Question for guys with 35's and 6.5 or 5.5 inches of lift.
05-01-2012, 03:35 PM
#16
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 ohh
I was just wanting to know how happy people out there are that are running 6.5 or 5.5 inches of lift with 35's? Are you happy with it or do you wish it was bigger? Im going to buy an iron rock offroad long arm 6.5 and just want to know if that size is a good size to run with 35's. Let me know planning to order soon and just want some good advice. Pictures would be great also with your input.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
05-01-2012, 03:38 PM
#17
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
My 35s and 5"s of lift is perfect for me and what I do.
The only thing I'd do differently is a set of 37" red labels on the same height lift.
Keep in mind, with that amount of lift and tire you're going to have to be generous with the trimming, precise on the bump stopping, and run a good shock set-up. Don't cut corners when you build this thing and you'll be MUCH happier in the end.
This part usually doesn't work but I'll try since you haven't bought it yet:
I'd suggest shopping around for a kit that doesn't use rubber bushings all around and that's not a radius arm set-up with a poorly designed castor adjuster. Lots of people are happy with it but there a much better kits out there.
35's and 5"
The only thing I'd do differently is a set of 37" red labels on the same height lift.
Keep in mind, with that amount of lift and tire you're going to have to be generous with the trimming, precise on the bump stopping, and run a good shock set-up. Don't cut corners when you build this thing and you'll be MUCH happier in the end.
This part usually doesn't work but I'll try since you haven't bought it yet:
I'd suggest shopping around for a kit that doesn't use rubber bushings all around and that's not a radius arm set-up with a poorly designed castor adjuster. Lots of people are happy with it but there a much better kits out there.
35's and 5"
My other choice was serious long arms but Im wanting the removable transfer case crossmember for ease in repairs. My brother is in Minneapolis so that would save me shipping also unless serious gave me free shipping. But I doubt it.
05-01-2012, 03:39 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by wader218
I have the 35's already, with a Ford 8.8, and a beefed up Dana 30. Just wanting to know if people who use there jeeps offraod are happy with their setup. Alot of money to gamble on lol.
For my front i did 30 spline chromolly axles
05-01-2012, 03:41 PM
#19
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Year: 1996
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Most the guys were running 6.5 and 35's at MIOBI. A guy in our xj club just went up to 9.5". Im planning on 5.5 on 35's or 6.5 on 37's. If a mud truck that has 59" tires can make it up a hill without tipping i doubt a baby xj will even come close. I saw 2 guys put both driver side tires in the air and didnt tip it. one was on 7.5".
05-01-2012, 03:45 PM
#20
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05-01-2012, 04:15 PM
#21
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Year: 1996
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I like my 6.5 and 35s. Sometimes I wish I was lower while other times higher. Lots of flex up front at 14 inch travel shocks. Planning on 37s at same height.
05-01-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wader218
Im gonna weld the tubes to the center sections. Im not going to a truss cause mostly mud, hills, and ruts is what I do. I never get into rocks. Nothing to crazy.
05-01-2012, 05:24 PM
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Year: 1992
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I run 35s at 4.5" of lift. I had to put in about 4.25" worth of bumpstop in the front. Sometimes i wish i had another inch of uptravel but i'm happy with what i got.
05-01-2012, 09:32 PM
#25
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Ok guys question two. Do I really need to spend the extra money on long arms or should I stick with short arms? All I ever get into is mud, hills, and ruts so it flexes quit a bit somtimes. Done fine so far would long arms make life that much better to get them?
05-01-2012, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wader218
Ok guys question two. Do I really need to spend the extra money on long arms or should I stick with short arms? All I ever get into is mud, hills, and ruts so it flexes quit a bit somtimes. Done fine so far would long arms make life that much better to get them?
05-01-2012, 09:37 PM
#27
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Year: 1992
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You could go with drop brackets to gain some more articulation and cut down on the cost.
I wheel mostly mud and hills also and longarms are more of a want than a need for me.
I wheel mostly mud and hills also and longarms are more of a want than a need for me.
05-01-2012, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
doesnt look like that weld is doing anything. can't just mig to a cast housing and expect it to penetrate at all.
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