Please help ford 8.8 swap gone wrong!!!
Let me start by saying thank you to anyone who can help I'm in panic mode my jeep is my daily driver and I need to get to work. I took my jeep to a known jeep and truck shop they do restorations, axle swaps, gears, lifts etc. I took my 99 2 door xj in over a month ago to do the Ford 8.8 swap black magic brakes front and rear with rotors. They changed the wheel bearings and I did new gears front and rear 5.13. after 3 weeks when I was told 3 days I received my jeep I was so excited this is my first build where I picked out almost everything anyways bad vibrations immediately on deceleration I took it back they said they talked to other shops I need a new driveshaft I get a Tom woods stock replacement my old one was bad lots of rust etc. Get it back and same thing except now I hear my transfer case slapping like the chain is loose or broken it still drove they said my transfer case is broken they did replace it for free since they felt at fault my transfer case did work perfectly before I get it back and they assured me it was not making noise get down the road same thing except now the transmission or transfer case is making noise from the trans hump didn't do that before but I still have vibs. They said they had to mount the diff off center I know the 8.8 is off center but could that cause this? Are the gears in wrong. Is the driveshaft angle that messed up? At this point I'm stressed if Im late for work again I'm written up then after a few times fired. I planned for a rent a car for a week we are over a month I spent 3 grand on labor and over 2 grand on parts. I can't spend anymore I'm scared they messed up my whole jeep I was trying to build it right good brakes axle disc brakes in the rear stronger axle etc. The Ford 8.8 swap kit was from iron rock off road. I also purchased the 8.8 adapter could this be off balance? The vibrations are when I let off the gas mostly or high speeds aka 60 now but now I have a sandpaper like grinding noise from the trans tunnel goes up and down with rpms. Could this have messed up my transmission as well? My rpms are higher than the calculator said I'm sure that's normal I'm at 3k at 70 with 33s yes I plan on going bigger and keeping it at 65 tops. Sorry for the rant and run on sentences I'm stressed and paid a lot of money now I'm out and I've taken it back multiple times they haven't charged me since and I feel like they feel bad I've been civil with them overly nice for the situation I didn't leave them a bad review tell anyone there name etc but at this point I want to flip out. If anyone can help me with this ether online or if you live in the new england area that help would be greatly appreciated.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 345
From: Idaho
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Peddles
Real quick and ill be back.
are 5.13 available for the dana 30?
Ok i think you said 5.13 gears?
Your rpms are on or right about the same as mine with 33s and 4.88s
What brand gears did you get.
First thing id do is verify both axles received the same gear ratio KISS 💋 keep it stupid simple then go from there.
I didnt see mention of lift height assuming TALL wanting 5.13 gears.
For otheres reading. Theres a guy on ebay selling 8.8 bolt in axles with choice of gears
are 5.13 available for the dana 30?
Ok i think you said 5.13 gears?
Your rpms are on or right about the same as mine with 33s and 4.88s
What brand gears did you get.
First thing id do is verify both axles received the same gear ratio KISS 💋 keep it stupid simple then go from there.
I didnt see mention of lift height assuming TALL wanting 5.13 gears.
For otheres reading. Theres a guy on ebay selling 8.8 bolt in axles with choice of gears
Last edited by EvanM; Mar 7, 2021 at 09:01 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I am a little curious about this off center business. How about some pics of what you mean. Also I need pics of your driveline, particularly the pinion portion. Then we can go from there.
QUOTE I figured as much after researching and looking into it more adams driveshaft is trying to help me. It has good information on angles and doing the 8.8 swap. Also I just found out they broke my 242 and replaced it for free with a 231 and lied about it told me it was a 242 and that they didn't know why the wires didn't match to get the light to come in on the dash.what should I do I want to lose my mind on them. I gave them over what other places quoted because they could do it sooner I wish I knew someone or lived where I could work on vehicles.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 345
From: Idaho
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: Peddles
Where are you located?
Sorry your going through this. There aren't many shops id trust to work on my stuff id assume that's across the country aswell as in my area idaho.
The gear issue has my interest as the place to start. Verify both axles are geared the same then dig in from there with drive line angles and tcase issues.
if you run in 4wd on snowy rds alot the 242 is the better tcase. But for a trail rig i feel the 231 is better more slip yoke eliminator options and less to brake in general.
we can help get you through this but are lacking information
Lift heith,
Drive line corrections if any,
Do axles have back lash when you grab the yokes
I honestly don't think you've spent much in parts and might be able to get some labor expenses back from the shop. Be polite when talking to the shop make sure they know that your unhappy with the work they've done and that you don't feel its in your best interests to continue having them try to fix the issues
Post up pictures. Drive lines front side rear under neither shots. Front drive shaft to down pipe clearance. Pictures are worth a trillion words unspoken
Sorry your going through this. There aren't many shops id trust to work on my stuff id assume that's across the country aswell as in my area idaho.
The gear issue has my interest as the place to start. Verify both axles are geared the same then dig in from there with drive line angles and tcase issues.
if you run in 4wd on snowy rds alot the 242 is the better tcase. But for a trail rig i feel the 231 is better more slip yoke eliminator options and less to brake in general.
we can help get you through this but are lacking information
Lift heith,
Drive line corrections if any,
Do axles have back lash when you grab the yokes
I honestly don't think you've spent much in parts and might be able to get some labor expenses back from the shop. Be polite when talking to the shop make sure they know that your unhappy with the work they've done and that you don't feel its in your best interests to continue having them try to fix the issues
Post up pictures. Drive lines front side rear under neither shots. Front drive shaft to down pipe clearance. Pictures are worth a trillion words unspoken
Last edited by EvanM; Mar 8, 2021 at 12:15 PM.
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