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i tried to put in some 6.5's in the rear, and only one hole lines up (obviously). what do you guys recommend to fasten the rest of the 3 holes?
i tried to self tap into the headliner but it doesn't seem like there's hard enough material for the screw to grab onto.
You need new holes for 6.5's. Slide some U-clip nuts on and screw through those. The sound bar should not be trusted to hold the screw all by itself.
Also, be careful with subwoofer enclosures, guys. That Subthump one is fine, but not for all subs. Every sub has specific enclosure volume requirements. Mine requires a 1 cu ft sealed enclosure. That Subthump enclosure is 0.32 cu ft. Macgyver makes no mention of the volume of his enclosure, but I guarantee that it is less than 0.5 cu ft--probably 0.2-0.3 if I had to guess. Having the right type of enclosure (sealed, ported, bandbox) of the right size is very important. Best case scenario if you're using the wrong size is that your sub doesn't perform/sound as good as it could; worst case is that you do real damage to the sub. I absolutely loathe sub boxes just sitting in trucks/cargo areas taking-up space, so mine is in a custom fiberglass enclosure in the cubby area.
Last edited by mschi772; Feb 10, 2015 at 05:34 AM.
I have a PDX-V9 mounted to MDF screwed into where the spare tire bracket is. As for "theft proofing," the spare tire cover is thrown over the amp and sub lol.
I have a PDX-V9 mounted to MDF screwed into where the spare tire bracket is. As for "theft proofing," the spare tire cover is thrown over the amp and sub lol.
I've seen a build like this elsewhere--a tire-sized and shaped enclosure with a sub in it anchored to the spare tire location and covered with a tire cover. It's a fantastic idea for 12 and 15 inch subs. 10's and under rarely, if ever require so much volume (though I suppose you could restart icy the volume while still making a larger enclosure for appearances. Could wrap it in some tire tread and use an old wheel cover as a grill to make even stealthier.
Last edited by mschi772; Feb 10, 2015 at 03:50 PM.
I've seen a build like this elsewhere--a tire-sized and shaped enclosure with a sub in it anchored to the spare tire location and covered with a tire cover. It's a fantastic idea for 12 and 15 inch subs. 10's and under rarely, if ever require so much volume (though I suppose you could restart icy the volume while still making a late enclosure for appearances.
You read way too much into it, sub is in a box next to the amp, with the cover thrown over. That said, I could for sure mount the box onto the bracket and rig something up with an appearance like that.
i tried to put in some 6.5's in the rear, and only one hole lines up (obviously). what do you guys recommend to fasten the rest of the 3 holes?
i tried to self tap into the headliner but it doesn't seem like there's hard enough material for the screw to grab onto.
Grab a drill and just go until it grabs the plastic underneath. I have 6.5 in both my roof and my doors, the roof needs the grilles that come with the speakers to looks good, and the doors don't use any grilles.
You read way too much into it, sub is in a box next to the amp, with the cover thrown over. That said, I could for sure mount the box onto the bracket and rig something up with an appearance like that.
Even that is nice. I'll find a link to the one I was talking about when I get home though for whoever might be curious.
You need new holes for 6.5's. Slide some U-clip nuts on and screw through those. The sound bar should not be trusted to hold the screw all by itself.
Also, be careful with subwoofer enclosures, guys. That Subthump one is fine, but not for all subs. Every sub has specific enclosure volume requirements. Mine requires a 1 cu ft sealed enclosure. That Subthump enclosure is 0.32 cu ft. Macgyver makes no mention of the volume of his enclosure, but I guarantee that it is less than 0.5 cu ft--probably 0.2-0.3 if I had to guess. Having the right type of enclosure (sealed, ported, bandbox) of the right size is very important. Best case scenario if you're using the wrong size is that your sub doesn't perform/sound as good as it could; worst case is that you do real damage to the sub. I absolutely loathe sub boxes just sitting in trucks/cargo areas taking-up space, so mine is in a custom fiberglass enclosure in the cubby area.
If I recall correctly, my enclosure volume worked out to about .23 cubic feet which was within the acceptable range for the Kicker CompVT 6.5 sub that was originally in there. The 8" Pioneer I have in there now honestly needs more breathing room. The enclosure being so small limits the low end excursion (and thus the low notes) and also causes I pretty significant spike in response, probably in the 65Hz-70Hz range by my ears. I fully intend to make a new enclosure later out of fiberglass, it's just one of those projects that has fallen to the back burner.
If any of you would like to learn more about speaker enclosure design, I recommend "Building Speaker Systems" by Gordon McComb, and "Car Stereo Cookbook" by Mark Rumreich. They are good starts on understanding enclosure design and the math behind it, electrical math, as well as general information on the basics of how different car stereo components work together. Concepts like the decibel scale, SPL/sensitivity, the audio spectrum and concepts like Hertz and harmonics are also covered. Those two books (in there original editions) were what guided me through my early years (wow, was that really the early 90's) installing systems and designing boxes.
Just enter the specs of your sub from the owners manual or the manufacturers website.
In fact, I usually recommend the12volt for newbies wanting to learn about auto electrical, relays, the relationship between voltage/amperage/watts, etc. It's a great resource.
I have a 2000 xj with (4) Kenwood 3-way 6.5s, ran thru a Alpine 4-Channel amp. Got door speakers wired thru the factory back speaker wires to the dash harness wired to front wires. Easy set-up. (Runnin RCA cables to all three amps, 1) for 6.5s 1) for 2 10in subs and 1) for 1 12in sub... I like different types music, mostly Metal and some Rap)
I apologize I wish I had taken some more detailed photos.
Here are some guidelines off the top of my head, steps for each door are similar:
1. Disassemble the door (1 phillips screw by the handle, 3 phillips screws along the middle of the panel, and 1 phillips screw on the top corner closest to the fender). Gently pry around the door and lift up on the panel to remove it from the door frame.
2. Disconnect the 2 plugs that control the door locks / windows. You should now be able to swing the panel out of the way. You can opt to remove the door latch / lock cables but I left mine in place. (just be careful not to bend them or the door wont lock properly, its not a big deal if you do, just bend them back).
3. There will be 4 phillips screws holding the speaker in place. Once that is out, the speaker will pull out of its place. You should now see 2 wires behind the speakers.
In my case, I was running all new wire, so I just cut and tied the wires off. I was initially going to pull them out completely but they are bundled tightly in the door harness and I didnt want to mess with it.
From the photos, you can see that the wire was run through the rubber grommet (accordian hose looking thing). I pulled that piece off to help guide the wire into the cabin.
4. From the inside of the cabin, you will have to remove the kick panel which is held on by a 12mm thumb nut. Its hard to see but you will find it when you poke around. You may also have to remove 1-2 phillips head screws holding the trim pieces down to allow the kick panel to come out.
5. Referring to the photos above, you can see a rubber grommet where the wires from the door come through. Since I was running 14 ga speaker wire, I cut a slit into the grommet which allowed the new wire to come through. It was the easiest way for me to get the wire to feed, you may be able to poke a hole.
6. From here I ran those wires to an amp. If you're running it to the factory headunit, you should note the wire color connected to the speakers and trace it into the cabin harness and splice your new wire in from there, the common point for the wire to break is near the door connection (from opening and closing so many times). Just be sure to leave some slack to reduce the stress on the wire in this area.
