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rear break lines

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Old 11-02-2016, 01:24 PM
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Default rear break lines

Upon inspection my rear break lines are totally rusted. Accident waiting to happen. Not sure, prob have to replace from the prop. valve back to axle. Anyone have any tips for me like... methodology, cheapest way to go (this for sure), any write-ups out there? pit falls? tool list? thanks.
oh... its a 2000 xj and it has a 3" lift. ill need special rear rubber line (cheapest?)
Old 11-02-2016, 03:13 PM
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I had to replace mine a couple of years ago, they were rusted and ended up breaking near the rubber line from the body to the axle. I had to replace from the master cylinder all the way back to the wheel cylinders. I had to replace the wheel cylinders as well because the lines were rusted to them. I had to tear all the rear pads apart to replace the wheel cylinders so well I was at it I went ahead and replaced everything. I used a rear line for a 95 wrangler I believe for the rubber line, its longer than stock. If you look online there are a lot of write ups on cheap extended brake lines for XJ's. As far as running the lines it is a PITA. I measured the lengths of line needed and bought the pre-made lengths to replace them. I have never had very good luck trying to flare the line myself, but if you want to go that route, you can usually rent a flare kit from the parts store and give it a try yourself. My XJ is a 2000 as well with 4.5in lift.

Last edited by jeeperreaper; 11-02-2016 at 03:21 PM.
Old 11-02-2016, 03:39 PM
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I replaced the hardline that goes all the way to the rear a couple years ago. I was able to find a prebent line that was a direct fit. Here is the part number I used 52127967. Might want to double check that, but it should get you started. I didn't want to mess with bending and flaring lines so this was the easiest solution.
Old 11-02-2016, 04:22 PM
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Nicopp brake lines are the only way to go. They come in a roll from your local auto part store and are SUPER easy to work with. They also look nice but most importantly are rust-proof.
Old 11-02-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HYRYSC
Nicopp brake lines are the only way to go. They come in a roll from your local auto part store and are SUPER easy to work with. They also look nice but most importantly are rust-proof.
x2 on the Nicopp. Making your own brake lines sounds much more intimidating than it actually is. Yes, it's important to properly double flare your lines but you can easily learn how to do it. Remember to put your fittings on BEFORE you flare lol. Your bends don't need to match the factory line. Send the ol girl in there and bend as you go. 3/16" line is soooo easy to work with.


Old 11-03-2016, 01:11 AM
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A trick i learned years ago take a metal coat hanger cut the hook off and straighten it out.Now use that to mock up your bends it can save you some trail and error.And yeah always put the fitting on before you flare it or else you'll have to cut the flare off and start over.
Old 11-03-2016, 01:12 AM
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For cheaper rubber lines longer jeep yj are longer and cheap at any parts store vs what we pay for longer aftermarket xj ones.
Old 11-03-2016, 03:09 AM
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Did my entire rear lines a few years back on my '00. No ABS. No lift.
x3 on the Nicopp. Instead of buying a whole roll I, it would have given me twice as much as I needed, I bought premade lengths of Nicopp and cut them down. 3/16" line. Use 2 pieces with a union to go from the proportioning valve back to the rubber hose on the diff. Just made it easier to handle
Replaced the rubber hose to. Use flare nut wrenches. I recommend buying this tool at Napa to flare lines. Will only do 3/16" and is a little pricey but combined with the Nicopp lines makes flaring a breeze.

SER 161A


You will notice that on premade lines one fitting is longer then the other. The longer one goes to the wheel cylinder. You will want to keep the short line coming off the proportioning valve. Believe it is #4. You will need the adapter to connect the new brake line to that. Any auto parts store should be able to hook you up. I just do gravity bleeds. You start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest one. So rear passenger side first and then do rear driver side. A little time consuming but a piece of cake. Just use care when removing the old long rear brake line because of the other lines running up there with it.
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Last edited by Ralph77; 11-03-2016 at 03:17 AM.
Old 11-03-2016, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ


LOL. Did that myself too many times. Get in the groove, make a perfect double flare and then realize, "crap, where the heck is the fitting?!!"
Old 11-03-2016, 10:20 AM
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Yup. I bought a roll of that new brake line when I did my axle swap a few years ago. Brake line never goes bad sitting in a drawer and I already used the roll up with other brake repairs on other vehicles.

For me, the roll purchase was cheaper over all than buying little lines and piecing them together with fittings and such.

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