rough country long arm kit
#1
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0
rough country long arm kit
I am asking either people who have this kit that for install themselves or experience with the kit. When installing the t. Case skid is there supposed to be a threaded slot or something? I have the 2 9/16 bolts, washer and lock washers but they do not fasten to anything. Am i retarded here?
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There should be 2 threaded holes on the back side of the long arm crossmember that those bolts go in and 2 self tappers that go into the driverside unirail.
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm about to buy just the long arms and crossmember to upgrade my short arm rusty's kit. How do you like your kit so far? Any problems?
#5
OP: If you can figure out where the hole is supposed to be would it be feasible to drill the hole yourself? I'm not a big fan of having to modify an engineered part to make it work, but it's an option.
Side note:
I can't say anything for the long arm kit, but I have their X series 4.5'' lift and it seems to be OK so far. I've only had it on the ground for about 500 to 1,000 miles, but I can tell you I wouldn't go to their long arm upgrade if you've got other options.
I've read a lot about their joints wearing out quickly (unfortunately after I already purchased) and had a set of problems of my own that have put me off from future purchases. To each his own.
Side note:
I can't say anything for the long arm kit, but I have their X series 4.5'' lift and it seems to be OK so far. I've only had it on the ground for about 500 to 1,000 miles, but I can tell you I wouldn't go to their long arm upgrade if you've got other options.
I've read a lot about their joints wearing out quickly (unfortunately after I already purchased) and had a set of problems of my own that have put me off from future purchases. To each his own.
#6
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ive been running this kit for 4 or 5 months now. about 14k miles on it and i love it. it rides better, does better off road, and its pretty beefy for how much you pay. the design and mount is much stronger than the iro kit in my opinion.
i had a couple of joints wear out. R/C warranteed them no problem and since then no issues.
i had a couple of joints wear out. R/C warranteed them no problem and since then no issues.
#7
There should be two holes in the back of the crossmember that are NOT threaded. As I recall, you have to reach up above the crossmember from the front to attach the washers and nuts. I modified the skidplate by turning the holes in it into slots by cutting down from above with a die grinder and a cutoff wheel. Then you just loosely attach the bolts, washers and nuts to the crossmember and slide the skidplate up into position and tighten down the hardware. Makes R&R a lot easier.
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#8
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
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So far install has been a biatch but I got done about 2 hours ago and took it for a 4 foot test drive, heard a grinding so I had the wife drive for a sec. My front driveshaft was rubbing the xmember so I sawzalled off the little rubbing part and Walla! It work. I do not currently have the t.case skid in nor the braces ( issue with mounting skid and waiting for braces from the guy I bought it from.) But it rides like a caddy right now. So I got what I paid for, a 250 dollar long arm kit. So far in the 15 miles I drove it I have seen night and day road manners from short arms. I am at 5.5 - 6 inches of lift.
#9
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by planewrench
There should be two holes in the back of the crossmember that are NOT threaded. As I recall, you have to reach up above the crossmember from the front to attach the washers and nuts. I modified the skidplate by turning the holes in it into slots by cutting down from above with a die grinder and a cutoff wheel. Then you just loosely attach the bolts, washers and nuts to the crossmember and slide the skidplate up into position and tighten down the hardware. Makes R&R a lot easier.
#10
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Year: 1999.
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Engine: 4.0, I6
OP: If you can figure out where the hole is supposed to be would it be feasible to drill the hole yourself? I'm not a big fan of having to modify an engineered part to make it work, but it's an option.
Side note:
I can't say anything for the long arm kit, but I have their X series 4.5'' lift and it seems to be OK so far. I've only had it on the ground for about 500 to 1,000 miles, but I can tell you I wouldn't go to their long arm upgrade if you've got other options.
I've read a lot about their joints wearing out quickly (unfortunately after I already purchased) and had a set of problems of my own that have put me off from future purchases. To each his own.
Side note:
I can't say anything for the long arm kit, but I have their X series 4.5'' lift and it seems to be OK so far. I've only had it on the ground for about 500 to 1,000 miles, but I can tell you I wouldn't go to their long arm upgrade if you've got other options.
I've read a lot about their joints wearing out quickly (unfortunately after I already purchased) and had a set of problems of my own that have put me off from future purchases. To each his own.
#11
I have the 4.5" long arm kit using the new rear spring packs. I have about 5,000 miles on it now. Running 32x11.5R15 mud claw radials. Kit went in relatively well, no major issues. Jeep handles great on the road yet the tires are a little squirrely in the rain.
Took the jeep off road yesterday for a little trip, nothing too crazy. It handled fine, seem to flex well enough,
I haven't had any issues so far and I thought the kit was well put together. Plenty of bad press for rough county products but for the money I paid, I don't think there was anything equivalent. Truck is mainly for camping and hunting, not hard core rock crawler so I guess it comes down to what you want or need.
Took the jeep off road yesterday for a little trip, nothing too crazy. It handled fine, seem to flex well enough,
I haven't had any issues so far and I thought the kit was well put together. Plenty of bad press for rough county products but for the money I paid, I don't think there was anything equivalent. Truck is mainly for camping and hunting, not hard core rock crawler so I guess it comes down to what you want or need.
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