Rubicon Express long arm Or not?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi all,
I know Rubicon Express is closed for now.....hopefully not for long.
Anyway, i may be able to strike a GOOD deal with one of my local auto shop for a set of new RE6200 or a RE6300 (longarm).
I'm a COMPLETE NEWBIE and have no access to any welding tools.
Based on what i read of the Rubicon Express instructions, i would need to do some welding if i choose the RE6300, so my questions are,
1)Should i get the RE6300 and get someone to install or just stick to RE6200 and do it myself. Appreciate if someone can advise me on the pros and cons of having a longarm.
2)Is there a way to install the RE6300 without any welding?
3)Or should i head for other brand just in case there is no more Rubicon Express replacement parts?
Thx in advance.
I know Rubicon Express is closed for now.....hopefully not for long.
Anyway, i may be able to strike a GOOD deal with one of my local auto shop for a set of new RE6200 or a RE6300 (longarm).
I'm a COMPLETE NEWBIE and have no access to any welding tools.
Based on what i read of the Rubicon Express instructions, i would need to do some welding if i choose the RE6300, so my questions are,
1)Should i get the RE6300 and get someone to install or just stick to RE6200 and do it myself. Appreciate if someone can advise me on the pros and cons of having a longarm.
2)Is there a way to install the RE6300 without any welding?
3)Or should i head for other brand just in case there is no more Rubicon Express replacement parts?
Thx in advance.
Last edited by BotakBeng; Feb 19, 2011 at 12:50 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i started out with the 6200, nice kit, nice flex and easy to install.
but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.
the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.
but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.
the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.
but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i started out with the 6200, nice kit, nice flex and easy to install.
but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.
the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.
but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.
the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.
but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
So there's no other way except to weld?
Just wanna do it right the first time, and its gonna cost me only another 100ish if i get the RE6300.
Last edited by BotakBeng; Feb 19, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the welding part is nothing to worry about.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.
you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.
mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.
you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.
mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the welding part is nothing to worry about.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.
you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.
mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.
you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.
mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
Just so i understand you....i can bolt up everything (RE6300) and drive to a shop and have them weld it?

Thx.
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: duncan b.c
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
i used the 5.5 RE long arm kit in mine. hasnt failed me yet and its all bolt in, no welding, easy to assemble and beefy! check it out. if u drive ur rig on the road, long arms are amazing in drivability wise, compared to shorty's just my $.02
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long arm but stay away from RE, their joint suck. Plus last i knew they were shut down so getting replacement parts from them is next to imposable.
Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113
basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113
basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
maybe call a flatbed tow truck, or get someone to bring over a 110v mig or gas mobile welder.
i would find someone with AAA if you don't have it, get it done that way.
but i don't have RE's long arms, but the instructions call for a mig welder.
their kit is pretty detailed mounting wise, you should be fine to drive it tho, if close. maybe not hit the highway till it's welded in.
The welding on the crossmember to the unibody is optional. i havent welded mine, and dont really plan on it. there are so many bolts and plates that the effer isnt going anywhere. just make sure you check the bolts out once in a while to make sure they are tight
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
long arm but stay away from RE, their joint suck. Plus last i knew they were shut down so getting replacement parts from them is next to imposable.
Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113
basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113
basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
I'm hoping Rubion Express with get re-organized but i'm getting a darn good deal so the risk is fairly justifiable.
although you could probably get away with driving it to get it welded. i wouldn't. i had the welder at my shop, so driving was unnecessary.
maybe call a flatbed tow truck, or get someone to bring over a 110v mig or gas mobile welder.
i would find someone with AAA if you don't have it, get it done that way.
but i don't have RE's long arms, but the instructions call for a mig welder.
their kit is pretty detailed mounting wise, you should be fine to drive it tho, if close. maybe not hit the highway till it's welded in.
maybe call a flatbed tow truck, or get someone to bring over a 110v mig or gas mobile welder.
i would find someone with AAA if you don't have it, get it done that way.
but i don't have RE's long arms, but the instructions call for a mig welder.
their kit is pretty detailed mounting wise, you should be fine to drive it tho, if close. maybe not hit the highway till it's welded in.
Sounds doable, i'm gonna go ahead to see if i can close the deal on the RE6300.
Appreciate all the help and advice.
I have the RE6025 kit that came with replacement LCAs. It's a 3.5 kit that I got 4.5 -5" from. What is the advantage of a longer lower control arm? Mine is a DD. Thanks


