So I have a question regarding a possible towing setup.
The setup includes a full frame stiffened XJ, nates4x4 rear frame tie in, and a beefy rear bumper with a receiver.
Now disregarding the braking system, and deivetrain, would the setup be strong enough and reliable to substitute a class III Hitch up to the max towing weight of an XJ?

 

I made something like that for my XJ as they are very weak in that area. It defiantly helps with the bumper/tire carrier. But if you are adding a class three receiver what may help it more is a doing all the frame stiffeners. I am kind of going through the same dilemma as I'm working on a off road trailer and want my XJ stout for the abuse of off road-ing with a trailer in tow. I have to do some measuring but want to cut my receiver hitch on my bumper and go ahead and reinstall the tow bar that it originally had on it.

 

Be careful....cherokees are again very weak in that area.

I'm surprised more people haven't posted about issues with the frame cracking from the weight of the big rear bumpers & tire carriers.

Mine cracked from the weight of a cargo hauler, and it had a hitch with large spreader plates on it to help hold it all together. The cracks ran along the inner lower corner of the frame rails.

I only found them cuz I noticed the cargo hauler moved more easily, and when I looked to see if something was loose, I found the cracks.

 

A xj is rated for 5k but i wouldn't tow over 3k with one to be honest.At 3k you need trailer brakes and the short wheel base of the xj is not good for towing a lot of weight.

 

I totally agree that towing is not what they are made for, but they are also not made for 33"-37" tires, one ton steering and the abuse that goes with it on the trail. I especially feel that way after dissecting the uni-body for my camper build. The frame is stamped from very thin material. Frame stiffener's are needed when building a rig for wheeling anyways. And with a lot of XJ's the frames are already compromised due to rust from all the states that use magnesium on their roads. That is why I think if your frame is in good shape then reinforcing it would be your best bet so that you won't have to worry about it. (I would be more worried about stopping than anything else!)

On my rig I don't think that the hitch built into that bumper will hold up to all the torque the trailer will put on it even with the frame tie in (the tie in is mainly so that the weight of the tire and heavier bumper doesn't tear away), that is the main reason I would like to re-install the heavy duty tow hitch on mine and cut off the one built into that bumper (underneath).

I don't think my trailer will weigh more that 2k and the axle that is going under it is a Dexter 3.5k w/electric brakes. If the leaf springs/axle doesn't hold up and I am getting enough use out of the trailer I may consider switching to a Timbren system. At close to $900 I will wait and see.

 

Until you actually start digging into these like you did, or like I am currently doing working it back to shape after a roll over, the real true properties of the metal on these is taken for granted. Not only are they thin... The metal is soft. It has the malleability and ductile strength of lead. Even pure copper is stronger .

 

Yeah No kidding that uni-body is made out of very thin material! Shocking for sure when you cut though it.

 

As I reshape mine to try and get a windshield back into it (maybe) I have realized how soft these really are. The "ripples" in this were caused by a small imperfection in the very carefully rounded off 2X4 I am using to try and hammer and push this metal back into shape. Honestly... It is the first time I have ever not been able to just sit in the seats and "kick" a roof pretty much back into shape and I have done this to a LOT of vehicles of all makes, years and models.

This stuff is so soft it is making me earn every little inch. These things are TOO SOFT TO BE SAFE! Every bit of it... Pillars, Subframe and all... Go enlarge this and take a close look and you will see what I am trying to explain, and have been for a couple months now. Until you actually work this metal they are made of you will not understand what I am trying to share as a concerned Jeep owner.

 

On most cars the roof skin is the thinnest sheet metal,And the most pain in the rear to fix anything wrong with.I rather re skin a whole roof then try to body work one its less work really.

 

Thanks for all the great info guys. Last summer I had replaced all the floors due to rust, and welded on a full set of stiffeners, sealed with chasis saver, and also bedlined it. I feel like my chasis is pretty rugged (for an XJ), however I decided I won't tow using a bumper receiver. My main concern was ground clearance with a hitch. I guess I will look for the best clearance hitch.. I think the best are hidden hitch or drawtight. Again, thanks!