Rough Country 3" lift kit any good for a DD?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
it's not the fender rubbing That's the problem with stock rims it's the lack of back spacing causing it to rub on suspension components.
CF Veteran
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From: Southern OH
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The bolts are metric M14x2.0x120. You can order them factory from Chrysler, Team Cherokee sells a kit for around 30 dollars, or you could get them from Fastenall. If you get the non flanged ones be sure to use washers, and be sure that the bolts are metric grade 10.9 or higher.
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From: Illinois, USA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
spacers are another thing to forget and break. They're not the safest or best option. If you're going to be spending money to buy quality spacers you could've bought new rims that are 15x8 instead of 15x7 which allows further airing down, wider rubber patch on the ground, and allows you to go with wider tires in the future if you decide to such as 33x12.5.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
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From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I recently purchased mine, has stock wheels with 1.25" spacers.
235/75R15's with 3" of lift.
I don't believe the tire would tuck and would require some extensive bump stopping technique with 31/10.50's.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: North Louisiana
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
well it would keep it from rubbing the suspension when turning which is what most are concerned about. I have 31 10.50 with 4" backspacing and I still have good flex
Attachment 285569
Attachment 285569
I didn't consider steering being the primary reason.
Good lookin' rig.
Do you have a build/info thread?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Central Massachusetts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Hey guys. I asked a similar question on one of the Facebook groups and most of the people on there are dummies so i'm gonna see what the professionals here think. Has anyone used the RC 3" that comes with lower control arms and sway bar drop brackets (along with shocks/springs obviously)? The AAL version runs about $350, the full leaf is about $550. How is it? Hard to install? Hows it ride? Quality? My jeep is my daily driver, im in high school. The only offroad it sees is the occasional muddy field or snowy roads, but 90% of the time its my DD for getting around town. Some people seem to think RC is junk, while others think its a very good deal for the price. People say its bad for offroad and getting beat on, but as a DD how is it? Honestly its pretty much just gonna be for looks. Is anything else needed besides what comes in the kit? So what are you guys thoughts? Anything is appreciated. Thanks.
This is just a link to the AAL version of the kit if you don't know which one im talking about http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...-kit-670x.html
This is just a link to the AAL version of the kit if you don't know which one im talking about http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...-kit-670x.html
So I just graduated and I'm in kind the same position as you, I just bought a 3" rustys kit, I heard the same as you did on the rc but to each their own,
From what I have heard(never drove a lifted jeep) you should do the track bar and break lines at a minimum with the 3 inch, I bought a new pitman arm as well...
Good luck with your build just thought I'd offer my two cents to someone in my same position
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 180
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From: Washington
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
RC stage 2 was the first lift I went with for the same reason, cost. I'll tell you four years down the road as mainly a DD...don't waist your hard earned cash. Run the other way 
oh and the ride IMO sucked since day one and never got better after break in. Now I have to replace front and rear springs because of sag. I'd spend the additional money for a better kit if I could go back.
Been there done that...
oh and the ride IMO sucked since day one and never got better after break in. Now I have to replace front and rear springs because of sag. I'd spend the additional money for a better kit if I could go back. Been there done that...
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey there,
So I just graduated and I'm in kind the same position as you, I just bought a 3" rustys kit, I heard the same as you did on the rc but to each their own,
From what I have heard(never drove a lifted jeep) you should do the track bar and break lines at a minimum with the 3 inch, I bought a new pitman arm as well...
Good luck with your build just thought I'd offer my two cents to someone in my same position
So I just graduated and I'm in kind the same position as you, I just bought a 3" rustys kit, I heard the same as you did on the rc but to each their own,
From what I have heard(never drove a lifted jeep) you should do the track bar and break lines at a minimum with the 3 inch, I bought a new pitman arm as well...
Good luck with your build just thought I'd offer my two cents to someone in my same position
You have higher quality leafs and coils with Rustys (made in NA) over the RC for sure my 3" leafs still good after 5 yrs. now used with a 4 1/2" lift.
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Model: Cherokee
CF Veteran
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0