Rear disc brakes
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah that's right I'm doing a rear brake swap and i have a few questions about it. I believe I have all the components I need. I have backing plates, calipers, prop valve, and I think they are called axle studs (they connect the backing plate to the axle) all from a donor 95' grand. I have new lug nut studs, fluids, gaskets, and will be getting new pads soon. Is there anything I'm missing parts wise?
More importantly will I need to modify the hard brake lines on my XJ so they will properly screw in and fit with the soft lines from the calipers or into the prop valve.
I'm doing my swap on Tuesday/Wednesday (my "weekend") and this is a DD so I want to make sure I have as few surprises as possible.
Thank you guys.
I just realized this is the first time I've started a thread in the modified section.
More importantly will I need to modify the hard brake lines on my XJ so they will properly screw in and fit with the soft lines from the calipers or into the prop valve.
I'm doing my swap on Tuesday/Wednesday (my "weekend") and this is a DD so I want to make sure I have as few surprises as possible.
Thank you guys.
I just realized this is the first time I've started a thread in the modified section.
Last edited by PNWjeeper; 03-29-2013 at 10:03 PM.
#2
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm some what disappointed CF. I've asked this question 3 times in the ask the question thread with no response. So I figured i would get a better result with an actual thread, two hours in and nothing? Somebody has to have info on this, even if you just point me in the direction of another thread (although I'm sure I've searched them all)
#3
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: New Milford, CT
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah you've got it all.
Just going to need to bore out the backing plates a little bit more.
I welded nuts to my axle tube and bolted my soft line to it, and then i ran new hard brake lines from the tee on top of the axle to the soft lines.
Just going to need to bore out the backing plates a little bit more.
I welded nuts to my axle tube and bolted my soft line to it, and then i ran new hard brake lines from the tee on top of the axle to the soft lines.
#4
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's going on a D35 so I shouldn't have to bore out the backing plates, not until I go bigger at least or that's been my understanding. I'm glad there is nothing I need to do with the brake lines I was nervous about that, I don't have the tools or anymore cash to put into this project.
#5
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,876
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
When you get to the brake lines, it will make perfect sense and will be easy.
You're good to go. Did you get the whole prop valve from the GC? Wanna save yourself a ton of work? Just swap the "guts" of the prop valve to yours.
You're good to go. Did you get the whole prop valve from the GC? Wanna save yourself a ton of work? Just swap the "guts" of the prop valve to yours.
#7
CF Veteran
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...-8-25-a-57807/ (this took all of 9 seconds to find)
You DON"T have to bore the hole bigger for a Dana 35.
You can used just the guts to make it a easier swap.
You DON"T have to bore the hole bigger for a Dana 35.
You can used just the guts to make it a easier swap.
Last edited by Big David; 03-30-2013 at 08:05 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,876
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#9
Don't know if you plan on modifying the xj e-brake cables or buying new ones. I tried to modify my xj ones when I did the swap. They didn't come out how I would of liked them so I went and got cables from napa and they just snapped right in. I think they were $40 for both. Driver side cable was a little long so I had to loop it.
#10
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Don't know if you plan on modifying the xj e-brake cables or buying new ones. I tried to modify my xj ones when I did the swap. They didn't come out how I would of liked them so I went and got cables from napa and they just snapped right in. I think they were $40 for both. Driver side cable was a little long so I had to loop it.
#11
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I don't see how swapping the guts is gonna be easier? Seems like it would be more work however i didn't actually read how to do it because the write-you saw said he did not suggest doing it.
#12
#13
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,876
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Huh? One cap, removing the guts and putting new guts is harder than swapping a complete prop valve?
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
since we are on the subject, i should be picking up an XJ dana 44, will ZJ disc parts will work on it? or are the 44 tubes too big?