???'s for Wiring Aux Relay/Fuse Box
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 416
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From: CT
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
???'s for Wiring Aux Relay/Fuse Box
I'm wanting to wire up an Aux Relay/Fuse box & a separate switch box for some electrical components & a clean switch box... I know I want the relay/fuse box in the cabin (to eliminate extra steps in weatherproofing & finding space) & the switch box to be overhead (probably shooting for 8-10 switches).... Came across FitchVa's site a few years ago, & that was exactly what I've had in mind....
Anyways, I've been wanting to emulate Fitch's relay/fuse & switch boxes as it is damm near perfect.... Clean, compact, resourceful, useful, & GENIOUS!.... I wont be using all 8-10 switches right now, I might end up only doing 6 circuits with couple switches acting as circuit disconnects, I just want to pre-wire the wire, switches, & relays.... But I've got a brain fart on a couple things...
1) Fused feed & ground/negative from the battery goes to the relay/fuse box... Fuse amperage rating here is derived from the total amperage sum of circuits? Taking into account continuous/constant duty, right??... Lets say I'm only wiring 3 circuits (bumper fogs/reverse fogs/400W inverter)... Both fog circuits are 55W, so 5A each, & I can run both front & rear on one 30A relay? Inverter gets 40A fuse, & one dedicated 40A relay? I should fuse the feed with 50A for now, & adjust when I add more??
http://fitchva.com/jeep/gallery/main...serialNumber=3
2) Run the Cat-5e from relay box to switches... "Accessory" is ignition switched feed? Does that mean, at the switch end, Cat-5e on switch one leg/prong the other is the light/inverter/component?? Or am I backwards here, "accessory" from relay goes to lights/etc., ignition power goes to switches?
2.5) Wiring this way, I'll only be able to run components with Ign ON??
3) I've got a 4 gauge, 100A MAXI fused feed to a splitter, reduces to 2x 8 gauge, which I'm only using 1 to feed a 500W amp.... Can I use the other to have an 8 gauge feed to the relay/fuse box?? (if i stay under 60A)
Thanx in advance, & Fitch (even tho u dont really use this board), BIG THANX for your design & thorough write-up on your site... You do awesome work!
Anyways, I've been wanting to emulate Fitch's relay/fuse & switch boxes as it is damm near perfect.... Clean, compact, resourceful, useful, & GENIOUS!.... I wont be using all 8-10 switches right now, I might end up only doing 6 circuits with couple switches acting as circuit disconnects, I just want to pre-wire the wire, switches, & relays.... But I've got a brain fart on a couple things...
1) Fused feed & ground/negative from the battery goes to the relay/fuse box... Fuse amperage rating here is derived from the total amperage sum of circuits? Taking into account continuous/constant duty, right??... Lets say I'm only wiring 3 circuits (bumper fogs/reverse fogs/400W inverter)... Both fog circuits are 55W, so 5A each, & I can run both front & rear on one 30A relay? Inverter gets 40A fuse, & one dedicated 40A relay? I should fuse the feed with 50A for now, & adjust when I add more??
http://fitchva.com/jeep/gallery/main...serialNumber=3
2) Run the Cat-5e from relay box to switches... "Accessory" is ignition switched feed? Does that mean, at the switch end, Cat-5e on switch one leg/prong the other is the light/inverter/component?? Or am I backwards here, "accessory" from relay goes to lights/etc., ignition power goes to switches?
2.5) Wiring this way, I'll only be able to run components with Ign ON??
3) I've got a 4 gauge, 100A MAXI fused feed to a splitter, reduces to 2x 8 gauge, which I'm only using 1 to feed a 500W amp.... Can I use the other to have an 8 gauge feed to the relay/fuse box?? (if i stay under 60A)
Thanx in advance, & Fitch (even tho u dont really use this board), BIG THANX for your design & thorough write-up on your site... You do awesome work!
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From: 9000 ft, CO
Year: 1999 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
1. Yes, all of that's fine. The 30amp relay and fuse will suffice for the front & rear lights. The 50amp relay is enough for a 400w inverter; a little overkill there never hurts.
2. The "Accessory" terminal on your relay should go to the accessory, but you can check by knowing the power supply terminal. The terminal that gets the main power (not the switch signal) is almost always opposite the terminal you run wires from to the device(s) being powered.
2.5 - Yes, if you use the ignition's 12v for the signal to flip the relays, they'll turn on when you turn the key. Usually power from a switched ignition source ("hot" when the key is turned to "On") is run to the switch, then the relay. This way the circuit is only complete IFthe ignition is on AND the switch is "on."
3. Your mainline power is fine like that. When I mimicked Fitch's design I put the fuse and splitter in a second one of those project boxes to keep it dry. Use grommets around the wires to keep water out.
2. The "Accessory" terminal on your relay should go to the accessory, but you can check by knowing the power supply terminal. The terminal that gets the main power (not the switch signal) is almost always opposite the terminal you run wires from to the device(s) being powered.
2.5 - Yes, if you use the ignition's 12v for the signal to flip the relays, they'll turn on when you turn the key. Usually power from a switched ignition source ("hot" when the key is turned to "On") is run to the switch, then the relay. This way the circuit is only complete IFthe ignition is on AND the switch is "on."
3. Your mainline power is fine like that. When I mimicked Fitch's design I put the fuse and splitter in a second one of those project boxes to keep it dry. Use grommets around the wires to keep water out.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 416
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From: CT
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks alpine
1. Yes, all of that's fine. The 30amp relay and fuse will suffice for the front & rear lights. The 50amp relay is enough for a 400w inverter; a little overkill there never hurts.
Maybe I incorrectly worded & left some things out.... front fogs will be on its own switch/10A fuse, rear fogs on another switch/10A fuse + work automatically with Reverse lights (which I guess need diodes incorporated), in this case, I'd have to wire TWO 30A Relays, one for the front, & one for rear fogs' circuit, correct?... The inverter I felt 40A fuse & relay would be fine... 50A FUSE was for the main feed.... That was my ultimate concern, would splitting my 4 gauge main feed to continue to feed my 500W amp + 50A main fused feed for accessories be ok with what I'm currently wiring... obviously, amp + inverter on + both fogs = fuse popped... But, for now, the closest I'm getting to constant/continuous duty, is the stereo amp... I can turn on both fogs, & still be ok... Inverter will probably only used when nothing else is on
2. The "Accessory" terminal on your relay should go to the accessory, but you can check by knowing the power supply terminal. The terminal that gets the main power (not the switch signal) is almost always opposite the terminal you run wires from to the device(s) being powered.
ok, makes sense, thats what I was thinking...
2.5 - Yes, if you use the ignition's 12v for the signal to flip the relays, they'll turn on when you turn the key. Usually power from a switched ignition source ("hot" when the key is turned to "On") is run to the switch, then the relay. This way the circuit is only complete IFthe ignition is on AND the switch is "on."
Right, even tho there is the main feed to the Relay/Fuse box from the battery, being always HOT? If I wanted to be able to work the lights with the IGN off, I'd have to run a separate remote feed to the switches...Hmm, maybe 5A fused remote wire to a switch be the main "accessory" feed for the Relay?
3. Your mainline power is fine like that. When I mimicked Fitch's design I put the fuse and splitter in a second one of those project boxes to keep it dry. Use grommets around the wires to keep water out.
Mine will be in the cargo area like Fitch's, so it should stay mostly dry back there
Maybe I incorrectly worded & left some things out.... front fogs will be on its own switch/10A fuse, rear fogs on another switch/10A fuse + work automatically with Reverse lights (which I guess need diodes incorporated), in this case, I'd have to wire TWO 30A Relays, one for the front, & one for rear fogs' circuit, correct?... The inverter I felt 40A fuse & relay would be fine... 50A FUSE was for the main feed.... That was my ultimate concern, would splitting my 4 gauge main feed to continue to feed my 500W amp + 50A main fused feed for accessories be ok with what I'm currently wiring... obviously, amp + inverter on + both fogs = fuse popped... But, for now, the closest I'm getting to constant/continuous duty, is the stereo amp... I can turn on both fogs, & still be ok... Inverter will probably only used when nothing else is on
2. The "Accessory" terminal on your relay should go to the accessory, but you can check by knowing the power supply terminal. The terminal that gets the main power (not the switch signal) is almost always opposite the terminal you run wires from to the device(s) being powered.
ok, makes sense, thats what I was thinking...
2.5 - Yes, if you use the ignition's 12v for the signal to flip the relays, they'll turn on when you turn the key. Usually power from a switched ignition source ("hot" when the key is turned to "On") is run to the switch, then the relay. This way the circuit is only complete IFthe ignition is on AND the switch is "on."
Right, even tho there is the main feed to the Relay/Fuse box from the battery, being always HOT? If I wanted to be able to work the lights with the IGN off, I'd have to run a separate remote feed to the switches...Hmm, maybe 5A fused remote wire to a switch be the main "accessory" feed for the Relay?
3. Your mainline power is fine like that. When I mimicked Fitch's design I put the fuse and splitter in a second one of those project boxes to keep it dry. Use grommets around the wires to keep water out.
Mine will be in the cargo area like Fitch's, so it should stay mostly dry back there
Last edited by xj^REMY; Jul 13, 2011 at 01:07 PM.
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