Hey everyone I'm currently doing my floor pans and I noticed rust leaking down behind my fuse block. Obviously this is concerning and as much as I really really don't want to pull the dash out I fear I need to do just that and im looking for some advice.
This is an 88 xj.
How hard is it to pull the dash and what is the best way to seal the firewall from leaks?
This is an 88 xj.
How hard is it to pull the dash and what is the best way to seal the firewall from leaks?
Senior Member
No need to pull the dash to fix your issues. It would certainly give you more room, but taking out the front seat does so as well...
The way the misc. sheet metal panels comes together does a very good job of preventing leaks from occurring. Other than the various holes through the firewall, such as the fuse panel and hvac blower, there's only two other potential leak point; the vertical seams to the outside of the hood hinges. But your issue is most likely the fuse panel gasket; there's nothing else that will show up as "rust leaking down behind my fuse block".
Under the hood, you'll need to disconnect the engine bay wiring harness from the fuse panel. It's a small bolt at the center. 6 - 8mm range.
Then from inside, loosen the torx screws securing the fuse panel to the firewall. I say loosen, because if you can have someone pull back on the fuse panel, or rig up something, you can then finger sealant in around the edge of the opening in the sheetmetal, then just tighten it back up, reconnect and done...
You DO NOT want to try and replace that gasket. It doesn't exist in the aftermarket and you stand a good chance of tearing it trying to remove it. You'll need to remove the dash to get any movement out of the fuse panel as the harness routes tightly into the corner and then up and over a support bar extending over to the steering column. Loosen, seal, retighten; much easier...
The way the misc. sheet metal panels comes together does a very good job of preventing leaks from occurring. Other than the various holes through the firewall, such as the fuse panel and hvac blower, there's only two other potential leak point; the vertical seams to the outside of the hood hinges. But your issue is most likely the fuse panel gasket; there's nothing else that will show up as "rust leaking down behind my fuse block".
Under the hood, you'll need to disconnect the engine bay wiring harness from the fuse panel. It's a small bolt at the center. 6 - 8mm range.
Then from inside, loosen the torx screws securing the fuse panel to the firewall. I say loosen, because if you can have someone pull back on the fuse panel, or rig up something, you can then finger sealant in around the edge of the opening in the sheetmetal, then just tighten it back up, reconnect and done...
You DO NOT want to try and replace that gasket. It doesn't exist in the aftermarket and you stand a good chance of tearing it trying to remove it. You'll need to remove the dash to get any movement out of the fuse panel as the harness routes tightly into the corner and then up and over a support bar extending over to the steering column. Loosen, seal, retighten; much easier...
Quote:
The way the misc. sheet metal panels comes together does a very good job of preventing leaks from occurring. Other than the various holes through the firewall, such as the fuse panel and hvac blower, there's only two other potential leak point; the vertical seams to the outside of the hood hinges. But your issue is most likely the fuse panel gasket; there's nothing else that will show up as "rust leaking down behind my fuse block".
Under the hood, you'll need to disconnect the engine bay wiring harness from the fuse panel. It's a small bolt at the center. 6 - 8mm range.
Then from inside, loosen the torx screws securing the fuse panel to the firewall. I say loosen, because if you can have someone pull back on the fuse panel, or rig up something, you can then finger sealant in around the edge of the opening in the sheetmetal, then just tighten it back up, reconnect and done...
You DO NOT want to try and replace that gasket. It doesn't exist in the aftermarket and you stand a good chance of tearing it trying to remove it. You'll need to remove the dash to get any movement out of the fuse panel as the harness routes tightly into the corner and then up and over a support bar extending over to the steering column. Loosen, seal, retighten; much easier...
Originally Posted by Jim Malcolm
No need to pull the dash to fix your issues. It would certainly give you more room, but taking out the front seat does so as well...The way the misc. sheet metal panels comes together does a very good job of preventing leaks from occurring. Other than the various holes through the firewall, such as the fuse panel and hvac blower, there's only two other potential leak point; the vertical seams to the outside of the hood hinges. But your issue is most likely the fuse panel gasket; there's nothing else that will show up as "rust leaking down behind my fuse block".
Under the hood, you'll need to disconnect the engine bay wiring harness from the fuse panel. It's a small bolt at the center. 6 - 8mm range.
Then from inside, loosen the torx screws securing the fuse panel to the firewall. I say loosen, because if you can have someone pull back on the fuse panel, or rig up something, you can then finger sealant in around the edge of the opening in the sheetmetal, then just tighten it back up, reconnect and done...
You DO NOT want to try and replace that gasket. It doesn't exist in the aftermarket and you stand a good chance of tearing it trying to remove it. You'll need to remove the dash to get any movement out of the fuse panel as the harness routes tightly into the corner and then up and over a support bar extending over to the steering column. Loosen, seal, retighten; much easier...
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you very much.
Am I able to get a rust inhibitor on it this way? Or do I need to worry about that?
Senior Member
Rust inhibitor? Never had luck with any quick fix.
You can remove the screws and pull it back a couple inches. Might give you enough room to get an angle sander in there and clean up the rust. You can unbolt the support bar from the kick panel and steering column and get more movement out of the harness.
I would most definitely enclose the fuse panel in a plastic bag before sanding on anything...
Still don't see a need to remove the dash..
You can remove the screws and pull it back a couple inches. Might give you enough room to get an angle sander in there and clean up the rust. You can unbolt the support bar from the kick panel and steering column and get more movement out of the harness.
I would most definitely enclose the fuse panel in a plastic bag before sanding on anything...
Still don't see a need to remove the dash..
Quote:
You can remove the screws and pull it back a couple inches. Might give you enough room to get an angle sander in there and clean up the rust. You can unbolt the support bar from the kick panel and steering column and get more movement out of the harness.
I would most definitely enclose the fuse panel in a plastic bag before sanding on anything...
Still don't see a need to remove the dash..
Originally Posted by Jim Malcolm
Rust inhibitor? Never had luck with any quick fix.You can remove the screws and pull it back a couple inches. Might give you enough room to get an angle sander in there and clean up the rust. You can unbolt the support bar from the kick panel and steering column and get more movement out of the harness.
I would most definitely enclose the fuse panel in a plastic bag before sanding on anything...
Still don't see a need to remove the dash..
That's awesome thanks man.
Yeah I have some POR-15 I'm using to treat the metal I'm not replacing with fresh steel to stop existing rust from progressing
Senior Member
Not a fan of POR15. You have to use the Metal Prep and follow the steps very well, including roughing up good bare metal. If I'm going through all that, an epoxy primer is a vastly superior product. Moisture cure urethanes, like POR15, have their place, but 2-part epoxy is next level. It's not bad at all to work with, a paintbrush works just fine, just don't get it on you skin, otherwise you'll be wearing it for a few days...
I already bought the POR-15 but I appreciate the recommendation!
It's only treating a hand full of spots that aren't being replaced with fresh steel!
I'm sure it'll be fine!
Thanks for the advice on the fuse block though man that's a big help!
It's only treating a hand full of spots that aren't being replaced with fresh steel!
I'm sure it'll be fine!
Thanks for the advice on the fuse block though man that's a big help!
Senior Member
Quote:
2-part epoxy primer is what every body shop uses; standard fare... I used some PPG from a local paint supplier and some mil-spec Sherwin Williams I got off ebay; very happy with both. I used a paint brush.Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
Where can you get a 2 part epoxy primer, and whats its name
SPI is the forum boner: https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/epoxy-primer
U-Pol Raptor uses an epoxy primer for their bed liner that's available in most any well stocked auto parts store, or Amazon... https://u-pol.com/en-us/product/bed-...xy-primer-kit/
Summit Racing carries a number of options but I would avoid Eastwood like the plague...