rear break lines
#1
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Model: Cherokee
rear break lines
Upon inspection my rear break lines are totally rusted. Accident waiting to happen. Not sure, prob have to replace from the prop. valve back to axle. Anyone have any tips for me like... methodology, cheapest way to go (this for sure), any write-ups out there? pit falls? tool list? thanks.
oh... its a 2000 xj and it has a 3" lift. ill need special rear rubber line (cheapest?)
oh... its a 2000 xj and it has a 3" lift. ill need special rear rubber line (cheapest?)
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I had to replace mine a couple of years ago, they were rusted and ended up breaking near the rubber line from the body to the axle. I had to replace from the master cylinder all the way back to the wheel cylinders. I had to replace the wheel cylinders as well because the lines were rusted to them. I had to tear all the rear pads apart to replace the wheel cylinders so well I was at it I went ahead and replaced everything. I used a rear line for a 95 wrangler I believe for the rubber line, its longer than stock. If you look online there are a lot of write ups on cheap extended brake lines for XJ's. As far as running the lines it is a PITA. I measured the lengths of line needed and bought the pre-made lengths to replace them. I have never had very good luck trying to flare the line myself, but if you want to go that route, you can usually rent a flare kit from the parts store and give it a try yourself. My XJ is a 2000 as well with 4.5in lift.
Last edited by jeeperreaper; 11-02-2016 at 03:21 PM.
#3
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I replaced the hardline that goes all the way to the rear a couple years ago. I was able to find a prebent line that was a direct fit. Here is the part number I used 52127967. Might want to double check that, but it should get you started. I didn't want to mess with bending and flaring lines so this was the easiest solution.
#4
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nicopp brake lines are the only way to go. They come in a roll from your local auto part store and are SUPER easy to work with. They also look nice but most importantly are rust-proof.
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Year: 1998
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#6
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A trick i learned years ago take a metal coat hanger cut the hook off and straighten it out.Now use that to mock up your bends it can save you some trail and error.And yeah always put the fitting on before you flare it or else you'll have to cut the flare off and start over.
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#8
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Did my entire rear lines a few years back on my '00. No ABS. No lift.
x3 on the Nicopp. Instead of buying a whole roll I, it would have given me twice as much as I needed, I bought premade lengths of Nicopp and cut them down. 3/16" line. Use 2 pieces with a union to go from the proportioning valve back to the rubber hose on the diff. Just made it easier to handle
Replaced the rubber hose to. Use flare nut wrenches. I recommend buying this tool at Napa to flare lines. Will only do 3/16" and is a little pricey but combined with the Nicopp lines makes flaring a breeze.
SER 161A
You will notice that on premade lines one fitting is longer then the other. The longer one goes to the wheel cylinder. You will want to keep the short line coming off the proportioning valve. Believe it is #4. You will need the adapter to connect the new brake line to that. Any auto parts store should be able to hook you up. I just do gravity bleeds. You start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest one. So rear passenger side first and then do rear driver side. A little time consuming but a piece of cake. Just use care when removing the old long rear brake line because of the other lines running up there with it.
x3 on the Nicopp. Instead of buying a whole roll I, it would have given me twice as much as I needed, I bought premade lengths of Nicopp and cut them down. 3/16" line. Use 2 pieces with a union to go from the proportioning valve back to the rubber hose on the diff. Just made it easier to handle
Replaced the rubber hose to. Use flare nut wrenches. I recommend buying this tool at Napa to flare lines. Will only do 3/16" and is a little pricey but combined with the Nicopp lines makes flaring a breeze.
SER 161A
You will notice that on premade lines one fitting is longer then the other. The longer one goes to the wheel cylinder. You will want to keep the short line coming off the proportioning valve. Believe it is #4. You will need the adapter to connect the new brake line to that. Any auto parts store should be able to hook you up. I just do gravity bleeds. You start with the one farthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest one. So rear passenger side first and then do rear driver side. A little time consuming but a piece of cake. Just use care when removing the old long rear brake line because of the other lines running up there with it.
Last edited by Ralph77; 11-03-2016 at 03:17 AM.
#9
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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#10
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Year: 1999
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Yup. I bought a roll of that new brake line when I did my axle swap a few years ago. Brake line never goes bad sitting in a drawer and I already used the roll up with other brake repairs on other vehicles.
For me, the roll purchase was cheaper over all than buying little lines and piecing them together with fittings and such.
For me, the roll purchase was cheaper over all than buying little lines and piecing them together with fittings and such.