Radius arm rear.
#1
Radius arm rear.
Ok so I know that there has to be cons to running a rear radius arm set up. My question is what are they? Are they important enough to detour me from building one for my xj? I was planning a set up similar to this.
I built my front suspension which is a radius arm set up. And I have seen TJ's running this set up in the rear so I know it can be done.
My main reason for not going with a double triangulated rear is dealing with all the anti squat. And I like the ease of mind with running a track bar, rather then trusting that u got all the geometry correct and that it will positively control the side to side movement.
So question is, is it worth it to build a radius arm rear?
I built my front suspension which is a radius arm set up. And I have seen TJ's running this set up in the rear so I know it can be done.
My main reason for not going with a double triangulated rear is dealing with all the anti squat. And I like the ease of mind with running a track bar, rather then trusting that u got all the geometry correct and that it will positively control the side to side movement.
So question is, is it worth it to build a radius arm rear?
#2
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Year: 92
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rear radius arms mean
wheel hop, unloading, short bushing/joint life, TONS of antisquat, binding. pretty much it will climb like ***. and rear track bars are dumb.
triangulated links > panhard bars
with a true 4 link rear, you can tune out the antisquat and make a much more stable and consistent setup. and you can build it to be completely tuneable if you're worried about geometry then play around with a 4 link calculator some.
wheel hop, unloading, short bushing/joint life, TONS of antisquat, binding. pretty much it will climb like ***. and rear track bars are dumb.
triangulated links > panhard bars
with a true 4 link rear, you can tune out the antisquat and make a much more stable and consistent setup. and you can build it to be completely tuneable if you're worried about geometry then play around with a 4 link calculator some.
Last edited by N20jeep; 08-03-2012 at 10:31 PM.
#3
Ok, I have seen some stuff like what u have said, and some people who have run them say different. I want to just go the double tri 4 link, but I'm just hesitant on the geometry factor.
I have seen your build thread. Is it possible I can get your geometry numbers?
Axle separation
Frame separation
Lower length
Upper length
Degree/measurement of triangulation.
???
Are u happy with your 4 link?
I have seen your build thread. Is it possible I can get your geometry numbers?
Axle separation
Frame separation
Lower length
Upper length
Degree/measurement of triangulation.
???
Are u happy with your 4 link?
#4
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok, I have seen some stuff like what u have said, and some people who have run them say different. I want to just go the double tri 4 link, but I'm just hesitant on the geometry factor.
I have seen your build thread. Is it possible I can get your geometry numbers?
Axle separation
Frame separation
Lower length
Upper length
Degree/measurement of triangulation.
???
Are u happy with your 4 link?
I have seen your build thread. Is it possible I can get your geometry numbers?
Axle separation
Frame separation
Lower length
Upper length
Degree/measurement of triangulation.
???
Are u happy with your 4 link?
yea, ill get under there probably tomorrow and take some measurements to give you some exact numbers.
i think i ended up a little over 100% anitsquat
i am very happy with it, there is really nothing i would change. works very well offroad and drive great on the highway.
Last edited by N20jeep; 08-04-2012 at 09:41 AM.
#7
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Just take the time and build the a single triangulated 4 link or double youll be alot happier in the end and rear track bars are dumb just triangulate the links
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