I don't think I will get twice the front travel disconnected unless my shocks and brake lines will allow for that.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yep I have a set on order as of 15 minutes ago...
Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.
I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.
Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.
James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..
His is XJ a little beyond stock
Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.
I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.
Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.
James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..
His is XJ a little beyond stock
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Yep I have a set on order as of 15 minutes ago...
Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.
I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.
Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.
James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..
His is XJ a little beyond stock
Then we will disconnect the front sway bar, remove the rear and flex it out.
I will also be putting it on a lift soon with the F&R disconnected and see what length shocks I will need to maximize travel and then extend the front and rear brake lines.
Im also planning to add the metal cloak front control arms.
James Adams (Adams Drive Line) and I are having fun seeing how much we can get out of a stock looking Cherokee... the trail sleeper idea has a few of us thinking and really considering our options to see how capable a 29" tired XJ can be..
His is XJ a little beyond stock
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