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Rubicon Express long arm Or not?

Old 02-19-2011, 12:47 PM
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Default Rubicon Express long arm Or not?

Hi all,
I know Rubicon Express is closed for now.....hopefully not for long.

Anyway, i may be able to strike a GOOD deal with one of my local auto shop for a set of new RE6200 or a RE6300 (longarm).

I'm a COMPLETE NEWBIE and have no access to any welding tools.
Based on what i read of the Rubicon Express instructions, i would need to do some welding if i choose the RE6300, so my questions are,

1)Should i get the RE6300 and get someone to install or just stick to RE6200 and do it myself. Appreciate if someone can advise me on the pros and cons of having a longarm.
2)Is there a way to install the RE6300 without any welding?
3)Or should i head for other brand just in case there is no more Rubicon Express replacement parts?

Thx in advance.

Last edited by BotakBeng; 02-19-2011 at 12:50 PM.
Old 02-19-2011, 04:31 PM
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i started out with the 6200, nice kit, nice flex and easy to install.

but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.

the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.

but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
Old 02-19-2011, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by caged
i started out with the 6200, nice kit, nice flex and easy to install.

but now i added a long arm upgrade, using some of the re parts, but since then replaced the 5.5 inch springs and coil spacers with 8 inch coils and new rear leafs.

the 6200 is a nice kit to build from. you can always get the re long arm upgrade later.

but long arms are nice... once you go long arm, you cannot go back to stock short arms, as you need to cut the lca mounts off the uni-frame. so keep that in mind.
Thx.

So there's no other way except to weld?
Just wanna do it right the first time, and its gonna cost me only another 100ish if i get the RE6300.

Last edited by BotakBeng; 02-19-2011 at 05:28 PM.
Old 02-19-2011, 08:05 PM
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the welding part is nothing to worry about.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.

you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.

mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
Old 02-19-2011, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by caged
the welding part is nothing to worry about.
just get someone who knows how to weld thick to thin.

you could always get the 6200, then later get something like the rusty's long arm upgrade, but i'd rather just get a kit that welds on.

mine only took about 20 minutes to weld up the crossmember to the frame.
i bolted everything up first, did a quick alignment on my shop floor, then broke out the mig.
I have to re-read the instruction again.
Just so i understand you....i can bolt up everything (RE6300) and drive to a shop and have them weld it?

Thx.
Old 02-19-2011, 08:50 PM
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Go with longarm trust me I wish i would have saved up for the long arm and now I'm am regretting it
Old 02-20-2011, 02:09 AM
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i used the 5.5 RE long arm kit in mine. hasnt failed me yet and its all bolt in, no welding, easy to assemble and beefy! check it out. if u drive ur rig on the road, long arms are amazing in drivability wise, compared to shorty's just my $.02
Old 02-20-2011, 07:34 AM
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long arm but stay away from RE, their joint suck. Plus last i knew they were shut down so getting replacement parts from them is next to imposable.

Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113

basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
Old 02-20-2011, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BotakBeng
I have to re-read the instruction again.
Just so i understand you....i can bolt up everything (RE6300) and drive to a shop and have them weld it?

Thx.
although you could probably get away with driving it to get it welded. i wouldn't. i had the welder at my shop, so driving was unnecessary.
maybe call a flatbed tow truck, or get someone to bring over a 110v mig or gas mobile welder.
i would find someone with AAA if you don't have it, get it done that way.

but i don't have RE's long arms, but the instructions call for a mig welder.
their kit is pretty detailed mounting wise, you should be fine to drive it tho, if close. maybe not hit the highway till it's welded in.
Old 02-20-2011, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BotakBeng
I have to re-read the instruction again.
Just so i understand you....i can bolt up everything (RE6300) and drive to a shop and have them weld it?

Thx.
The welding on the crossmember to the unibody is optional. i havent welded mine, and dont really plan on it. there are so many bolts and plates that the effer isnt going anywhere. just make sure you check the bolts out once in a while to make sure they are tight
Old 02-20-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Irongrave
long arm but stay away from RE, their joint suck. Plus last i knew they were shut down so getting replacement parts from them is next to imposable.


Go long arms and do it right
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113


basically install the cross member get that welded then go back and do the nasty to the stock LCA mounts and install the arms.
Thx yo!
I'm hoping Rubion Express with get re-organized but i'm getting a darn good deal so the risk is fairly justifiable.

Originally Posted by caged
although you could probably get away with driving it to get it welded. i wouldn't. i had the welder at my shop, so driving was unnecessary.
maybe call a flatbed tow truck, or get someone to bring over a 110v mig or gas mobile welder.
i would find someone with AAA if you don't have it, get it done that way.

but i don't have RE's long arms, but the instructions call for a mig welder.
their kit is pretty detailed mounting wise, you should be fine to drive it tho, if close. maybe not hit the highway till it's welded in.
Originally Posted by jfiedler
The welding on the crossmember to the unibody is optional. i havent welded mine, and dont really plan on it. there are so many bolts and plates that the effer isnt going anywhere. just make sure you check the bolts out once in a while to make sure they are tight
Awesome!

Sounds doable, i'm gonna go ahead to see if i can close the deal on the RE6300.

Appreciate all the help and advice.
Old 02-20-2011, 09:28 AM
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I'm not sure but i think you can swap out their ends as long as you get the adjustable arms with summit machine or curry super flex joints.
Old 02-20-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Irongrave
I'm not sure but i think you can swap out their ends as long as you get the adjustable arms with summit machine or curry super flex joints.

This the part with the heim? that mounts to the crossmember?
my zerks already broke off, but this is my fault
Old 02-20-2011, 10:10 AM
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I have the RE6025 kit that came with replacement LCAs. It's a 3.5 kit that I got 4.5 -5" from. What is the advantage of a longer lower control arm? Mine is a DD. Thanks
Old 02-20-2011, 12:56 PM
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its way smoother, response it way better , not nearly as rigid as short arms , it basicly brings the geometry back to a stock jeep setup but lifted!

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