Fallout

Hi guys, I need some help! Opinions actually. So here's the deal. I have 11 days to make a decision.

I have been researching and collecting parts for the past 6 months. In 11 days I take the XJ to have some major modifications done to it.

It is a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 - 231 - Dana 30 & Chrysler 8.25

It is getting Hooligan Offroad full frame stiffeners & cross member skid. Iron Rock Offroad Springs and mslc parts. Custom 1 ton steering and custom long arm lift. 35in tires put on. And was going to regear it! I do not want to swap out axles.

I have been saving, and budgeting everything accordingly. I go in and set the appoinment... The question was asked... Lockers.

Damn.. I completely forgot and overlooked lockers... I was super researching suspension, came across that subject, and told myself I was going to come back to that. But it slipped my mind. I told em Ima research it up before my appmnt.

I have a basic understanding of how they work, why it's SUPER important, and the different options. And holy sh*t they are expensive. lol.

So now the question of opinions at hand.... I pretty much have two options ahead of me that I can see right now. 1. Should I go ahead and regear, leave it an open differential on both ends; and later down the road, when I have funds then add lockers? Would I just waste a lot of money having them go back into it twice? Or 2. Do not regear it at all yet, and later down the road regear and locker it all up at the same time? I have read that if I don't regear it yet it's going to suck ballz!! Sluggesh, and waste fuel, and hard on the transmission etc. True? Thanx for any advice, or what you would do.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Yes, gearing compounded with a traction aid gets very pricey. This is why you see a lot of guys with lifts and big tires but no gear modification. very 'spensive. If you have the money to do it, I'd gear and lock it at the same time. If not, save and do it all at once. Running stock gears on 35's is going to absolutely suck but it's not the end of the world.

Fallout

Thank you for your input Jeepin'_Aint_EZ...!! I might just do that, I was leaning toward that direction.. Just the (SUCK) part kinda blows.. lol

00t444e

If you are going to run 35s I recommend a full case locker such as a Detroit locker or Yukon Grizzly. I have front and rear Spartans in mine but I only have 31s I wouldn't run lunchbox lockers on anything bigger than 33s. Stock gears with 35s will be terrible both on and off road if you decide to regear you should get at least 4.56 gears.

Fallout

Thanx 00t444e.... Yes, I was looking at air or electric lockers.. Can't decide really yet. I do plan on having a compressor in the Jeep to air up my tires, so I guess it would make sense to go the air route....?? I was going to have Yukon gears installed, proper gearing for the set up, I am assuming I'd have to go the Grizzly route. I'm just like holy crap everything adds up so fast, and it's like all or nothing... haha

srb53150

you can use any brand locker w/ yukon gears, air lockers cost the most, plus needing the compressor. been there done that twice. now i run a e-locker front & a detriot rear. 4.56 gears w/ 35's. save up do the gears & lockers at the same time , its cheaper that way. btw dont forget the alloy shafts. mo money, mo money, its not a cheap hobby.

XJlimitedx99

I've been running 35's on stock gears for like almost 2 years now. Yes it sucks but its not unbearable. Just saving funds to do gears and lockers. I've been debating what is right for me for a very long time. I think I've settled on 4.56s and selectables front and rear. Currently I'm leaning towards Ox lockers with the cable actuators. Somebody in my club has them and they're pretty slick.

Fred/N0AZZ

It might be a better choice for you to put the work off for a while till you can afford to do it properly the first time, I mean everything. Then when you have the money to do it correctly and use full case lockers (I chose Detroit Lockers) for mine both ends. As for gearing you didn't state usage where you will use it the most, with a 35" tire 4:88's will bring you back to equal the stock factory gearing.


With 35" tires and gears your weak point will be the axles, I have stock axles in mine (same as yours) and just carry spares if one is ever needed. for off road use.



Just my opinion but this locker combo is the best of both worlds and you just carry an air compressor for tires no plumbing required for air.

00t444e

I would do front and rear auto lockers(Detroit, Grizzly) or if you want a selectable put it in the front and put an auto locker in the rear.

Fallout

Right on guys, thanks for all the input!! I appreciate it. I decided to wait on the re gearing so I can locker them up at the same time.. It would be like basically doing it twice.. I'd rather do it once. I'll just take her easy for a while.. Hopefully, I can have that done in a few months. I think I'd like to go the electric route. The auto lockers are cool, I'm just concerned I wouldn't like the tire chirping and what not around corners n stuff during acceleration. Granted I guess there is a learning curve, maybe a small one to get used to it.... But I'd rather have the choice to engage it. That's just me though.

LACK

If you drive to accommodate an auto locker then there will be no chirping. They will engage and disengage and aside from a very faint clicking you wont know its there.

I have a spartan in mine and have no issues. I cant even hear it unless my windows are down.

00t444e

My rear Spartan only chirps the tires if I try to. If you drive normal it unlocks like it should.

Fallout

Alright cool, good to know guys!

TwistedWrench

This. You've waited this long, just put it off till you're ready to knock it all out.

If you drive it on the highway, with even MILD inclines, those 35s are going to be hell with stock gears. Seriously, you're going to hate it. I ditched my lovely '33s in exchange for 31s because I wasn't ready to gear it. I couldn't stand it anymore. Can't even imagine 35s.

LACK

For those of you wondering about RPM's at highway speeds with the 4.88's and 35's.


Speedometer is 5-6mph off, actual speed per the GPS was 70mph.