RCV cv joint axles for the dana 30
#1
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Year: 1998
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RCV cv joint axles for the dana 30
Anyone ever use or have any experience with the rcv axles? Instead of keeping the ear and ujoint setup, i was thinking about going this route when i re gear and get the lockers. Lifetime warranty, no ?'s asked so i figure its def worth it for the 1k for axles. If i was to go this route, i would just truss the dana 30 and throw on some 35 or 37 once she becomes a trail rig. no more worrying about broken shaft ears!
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Year: 1996
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at the end of the day its still a dana 30. they are nice and i know few guys running them and all have said they wished the spend the money on tons because when it becomes a trail only rig eventually the limits of the 30 become clear and you step up to a 60
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True, but what limits are you going to run into if you have an axle that wont break? the only thing i can think of is possibly the ring and pinion giving out eventually
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you still have a weak narrow housing (even trussed) and limited gearing options. I've seen more then a few 30 R&Ps take out the diff. IMO if you gonna dump a grand for shafts a good $500 for a full truss and all new mounts and another grand or so for ring and pinion plus a locker you could build a 60 for about the same money.
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Year: 97
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What he said. I went thru 2 sets of 4.56s on my old 30. Ring and pinion would be your weak link but those shafts are sweet.
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Year: 1993
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True, the Dana 30 is a good axle, but the D/30 does have it's limits, and that is at about 35 inch tires. That is why I'm just going to run 4340, 30 spline shafts which are about 1/2 the cost, instead of making the R & P my weak link.
Last edited by Rock Toy; 03-09-2011 at 02:16 PM.
#7
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yeah these shafts make your R&P the weak point, and its no fun replacing those. i feel theres better places to spend your money
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#8
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if you need 37s to wheel you probably need tons....otherwise beef your 30 a little and stick to 33s...i out wheeled a tj on 37s locked f/r and tons this past weekend on my 32s locked rear only...he was too big for our tight trails and washouts...look at what kind of wheeling you do as well... just a little tip...
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^x2
I went wheeling with some big rigs and the reason I bought a Cherokee was that the only rig that went everywhere that the Cherokee in the group went was Brent Burton's 4 door TJ the 2006 TTC winner. I heard him say " Hell I should have just bought a Cherokee "! My built to the max Blazer needed help getting up two places that the Cherokee made it up, and he was running 31s or 32s while I was running 40s.
Light weight and good gearing with lockers just flat works in the rocks anyway.
I went wheeling with some big rigs and the reason I bought a Cherokee was that the only rig that went everywhere that the Cherokee in the group went was Brent Burton's 4 door TJ the 2006 TTC winner. I heard him say " Hell I should have just bought a Cherokee "! My built to the max Blazer needed help getting up two places that the Cherokee made it up, and he was running 31s or 32s while I was running 40s.
Light weight and good gearing with lockers just flat works in the rocks anyway.
Last edited by Rock Toy; 03-09-2011 at 02:27 PM.
#10
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I was thinking About in the future choping and inch off the lift and going down to about 4 or so with 35's. If you total up those axles, 1100, elocker, 800, ring and pinion, 300, you have 2200 give or take. I have seen some axle assemblies for a bit more than that locked, chromoly axles, and ring and pinion of choice. Custom width and all that. It was an option I have never thought of tho or really looked into. And yeah I love the Cherokee I'm so glad I went with it to build up
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Year: 1993
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All I've done so far on the Cherokee build is buying the axle parts, but I've done a little wheeling stock and it does OK. With it locked and lifted, with a set of 35s, I'm thinking I'll really be loving it.
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