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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #46  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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A correctly built exo cage needs interior triangulated bracing. I think they look bad but that's my opinion.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #47  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
Oh ok I miss one day and stuff goes down.
And you didn't miss anything good. Quite silly, actually.

(No, im not testing you)
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #48  
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I dont care nor do I wanna hear.

So these braces on the inside... Explain on those. I want to attach the exo to the sliders,front bumper and rear bumper. All of which are tied in to the frame. What do I need to kno about the inner braces for the exo
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
I would like a inner cage but the exo looks baddass. Are they as stuctually sounds as an inner if done right?
Yes if built correctly an exo cage can be as strong as an internal cage. Check out hudfab's exo cage it is very well built. If I personally was building an exo I would build a hybrid, it would be much easier for internal bracing of the B pillar

Last edited by DualPurposeXJ; Mar 21, 2012 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #50  
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Here's a well built hybrid
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:51 AM
  #51  
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Hmmm, that one looks OK. I would have gone down the outside of the a-pillar where they went on the inside but that works too. Since that rig was built for KOH it didn't really need that tube to be on the outside.

If I HAD to do an exo I'd do it like this. I actually almost built mine like this.

More details:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/cage1.htm



This one belongs to a friend of mine. The b-pillar is all on the inside. The picture doesn't show the top but it goes thru the roof to the cage on top.


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But, my point is that if you want it to be cheap then an exo cage is not the way to go. Especially if you plan to build it yourself.

A good bender will cost you at least $600 (If you shop around) and ~120' of tube, depending on your location, costs me around $600. Then, if you don't have a welder...

Last edited by Lowrange2; Mar 22, 2012 at 05:53 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 06:53 AM
  #52  
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I need something more than what i have. (NOTHING)
I might have to go back a few pages and look at that t&J or whoever for there $800 cage then add a lite exo to it.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:28 AM
  #53  
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Good idea. The T and J cage is a good cage for a starting point. You can easily add onto it later.

I installed the T and J cage in mine, added front and rear harness bars and a big x at the b-pillar and love it.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:28 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Hmmm, that one looks OK. I would have gone down the outside of the a-pillar where they went on the inside but that works too. Since that rig was built for KOH it didn't really need that tube to be on the outside.

If I HAD to do an exo I'd do it like this. I actually almost built mine like this.

More details:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/cage1.htm

This one belongs to a friend of mine. The b-pillar is all on the inside. The picture doesn't show the top but it goes thru the roof to the cage on top.

But, my point is that if you want it to be cheap then an exo cage is not the way to go. Especially if you plan to build it yourself.

A good bender will cost you at least $600 (If you shop around) and ~120' of tube, depending on your location, costs me around $600. Then, if you don't have a welder...
I've got all the tools needed to build it
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #55  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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In that case go pick up 120 ft' of 1.75" .120 wall DOM and start bending.

If you still want it to be cheaper buy HREW.

Ta Da!
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Hmmm, that one looks OK. I would have gone down the outside of the a-pillar where they went on the inside but that works too. Since that rig was built for KOH it didn't really need that tube to be on the outside.

that could easily be done, but im sure one of the reasons the put those tubes inside was so the could tie them into there engine cage and have a place to mount there gauges.

I personally don't like when people don't make a node at the top of the B pillar when the put an X in it. Im not knocking this guys cage at all I just think if your going to do it you might as well put the tubes where they are going to give you the most strength. That's one of the reasons I like the hybrid I posted. Just my .02
Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
I need something more than what i have. (NOTHING)
I might have to go back a few pages and look at that t&J or whoever for there $800 cage then add a lite exo to it.
T&J's kit is awesome and fits great I would recommend it to anyone looking for a pre built cage.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #57  
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I would say if you want to stay relatively cheap then paper towel rolls is your best bet.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:19 AM
  #58  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by DualPurposeXJ
That's one of the reasons I like the hybrid I posted. Just my .02
that could easily be done, but im sure one of the reasons the put those tubes inside was so the could tie them into there engine cage and have a place to mount there gauges.
Yeah, they tied directly into the OEM a-pillar. It was done great for what it was built to do.



Originally Posted by DualPurposeXJ
T&J's kit is awesome and fits great I would recommend it to anyone looking for a pre built cage.
I still agree, entirely. Awesome starting point.

Originally Posted by mtbfreak612
I would say if you want to stay relatively cheap then paper towel rolls is your best bet.
Awesome 8th post.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:19 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by mtbfreak612
I would say if you want to stay relatively cheap then paper towel rolls is your best bet.
I personally prefer using my arms to brace the unibody during a rollover
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by N20jeep

I personally prefer using my arms to brace the unibody during a rollover
If u want to stay safe buy some bubble wrap
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