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Pinion Angle Question

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Old 01-22-2015, 08:30 AM
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Default Pinion Angle Question

I have a 1999 Sport and I did a zone 3" lift. I have some driveline vibes and just ordered the IRO hack 'n tap. I plan on using a front drive shaft I liberated from another xj to complete the kit.

Will I likely have to shim the rear axle to get a proper pinion angle? If so, does anyone have a guess as to what degree shims I might need? I would like to order them before I start.

Bonus question:
I also ordered an adjustable track bar. My old track bar has a lot rust where it attaches to the frame. Would there be any harm in cutting the old track bar where it bolts to the frame. I just feel like messing with the rusted castle nut in that tight space is going to be a PIA. There is an arrow pointing to where I plan to cut.

Old 01-22-2015, 09:20 AM
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Put the lift on first then measure the angle and see what u need.

I m at 4.5 of lift and I didn't need shims cause I had shackle relocation brackets and that rotated the axle just enough to get perfect angle, lol.
Old 01-22-2015, 09:26 AM
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You will still have to get that castle nut off in order to pull the stud. That hole is tapered, bigger at the bottom and smaller at the top, so it will not pull out of the top once the bolt is cut.

You can always remove the whole bracket, then deal with that nut on the bench, which makes it much easier than under the Jeep in that small space.
Old 01-22-2015, 10:11 AM
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I would guess 2.5 degrees. 4 at most. Will need longer center pins also, of correct diameter (Jegs.com).
Extended shackles will add to pinion angle.
It looks like trackbar bracket is blooming rust and structurally unsound. I would not bother removing the castle nut since the bracket needs replaced.

These are alloy. Steel shims are recommended. Also at Jegs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330873349361?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Old 01-22-2015, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I would guess 2.5 degrees. 4 at most. Will need longer center pins also, of correct diameter (Jegs.com).
Extended shackles will add to pinion angle.
It looks like trackbar bracket is blooming rust and structurally unsound. I would not bother removing the castle nut since the bracket needs replaced.

These are alloy. Steel shims are recommended. Also at Jegs
Thanks for the info. Do you happen to know where I can order a new bracket? Replacing it seems like the right thing to do.

GPXJ thanks for letting me know about the tapered bolt. I had a feeling there would be something like that to keep it from being simple.
Old 01-22-2015, 02:34 PM
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Here you go. This is what you will need.

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rusty-s...unt-xj-zj.html

There are other companies who offer basically the same thing. Good luck with the rust, use a lot of liquid wrench and wire brush as much of the rust off as you can.
Old 01-22-2015, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockhead
Here you go. This is what you will need.

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rusty-s...unt-xj-zj.html

There are other companies who offer basically the same thing. Good luck with the rust, use a lot of liquid wrench and wire brush as much of the rust off as you can.
Just called and changed my order to the track bar "with mount". Thanks
Old 01-22-2015, 05:33 PM
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I would recommend replacing that whole bracket.
Old 01-24-2015, 03:41 AM
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With a three inch lift, you shouldn't have to do a hack n tap or SYE IF YOU DON'T WANT TO. If you are NEVER going to go higher than three inches, shimming the rear axle should take care of the vibration. With the original rear drive shaft (single u joints on both ends) just ensure that the angles of the rear bearing face of the transfer case and the differential pinion bearing face are the same. I emphasized the NEVER because if you think you might go with a higher lift some day, you might as well do the SYE now. Then, with a double cardan u joint drive shaft, you point the rear pinion at the transfer case.
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