PocketsEmpty

I have finally decided that I am going to install my own lift in my own garage, with as little help from my Jeep buddies as possible. Originally was going to use their garage and expertise, not to mention all the tools they have to help me get this done, but the problem is I want to POR15 everything while it's apart. That would tie up their garage for weeks. So.....

Here's what I'm going for. I already have acquired the Rusty's Longarms kit, so please spare me the arguments on why I should choose something else, why it is bad, etc. I have it, it's paid for, it's going on my Jeep.

-Rusty's Longarms
-RE 4.5" coil springs + 1.75" coil spacers
-Rusty's 4.5" full leafs (they are used, so maybe some sag) + 1.5" Teraflex shackles
-RC adjustable track bar (will this work with a Rusty's track bar bracket?)

Shooting for around 5.5" of lift. I've done tons of research since I've been on here, and confident in my ability to get this done, but it is a leap for me. I'm scared the most of the front suspension components, and the crossmember/ frame rail support mounts.

Can anyone tell me what special tools I might need for this? I've read somewhere a 1" hole saw for the crossmember frame tie-ins. I have basic hand tools, wrenches, 3/8" and 1/4" sockets, a nice drill and a dremel. I know I'll need to cut off the stock control arm brackets, hoping I could get that done with an angle grinder or sawzall, two tools of which I know I need.

If anyone has done the Rusty's install and could give me a few pointers or show me any build threads of people that have detailed this out, I'd greatly appreciate it! Noob here with great aspirations!

Lowrange2

The track bar is going to depend on the end it's used. Every RC track bar I've seen uses the OEM bracket.

I've never installed that kit but I assume they use DOM sleeves thru the unibody. I'd suggest having these welded in place.

Other than that, you might want to borrow a coil spring compressor if you don't have a way to lift everything really high in the air.

A big hammer. You're going to need a big hammer.

PocketsEmpty

Thanks, lol, I do have a hammer but I'm sure a bigger one would be useful. You are correct about the sleeves. Will 6-ton jack stands be enough to lift it high enough during the install? The spring compressors sketch me out. This is the same kit I have...

stang65

sawsall and grinder will remove the lower stock brackets. take your time drilling the cross member joints and install crossmember before removing stock front suspension.
what we did for my dads was crossmember rear lift then front lift. we used jack stands and blocks of wood under the jacks to reach our desired hieght remember always to have a set of stands under the jeep when lift it with a jack. you dont want to have a xj land on you its not fun. if you can lift the front heigh enough with blocks and a jack you will not need a spring compresser to install springs.

as for the long arms I would grease the zerts and polly mounts befor putting them under the jeep. make sure the zerts can be easily be acsessed before tighting it all down. the brake lines will require a cool mind stripping them is easy.
after the long arms springs are installed lower the front down on the ground check to see if the tires are siting evenly to the frame and install the track bar and other compents

PocketsEmpty

Thanks. I'm mostly worried about the crossmember at this point. The instructions I found here say stuff about unbolting the transmission mount. Why is that exactly? Those instructions really aren't the best and don't provide any helpful pictures

JerrytheJeep

The transmission mount bolts to the stock crossmember. Because you are replacing that crossmember, you need to remove the transmission mount. Good luck!

Xj88

Did you decide on the lift? Just curious.
I applaud you for going rustys..people dont give them enough credit. The TB would scare me though...they have bad tendencies .
I would liked to have seen the Rustys 4 link though.

fallenknight308

I see that you are hell bent on Rusty's, and that's ok.
However I would get a RE track bar, or tougher.
after you-tubing Rusty's TB, I cant say as I would ever buy one.
The beefier your TB, and its links are the better. No such thing as overkill where that part is concerned imho. Be safe, have fun!

PocketsEmpty

I decided because I got a heck of a deal on them from someone in the area who rolled his XJ and was parting it out. A few others in my area run Rusty's long arms with other assorted lift parts and have had no issues. I'd like to get a brand new kit, but just can't afford it and this is already paid for and I already have the other stuff too. I might want to get new bushings, and one of the zerk fittings is nearly ground off.

As far as the track bar, I actually have the Rusty's adjustable, busted, in my garage that came with the longarms. They said it might be fixable but I don't plan on running it at all. I got the RC adjustable from a friend for 50 bucks and was hoping I could use that with the Rusty's bracket. I guess I'll have to see if it bolts up. It certainly is much better quality than the Rusty's from what I can tell.

Thank you! I guess I'm worried about drilling into the frame rail. I saw somewhere about having to drop the tranny/transfercase to drill the holes on the inside. I hope I don't have to do that! Anyone have experience with the drilling part of the crossmember install?

Xj88

Looking at the pic of the x member it appears the cross member sandwiches the unibody and bolts through it.
You should be able to drill from the outside and just slip the bolts through.. cant speak from experience though

PocketsEmpty

That's what I'm thinking/hoping. I'm going to talk to some of my (distant) friends who have them later today and hopefully they'll respond.

stang65

when drilling on the frame rail make sure to move the gas lines down and out of the way

JerrytheJeep

X2 the driver side frame rail has brake and gas lines on it.

PocketsEmpty

I will be sure to do that since I have a fuel line to replace anyways. From the engine bay back to the tank. Rusty as all hell

Lowrange2

The only hard part about doing this is making sure you drill STRAIGHT thru the frame rail. They need to be perfectly concentric.